Zortrax M200 Duet Conversion
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Put the SD card in your computer and edit config.g in the sys folder.
Uncommenting means remove the colon from the start of the line ;
You mean I remove the micro SD card from the Duetwifi and put it in my computers drive to do that?
It mentioned doing it from the online console, but as mentioned I can't see how.
** I tried doing it that way and my computer couldn't open the files**
I did it in the console…settings/system editor/config.g, and it stopped Pronterface from connecting to the printer. Put it back as was and it worked again.
Bit stuck on what I'm doing here
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You can edit the config.g from within the web interface - no need to remove the sd card. Go to "Settings" then click on the tab "System Editor" and you'll see a list of files, one of which will be your config.g. Click the green pencil icon next to it to edit it. Make the changes and hit "Save Changes" in the bottom right hand corner. DWC will then ask if you want to do a software reset - hit yes. (As it's config'g it only gets read when you first start up or do a reset).
HTH
Ian -
The "Configuration File" tab in DWC has been replaced by "System Editor". I'll update the wiki instructions.
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The "Configuration File" tab in DWC has been replaced by "System Editor". I'll update the wiki instructions.
Thank you.
Problem I'm having is that once I un-comment M552 S1, the Duet will no longer connect via Pronterface. As soon as I put the semi colon back it works again.
Any suggestions there please?
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If you connect via Pronterface, are you then able to send M552 S1 and continue communicating using both Pronterface and WiFi?
Bear in mind that when you click "Apply settings" and accept the invitation to reboot the Duet, the USB port will be closed and then re-created. Pronterface won't reconnect automatically, so you need press Disconnect and then Connect in Pronterface to re-establish the link.
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If you connect via Pronterface, are you then able to send M552 S1 and continue communicating using both Pronterface and WiFi?
Bear in mind that when you click "Apply settings" and accept the invitation to reboot the Duet, the USB port will be closed and then re-created. Pronterface won't reconnect automatically, so you need press Disconnect and then Connect in Pronterface to re-establish the link.
It seems I am connected via the Duet interface, it shows a bed temp that is roughly room temp and can be disconnected and reconnected.
When I open Pronterface and press connect I get:
Connecting…
[ERROR] Could not connect to COM10 at baudrate 115200:
Serial error: could not open port COM10: [Error 2] The system cannot find the file specified.If I send M552 S1 I get:
M552 S1
[ERROR] Printer is not online.Doing my best here but it's way outside my skill set. Spelled out simply would be a great help and thanks in advance.
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I don't think the failure of Pronterface to connect is caused by enabling netwoking. I think it's caused by the USB port being reset when the Duet resets after you apply the new settings.
Which version of Windows are you using? I remember that when I was using Windows 7, I found that after resetting the Duet, Pronterface would refuse to connect because Windows thought the port was still busy. Pressing Disconnect in Pronterface before resetting the Duet avoided the problem. When I forgot to do this, I had to exit and reload Pronterface to get connected again. Sometimes I also had to disconnect and reconnect the USB cable. The problems went away when I upgraded to Windows 10 (I think this is the only benefit I got from the upgrade).
Once you have the web interface working, you shouldn't need to use Pronterface anyway.
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I don't think the failure of Pronterface to connect is caused by enabling netwoking. I think it's caused by the USB port being reset when the Duet resets after you apply the new settings.
Which version of Windows are you using? I remember that when I was using Windows 7, I found that after resetting the Duet, Pronterface would refuse to connect because Windows thought the port was still busy. Pressing Disconnect in Pronterface before resetting the Duet avoided the problem. When I forgot to do this, I had to exit and reload Pronterface to get connected again. Sometimes I also had to disconnect and reconnect the USB cable. The problems went away when I upgraded to Windows 10 (I think this is the only benefit I got from the upgrade).
Once you have the web interface working, you shouldn't need to use Pronterface anyway.
Thanks David.
I am using Windows 7 as it goes, so that might be it.
I'm also now unable to open the interface at all (IP Address 192.168.1.101), and it's all starting to get me down a bit I must admit.
So basically, now that it's set up I don't bother with Pronterface, so I'm doing everything via wifi now?
So I can disconnect the USB cable and turn the power on?
Any reason I can't open the interface? I'm using Opera for a browser, but IE wouldn't open it either.
