Problems with LED and Cooling Fan on Smart effector
Will change it in config when print is finished..
And yes..i can confirm that the 3 Corner LED are flickering
Put back the Print fan on FAN_0 dont even start
Tried a M106 P0 S255 didnt start
and its activated in the s3d gcode starts at layer 2
I'm wondering whether you have a power supply problem, either in general power to the Duet or in the fan power supply circuit in particular. Is the bed heater powered from the same power supply? If so then the flickering could be the bed heater PWM affecting the supply voltage. Does the flickering stop if you turn the bed heater off?
Please check that the screws in the VIN terminal block are still tight.
ok…found something...plugged the Hotend Fan on always on and the flickering was gone...for a moment..measured the amps the board want with both heaters on (8.7A) and while i had the 12V Gnd in my hand the flickering starts again..took a closer look and the Gnd on the screw terminal was slightly darker..srews were still tight and i uses 1,5mm² cables ( like uses in house installations. Whats the current rating of the screw terminals? shortend the cables
But still have the Prob with the print fan.. didnt start with a M106 P0 S255
Same if i plug the fan into Fan_2 Port.. M106 P2 S255 dont work..fan only works if i use a always_on port
maybe i should think about a 24V rebuild or at least a mosfet for the bed heater…would remove alot of current from the Vin terminals
The VIN terminals are rated to 32A AFAIR. But to safely pass high currents through terminal blocks, you need to crimp ferrules (supplied with the Duet) on to the cables.
Blackening of the terminal blocks is a sure sign of a bad connection. I think you will find that the screw is loose, unless it has seized in place due to overheating.
ferrules would make the contact resistance higher on the NYM-J, 3 x 1.5 mm² that i used. its one pure copper cable a tin plated ferrule would make it worse…cable is rated for 16A at 220V ..anyway..hard to tell how tight the screw was before it..will check the terminal again next week..maybe i have to solder a new screw terminal, that fit.
Any idea why i cant start that print fan on FAN_1 or Fan_2?
Your config.g file has thermostatic mode enabled on fan 1 and fan 2. You need to cancel thermostatic mode before you can control the fan directly.
thats not the problem…
Fan_1 is the Hotend Fan..termostatic mode and works...fan starts at 45° hotend temp
I tried the print fan on Fan_0 and Fan_2 so both modes..and on both fan ports it dont react on a M106 Px S255 and the fan is ok because it works on a "always_on port"
Any chance to detect whats going wrong? for me its the the board problem…
my Fan Section in the moment.
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
If i put the part fan on P1 it starts at 45° but thats not what i want
changes fans on port over and over..FAN_0 and FAN_2 are DEAD..only Fan_1 work as intendend and i can control it via the M106
Question: how does the board or the slicer know which fan port is used for Hotend and wich is for the part fan?
If fan0 and fan2 outputs never work, the mosfets controlling them are probably damaged. This happens if you short the outputs, and sometimes if you connect a fan with the red and black wires the wrong way round (depending on the fan).
The firmware doesn't know which fan output you use for the hot end fan. It's up to you either to use an always-on fan output, or to set one of the fan outputs to thermostatic control. Fan 1 is normally used for this purpose. By default fan 0 is used for the print cooling fan, but you can change that using the F parameter in your M563 tool definition command(s) in config.g.
hmm…as i didnt touched the board nor the fans before that problem occurs there must be broken mosefets...really trange..all taht happens after i changed from bang bang mode to PID and made that heater calibrations. before that all works like charm..Hotend heater on FAN_2 and part fan on FAN_0
so i guess i have to contact the seller?(reprapworld)
uses the "always_on" port as hotend fan and mapped the tool with a F1 the Fan_1 to the part fan..