doesnt matter if you only use one I have a flying extruder setup here and took a right handed..
all depends on the setup..or on a multimaterial printer if you want a mirrored extruder setup.

The extruders are sold without motor, because you have to decide what you need.
More torque or is a pancake motor sufficient?

I got my Anycubic Delta for Christmas last year. Honestly, there's nothing left of the Anycubic except for a few screws.
Meanwhile the frame is 1m high and has a print bed of 300mm.
Flying Extruder with Bondtech, DuetWifi Board, Smart effector, DIY Magnetic Rods.

I love working on it.

For an Answer in the german reprap forum i made a little testprint.
60x60x5mm 20 bottom and top layer so no infill. my printer startet as a cheap anycubic Kossel Pulley..and so far the DuetWifi with the Smart effector was the best investment.

in the end i had 300mm/s printspeed and 5000mm/s² acceleration.

Youtube

at 5:30 the first Bowdenclip came loose what a great board.

just installed the beta 2 today and the Script errors are gone if i want to add a new temp button

You misunderstood something. Its not a smart extruder...its a smart effector.
ans Thers no V6 extruder.. theres a E3D Titan Extruder and a E3D V6 Hotend.
If its the Hotend, thats all you need..on the smart effector is a e3d compatible heatsink, so you will need the heatblock, heatbreak, nozzle and thermistor from your old setup.
And take a look at a Titan clone..the anycubic Extruder is crap.
For the smart effector you will need a crimp tool
Next..if you have a heated bed i would recommend a MOSFET ( 12-24V) or a SSR ( 230V heated bed) even if the duet is rated for 11 Amps i saw already several burned connectors ( here in forum and on my own board)

What else you need? carbon rods in the needed lenght..maybe haydn or just DIY. and the steel balls.

For sure, Huntleys Mag arms are expensive...but why dont build some yourself? some 6-8mm carbon rod..I used steel balls at the rods and magnets at the carrier and smart effector..constructing some 45° magnet holders is don e in some minutes. Costs me about 15-20€ and some time. ( I used nylon coated 12mm countersunk magnets)

Dont use the 7 factors Calibration. It will change, as you can see, the Rod lenght. it changes from Diagonal 224.846 to Diagonal 219.065 and with each change there the dimensions of your whole print will change.
Solution: use the 6 factor Calibration because it will leave the Rod lenght untouched.
Calibratting a Delta

even if im not Danal...

You dont need a new extruder motor..my old anycubic motor still works great even with a bondtech extruder now

connecting it should not be a problem. Reeds are simple switches...but..will they have always a correct trigger point?
saw already so many threads in printer forums about optical..mechanical..hall endstops and in the end most user get back to the good old switches because they are not affected by the earth magnetic field..how bright the sun shines..they simply works..

ok..solved the Homing Problem...checked it several times that i choosed the active high endstops but in config.g they were active low...
Holy sh?* my first config after i bought the duet wifi was so easy compared to bring my Delta back to live now

FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.0 ELECTRONICS: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later FIRMWARE_DATE: 2020-01-03b3

strange..schouldnt it be something with RC3? it was the last version..anyway...the homing prob is very odd...because if it occours i have to turn off the printer and sometimes it works after that cold reset

that really drives me crazy..used the config tool over and over again...finally i got the 2 PT1000 back to work...even had one Calibration via G32..put the new numbers into my M665 and M666 but now my Homing dont work...he runs into endstops...lower 10mm and makes a 2nd run..goes up into endstops and stops there..the dont lower again...

; homedelta.g
; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sun Mar 08 2020 17:21:54 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Normalzeit)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H1 X380 Y380 Z380 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 H2 X-10 Y-10 Z-10 F1800 ; go down a few mm
G1 H1 X20 Y20 Z20 F360 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 Z-30 F6000 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; move X+Y to the centre
with that homedelta it worked before but not anymore...and because homing dont work i get this error message
G28
Error: G0/G1: target position not reachable from current position

same with g32
G32
Error: G0/G1: target position not reachable from current position

I had a defective SD card and unfortunately due to a PC change no backup. So I had to reset my Delta Printer and changed to the new firmware. I used the Config Tool. DuetWifi and SW 3.0. The two PT1000 sensors show wrong ( what worked fine under the 2.x. Homing does not work anymore ( goes to the endstops and instead of shutting down, it stops at the switched endstops. It is not possible to create a reasonable config.g with this tool. Z-Endstop is grayed out and cannot be selected. The parameters for the sizes don't fit either ( e.g. printable area maximum 105mm and that where I have a 300mm print bed). The config is hardly suitable as a first clue.

