Just sharing Lessons I've learned over the last year or so.....



  • Hey Guys! I'm always asking for help, and as I finished a new custom machine yesterday, I'm feeling pretty proud, and thankful for all of Y'all and the help you give so freely.... I wanted to share a few things that I've learned, that hopefully might help someone else who's fighting a pesky problem, or contemplating taking an "ok" machine to the next level.... I'm a machinist, and I make all sorts of plates and brackets for my different machines.. I've personally found that a nice thick Z plate like 1/4" (or 6.4mm) is more than sufficient for a Z plate. With 50 Lbs on a 500MM x 500MM plate, there is almost imperceptible deflection (using a mitutoyo guage). On top of the Z plate, I use 8 stand offs (1/4-20 nuts work fine) and I use a 3mm aircraft grade aluminum plate for the build surface. I adhere my 750 watt Keenovo 120v silicone heater to the bottom of this plate. The benefit is that you get almost instantaneous heat penetration, and it's easily replaceable if you ever need to. I have one bed with a Borosilicate glass top for smooth prints that require glass. For the rest, I use a magnetic sheet, and a PEI Powder coated Spring steel sheet from TheKKIINNGG on ebay. (I've never met him, just swear by his products, as do anyone else who's bought from him) ....As I've been building machines for people, I've learned that 99% of 3D printers come from the manufacturer in about a 50% complete state. I know that for every person you talk to about a problem, you'll find one that swears their $89 China i3 clone prints better than a prusa, but from experience, I've found that even $2000 machines need upgrades, and the single greatest upgrades that can be done are: 120V heat Bed, E3d V6 hotend (I know there are many others that are good, but this seems to be the magic bullet hot end for people who are ready to give up on their machine) Flexible PEI Powder Coated build plate, BL-Touch probe over all inductive makes and models, Bondtech BMG Extruder is GOLDEN!!!! (whether clone, or BT Factory supplied) Even the ones I print from thingiverse seem to cure all ailments.... A duet is of course on that list. (I used to be a Rambo head.. I've learned to love duet now) and lastly.... Wherever possible, use linear rails if possible.... They only make a great machine even better....

    This is all opinion, but based on my stable of 9 printers, and about 40 "mail it to me and I'll send it back working" customers. I only repair CNC, Laser and 3D printers in the "off season", so I'm not soliciting new customers... I'm far from an expert. I do it out of love for the hobby (though believe it or not, I use my machines to make a living)... I just have received so much help from those in the 3D community, that I am always eager to spread the "printing Flu" wherever I can. I seem to specialize in helping "old timers" with limited computer skills get up and going... I also teach a bit at the middle school, and high school. (basically learning here and on my many facebook groups, and passing the info on). I've been very thankful for @dc42 , and also Tim from Filastruder. What customer service! ....And anyone else who's helped out, Thank you immensely!

    Here's the FT-5 Duet 2 Wifi build I did..... Everything was going to hell until I went with the Duet... Changed everything! It's been a long hard battle to dial it in, as I was a new reprap user, but I finally have it acting like it should!!! 🙂0_1550468837191_2019-02-18 00.46.27.jpg


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