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If you can't connect with the web interface, go back to using Pronterface so you can see what is reported when you send M552 S1 to start the network. Use Windows Device Manager to check that the Duet USB port has appeared.
If you have a PanelDue with a 7" screen attached, USB power alone is insufficient.
I have seen Windows 7 occasionally disable a USB port. Rebooting Windows gets it back.
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Ok,
It's all connecting with the M552 S1 un commented, so to enter M552 S1 through Pronterface I must first run M552 S0 to disconnect it.
I also exempted http://192.168.1.101 from my browsers ad blocker, not sure if that helped.
It seems I can only open the interface when the Duetwifi is powered up? (told you I was a noob).
So where to now??
I'm now looking at "Configuring RepRapFirmware for a Cartesian printer" but it hardly looks straight forward to me at least.
I'm assuming I now close Pronterface, disconnect the USB, and connect via the interface?
Was there an auto calibration I can run?
Cheers again
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Here's a start…
M111 S0 ; Debug off
M550 ZortraxM200 ; Machine name
M551 Preprap ; Machine password (used for FTP)
M552 S1 ; Enable WiFi
M555 P2 ; Set output to look like Marlin
M575 P1 B57600 S1 ; Comms parameters for PanelDue
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves -
Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.
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Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.
Cheers again.
What would I enter for "firmware compatibility"?
It's got Marlin by default, but wouldn't it be Reprap Firmware?
I pressed "Home" on the paneldue, and both X and Y traveled in the opposite direction they should if they were to operate the Z limit switches.
Would that mean I need to reverse the 2 drives? Which ones please?
As well as that, the configurator describes motors as "M584" when it seems to be "M569" in the config file. Or am I wrong or need to change it to M584?
It all started up on 24v fine by the way.
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Try using https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ to generate your configuration files. One thing it doesn't yet get right is the homez.g and homeall.g files if you use a microswitch for Z homing instead of a Z probe.
And the other thing it doesn't do right is configuring the microstepping. It generates M350 X16 X16 X16 X16 I0 (that's for 1 extruder) when it should be M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1. i.e. it doesn't set microstepping for Y,Z and the extruder(s) but more importantly, it turns microstepping off when the default is on.
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OK, so which firmware setting should I use?
I'll go through page by page, and ask the "for dummies" questions as I go.
I did reverse the X and Y motors as mentioned above, and actually got it to home against the end stop switches…small noob victory!
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Set it to Marlin. Leave your motors at 16x micro stepping then edit your config.g after you have uploaded it and set the I parameter in the M350 line to 1
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Set it to Marlin. Leave your motors at 16x micro stepping then edit your config.g after you have uploaded it and set the I parameter in the M350 line to 1
Thank you.
So I've gone through the configurator and haven't changed much other than the dimensions of my bed, probing points offset, I've made XY probing active high/high end, Z probe at high end.
All other values I've just left as is.
My concern now is the heater probe settings.
I have a standard Zortrax thermistor on the bed with a resistance of 123.5kohm, and an S3D PT100 on the extruder. (I will change the bed to a PT100 later, but want to see it work for now).
Also should I use PID or bang bang for the bed?
The PT100 is connected to RTD1 on the daughter board, and the thermistor is connected to the bed sensor plug on the board near the bed heater terminal block.
I haven't changed any of the offset/jerk/current/etc settings as I'd assume they are set at a reasonable starting point and can be tweaked later as we see how this all goes.
Also, if I go to finish the configuration, it gives me 13 files to download.
Do I delete all the files already on my Duetwifi's SD and replace it with all of these, or just the config.g file?
Bit frustrating as I'm on the other side of the world and have to wait for people in other timezones before I can move on, but I really appreciate (and need) all the assistance.
Cheers again
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The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.
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The configuration tool gives you the option to download a zip file. If you do that, you can upload that zip file via the General tab of the Settings page of DWC, and it will upload all 13 files in one go.
Ok, thank you.
Do I delete the existing files first or will it overwrite them?
Can you help with the other questions regarding settings?
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It will overwrite them.
The only other configuration question I saw in your previous post is whether to use PID or bang bang for the bed heater. I suggest you start with bang bang and switch to PID when you have run auto tuning on the heater.