0:/sys/config.g
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sun Mar 08 2020 13:43:36 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Normalzeit)

; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"My Printer" ; set printer name
M665 R175 L386 B145 H380 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them

; Network
M552 S1 ; enable network
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X160.00 Y160.00 Z160.00 E450.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z1200.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z18000.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z1000.00 E1000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; set minimum Z

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y1 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop
;M574 Z1 S1 P"null" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin null
M574 Z1 S1 P"zstop"

; Z-Probe
M558 P5 R0.4 C"zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" H5 F1200 T6000 ; set Z probe type to effector and the dive height + speeds
M558 H30 ;*** Remove this line after delta calibration has been done and new delta parameters have been saved
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R85 S20 ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit

; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S1 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined

My Printer
Send code...
Status
Idle
Mode: FFF
Tool Position
X
0.0
Y
0.0
Z
380.00
Extruder Drives
Drive 0
0.0
Speeds
Requested Speed
0 mm/s
Top Speed
0 mm/s
Sensors
Vin
24.3 V
MCU Temperature
30.1 C
Z-Probe
0
Tools
Extra
Control All
Tool Heater Current Active Standby
Tool 0
T0 - Load Filament Heater 1
off 168.9 C
0
0
Bed Heater 0
off 169.4 C
0
0
Temperature Chart
System Directory

; homedelta.g
; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sun Mar 08 2020 13:45:33 GMT+0100 (Mitteleuropäische Normalzeit)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H1 X265 Y265 Z265 F1800 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 H2 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F1800 ; go down a few mm
G1 H1 X10 Y10 Z10 F360 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
G1 Z-15 F6000 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; move X+Y to the centre

Then i wanted to switch back to a 2.x version..but that dont work..updated it and its still the 3.0 version..

any hints for me?

just tried again..downloaded the latest version..uploaded it to the printer...started the update and got this
M997 S0
Error: In-application programming binary "Duet2CombinedIAP.bin" not found

And do you still have the crappy screws in the Carrier that hits the endstops? If yes...throw them away..they have slop and it seems that regualry not hitt the switch well and without a proper endstop setting sometimes there will be a good calibration..and sometimes not. and get new endstops...the anycubic gets pressed by a simple piece of metal...too soft...get some cheap switches with a roller at the end of the switch.

I use a airbrush nozzle in my Delta for several month now and dont want to miss it..I use 0.3mm... sure..large prints takes longer..but i also print lots of scenery and tabletop minis and hmm hard to describe...its more on the point with airbrush nozzle compared to a normal nozzle..which is more like ironing the print. Details are better with the Aitbrush nozzle...where with a 0.4 normal nozzle my layerwidth is about 0.45 its on the 0.3 airbrush nozzle 0.32..
So..whoever print more detailed should try it

beside....1350€ is alot...have a similar build and all together its about 700-800€

Corner

Rails

Extrusions from Motedis
Smart effecor...duet Wifi..
Stepper from stepperonline

ok..many of the small parts like srews etc i had already at home. Beside its quite nice to improve the design...for example build it upside down with steppers on top so you can build it with a smaller footprint

Thx for the link...unfortunatly only in the UK it seems...so..quite expensive..for less i´ll try the whole Hotend from Trianglelabs...will report if its a 100% fit

the prob is..you cant get the Smart effector hot end alone..from time to time i want to print PLA..now i use a titan full metal heatbreak..works flawless with Petg and everthing what need higher print temps...but with some PLA brands i´ve got probs. But 60€ for a complete 2nd effector unit is too much..so i just prep a 2nd hotend..with inliner for PLA

Hi, anyone tried this hotend from Triangle Labs?

Looks like it could be compatible to the smart effector.