Heater Woes and headaches



  • Heater Error problems and confusion.
    Howdy again, I've got the replacement smart effector and its working well now so that is a good thing. But even as before I cannot for the life of me to get the hot end heater working. I'm on a 12v power supply. I've tried new thermistor and a new premium E3d heater cartridge 12v 30w and re wired the 6 molex plug again and it still shows that I'm heating up too slow. I've tried both E0 and E1 plugs in the main duet wifi board and it still shows the error. I've tried the following as well:

    11:32:14 AM
    Auto tune cancelled because temperature is not increasing
    11:31:37 AM
    Auto tune phase 1, heater on
    11:31:32 AM
    M303 H1 S240
    Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended
    11:31:02 AM
    M307 H0 D30
    11:28:08 AM
    Auto tune cancelled because temperature is not increasing
    11:27:31 AM
    Auto tune phase 1, heater on
    11:27:26 AM
    M303 H1 S240
    Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended
    11:25:19 AM
    M307 H#
    Heater 0 model: gain 90.0, time constant 700.0, dead time 10.0, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode bang-bang, inverted no, frequency default.

    My config file is here. I'm running the newest firmware. I do see the light try and come on with the board but then shuts off when I get the error.

    Heaters
    M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
    M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
    M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
    M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

    ; Fans
    M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
    M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
    M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

    ; Tools
    M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
    G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
    G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

    ; Automatic power saving
    M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss

    ; Custom settings are not configured

    ; Miscellaneous
    M501 ; Load saved parameters from non-volatile memory

    Any ideas on what is wrong. I used the RRF config tool and I again must be missing something. I'm getting closer but still so far away.

    Thanks for looking and any help is awesome.
    Bill in colorado



  • And here is my H1 values
    M307 H1
    Heater 1 model: gain 340.0, time constant 140.0, dead time 5.5, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
    Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P13.4, I0.482, D51.4
    Computed PID parameters for load change: P13.4


  • administrators

    I suggest you disconnect the extruder heater wires from the Duet and use a multimeter to measure the resistance between them. You should be able to measure the cartridge resistance as listed here https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s70. If instead there is no continuity between the wires, use your multimeter to pin down the broken connection.



  • Ok can I assume that I can test from the duet board 1st from the bottom of the board (below the terminal block) on the + and - that I should get a complete circuit? (sorry about the basic question.) If I don't and the wires show a complete circuit could I have a problem with my connection with the block?

    Thank again soo much,
    Bill in colorado


  • administrators

    What I meant was that you can disconnect the heater wires form the Duet E0 heater terminal block, then measure the resistance between the wires. But as long as the power is off, you should also get the right reading if you leave the wires connected and measure the resistance between them either on the back of the Duet or between the two screws in the terminal block.



  • Ok we are heating, after some probing the soldering job on the duet board was poor on the terminal block, on the negative side of E0. I'm now heating the end and onto some other calibration stuff. (At least my wiring was ok, so I'm not super down on myself;)

    Thanks sooo much for all of your help, because without it my delta would of been sold by now. My hope now is to get a print and go from there.

    You guys are awesome.
    Bill in colorado


  • administrators

    I'm sorry to hear that the soldering on your Duet was sub-standard. Is it a genuine UK-manufactured one?



  • I'm assuming yes since I got it from Filastruder, I wanted to keep the $$ with the folks that helped developed it and not a cheap clone.

    Again much thanks,
    Bill in colorado


  • administrators

    Bill, thanks for your support!


 

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