IR Probe improvements (e.g. selectable sensitivity ) ?
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Tried to draw this to scale in geometrical optics and yes the far back reflection alignes almost 1to 1 with the near led.
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Hope you don't mind me jumping in here but just wanted to say that I've started commissioning my printer, complete with David's probe. I have 6mm glass on top of black painted aluminium but the glass is sandblasted. This is the first time I've used the probe so I just followed David's instructions and it's worked "straight out of the box". I'm getting a trigger height of 1.47mm which seems to be repeatable (but it's early days yet). Maybe the sandblasting is doing the trick?
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Yes this would surely help; you mean the backside only is sandblasted. Not the front side.
I received my Buildtak yesterday applied it to the glass and it works like a charm it's black and works at about 2.2 mm. Perfect adhesion right from the start. The Duetwifi and sensor are so easy to learn. I am having a lot of pleasure using it!!!Since it is my first printer. I am going through the learning process right now. I am getting 5 perfect PLA layers but I think I need blowers because after that the whole top surface gets so soft (heat from the underlayers). I tried with a handheld blower but then I had hadened curled corners on overhangs and my head crased into them….. Not sure what to do next.. (sry it's out of topic)
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Hi sga,
Nope, it's the top side that's sand blasted (and also "Brite Guard" coated). It's experimental and I haven't yet tried it but if it works, I may be able to print directly on to the (heated) glass without any tape, glue, paste, or other sticky stuff. The surface finish is almost smooth - a bit like the very finest abrasive paper that one can buy - the sort of stuff used between coats of varnish is that means anything to you. The glass just looks opaque like it's been etched but not rough.
If it doesn't work, I can always resort to some other method and/or turn the glass over. I've got 3 pieces of glass so I could potentially have 6 different pre-prepared print surfaces.
It is normal to use print cooling fans with pla but I've found it only necessary with small objects. Larger objects seem to have enough time to set before the next layer gets printed. You could try printing more slowly. I have my Slicer set so that the minimum layer time is 20 seconds. What then happens is that if a layer would normally take say 10 seconds, then the printer will slow down by about 50% so that it always takes 20 seconds to print. If you have no fan, you could experiment with that setting,
Sorry we've gone off topic.
Ian
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Interesting, I guess that you won t have adhesion problems. Or maybe too much of it… let us know, it would be very intersting to know how well it works.
Yes small part-no fans is certainly the problem I think. The layer to layer is too quick to properly set. Plus they get a lot of convection/radiation from the hotend... -
Some time go I tried 4mm glass that was ground on one side. With the ground side up, adhesion was terrible, whereas I often print PLA on plain glass with no problems. With the ground side down, the IR sensor wouldn't work.
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Some people swear by it (sandblasted glass that is) I'll let you know how I get on. I haven't tried printing on plain glass - it's just that the instructions for my original RRP Mendel recommended Kapton tape and I've become fairly proficient at fitting it, so I've carried on. That's with a 200mm square bed and as the new one is 400mm square, I think I'll need to do something different.
I tried your probe with ground side up and ground side down. The trigger height is different but it works OK for me. Maybe it's the extra thickness (mine is 6mm)??
