Zortrax M200 Duet Conversion



  • Oh forget to say, when i saw your pictures it didn't look like there was a ground connection from your power supply to the chassis probably would be a good idea since its a metal cased printer.



  • @Bobblejot:

    Yep those were the dimensions used for the ultimaker bed, so use your Zortrax dimensions.

    Sorry for your 12mm lead screw i dont know what thread pitch Zortrax are using.

    Do you have a serial number for the printer because you could always download the latest firmware from their site. Then you can get all the original values from the actual firmware as starting point.

    For your limit switches it will probably be

    X axis homes to max
    Y axis homes to min
    Z axis homes to max

    Cheers mate, sorry I just saw this.

    Zortrax keeps their firmware under lock and key, it apparently can't be viewed or whatever.

    If you see my other thread, I'm starting to get there as you'll see.

    Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.

    Please feel free to comment over there, I'll try to keep this thread to the nuts and bolts of the conversion.

    I'll look at an earth strap if there isn't one there somewhere.

    Loving the paneldue, and made a mount that sits it at 45deg right where you can use it, using existing mounting holes.

    Soooooo much better to use than a tiny display with a jog dial right down the bottom where it's a little difficult to view.


  • administrators

    @Corexy:

    Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.

    Check that your M350 command in config.g has parameter I1 not I0. The config tool used to generate I0 by default until very recently.



  • @dc42:

    @Corexy:

    Seems I have to tweak some speeds for that sweet spot where the steppers don't resonate noisily, still pretty green with this sort of thing.

    Check that your M350 command in config.g has parameter I1 not I0. The config tool used to generate I0 by default until very recently.

    Got that.

    To be honest this machine has sat broken for a long time on the floor.

    It seems to be getting happier as I use it. A little grease on the axis' might not go astray either….



  • No problem, its looking good. The firmware can be found at http://support.zortrax.com/downloads/firmware/?printers=m200 al you need is the serial number of your machine.



  • @Bobblejot:

    No problem, its looking good. The firmware can be found at http://support.zortrax.com/downloads/firmware/?printers=m200 al you need is the serial number of your machine.

    Yes but it's a .bin file which I can't seem to open.

    I ran the "search for a program to open this file" function and got nothing.

    I'm pretty crap on computers though…if you PM me I'll give you a serial number if you'd like to have a look.



  • Homing in on a result.

    This cable strain relief might be temporary, as I've got some cable chain on the way and might use it flat across the top of the printer.

    Messing around with a 0.3mm/raft/ABS/S3D print here, and it's going ok.

    Certainly room for improvement and dialing in, but it's off to a decent start.



  • Hi guys! I've seen this topic and i wanted to see your progress. I'm using z-mod (software mod) to use z-suite like an open software. I'm using dual fan mod and i adapted a microswiss hotend for d6 to my m200. My results are real good. Now i can print pla and get a big thin wall without warping or cracking. Can you post some photos of your prints? I'm really interested in comparing a regular slicer to the modded z-suite with a custom profile (there is a facebook page if you want infos).



  • Been busy with work etc, but am just finishing it all off now.

    Its worked fine for a couple of months now, but I just want to finish off all the wiring and print all my bits in the one colour, as well as install my new print bed:

    1/4" cast ally plate with Printbite surface and Keenovo heater (200W, up from the Zortrax's 160W), hopefully it'll work well.

    I'm just going to stay with the thermistor on this one for the heat bed.



  • I am absolutely loving this printer!

    Been too busy to look at it for months, but it's all finished now and working a treat.

    Made some breakthroughs with the jerk/acceleration settings (but some questions coming) that allowed me to fine tune the retraction better.

    By far the best addition other than the Duet/paneldue themselves was the cast ally/keenovo/printbite heated bed. Absolutely lightning fast heat up, perfect heat distribution and awesome print adhesion and release (just PLA at this stage).

    Added Igus cable chain for the wiring, and they sent me a sample of their filament, so I printed up a set of central bearings to replace the crappy 6mm bearings it comes with, and that's all good too.

    Good thing is I have another busted Zortrax sitting there, and a full set of everything used in this printer, as I bought 2 of everything, so I'm good to fit out another with no more money out.



  • Got a couple of tuning questions though…

    I haven't had the best luck with retraction, just couldn't get rid of the blobs/strings with PLA.

    I went through all the test designs on Thingiverse, and it always cam to the same setting. 0.4mm @ 40mm/sec.

    One of the best things I did was clear all the crap I's added in S3D like Z hop, coasting etc. Just switched the lot off including retraction itself, and then just started at the standard profile and tested retraction in upward increments of 0.2mm.

    When it all got set up the jerk was at X600/Y600/E60, and the acceleration was at X1000/Y1000/E1000.

    This where I'm at now (see below) and prints are much cleaner.

    I'm wondering if I can go even harder there, as the machine sounds really happy and there's no shaking or bad noises.

    I don't want to push it too hard, and I print pretty slow as I prefer quality finish to speed, but if I'm wide of the mark I'd like to dial it in.

    Straight cartesian gantry. The central carriage assy would have to be soomething like 400-600gms.

    Any suggestions?

    ; Drives
    M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
    M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
    M569 P2 S0 ; Drive 2 goes backwards
    M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes backwards
    M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation
    M92 X80 Y80 Z800 E119 ; Set steps per mm
    M566 X900 Y900 Z12 E300 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
    M203 X12000 Y12000 Z600 E6000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
    M201 X1500 Y1500 Z20 E1500 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
    M906 X1000 Y1000 Z800 E600 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
    M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout



  • I wouldn't change anything much. Your motor currents look a bit on the low side for the size of the printer but I've no idea what your motors are rated at. 85% of the motor's maximum current is what DC seems to recommend.

    Maybe use 600 jerk but try it and see . When you do diagonal infill and as you get close to the corner (so small rapid moves), does it shake about or look in any way alarming? If no then leave well alone. If yes, then reduce the acceleration from 1500 to 1200. Other than that, play around with the slicer settings for actual print speeds. I generally do infill faster than solid layers, inner perimeter faster than outer perimeter, small perimeters really slow, first layer slower than the rest etc. Contrary to popular thinking, I tend to get better results printer faster - say around 80 to 90 mm/sec but try it and see.

    Regarding retraction, I use really fast speed for non print moves - like 350mm/sec which helps. My thinking is that PLA tends to ooze on it's own without any help from the extruder, so the less time it has to ooze, the better. Anyway, it works for me and enables me to use less retraction.

    Just my twopence worth….......

    Edit - Oh and I print PLA at (or even below) the low end of what is recommended. That too helps with blobs. Print a tower say 20mm square and alter the temperature every 10mm or so by 5 degrees C. Observe the printer and look out for any signs of under extrusion or the extruder struggling. Pick the lowest temperature that gives the best finish. Youmay need to up it a bit if you subsequently up the print speed.



  • Could you share your config.g please? I'm trying to convert from a Wanhao Duplicator 6



  • Way late to the game on this one. I've done a M200 conversion, sharing my config.g as I haven't had the time to read through all 99 posts on this thread (trying to finish an M300 mod by next weekend for MakerFaire PDX). Welcome any input if I've done something wrong. Hope it helps if you're having troubles.

    I swapped hotend to a Slice Engineering Mosquito keeping the extruder, added a BLtouch for leveling and z-stop, removed the waffle board and added PEI (Buildtak Flexplate is going on it today).

    Tinkerz

    0_1536446140699_config-clean.g


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