JGAURORA A8 conversion to Duet Wifi and 5i Panel Duet

AMPMAKER

Has any one done a conversion of this printer?
I am converting it because the Aurora printer has enclosed print space and a
Large Z axis ball screw. The board and screen are garbage in it.

I have done all the hard wire conversion, and when testing the homing I get no response.
No stepper movement. How do I go about config the new parameters?

Mark

AMPMAKER

I hard wired all the motors, five in all two extruder motors. Optical limit switches and heaters ect.
I also have a Panel Duet 5i. I get no response from the panel, but I guess that is because I have not configured
and uploaded the new parameters. Still new to setting this up so should the old Config.g file be saved before
loading a new one?

Mark

whosrdaddy

Hi Ampmaker,
You can edit/save config.g from the web interface (DWC).
To activate the new settings, you must restart the board (just press the reset button on the web interface)

droftarts

Start simply: commissioning is a process, it can't be done all at once, and is unavoidable. Done right you'll end up with a reliable machine, and understand what makes it tick.

Start with a bare board, connect one thing to the board, test it. If you connect everything at once you'll be chasing you tail trying to work out why something isn't working. I haven't seen anyone else mention the JGAURORA A8, so I doubt there is a ready-made config for it. I generally do commissioning in this order, turning off the printer between connecting wiring:

Connect via USB, update all firmware as necessary
Get networking working
Use https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/ to get a basic configuration
Endstops (can be tested powered from USB)
Temperature sensors (can also be tested on USB power, usually)
connect PSU power, check voltages with voltmeter
X, Y, Z and extruder motors (each motor individually)
Bed probe (if used)
Test homing
Hot end heater, calibrate extruder
Bed heater
Usually run a test print at this point
Other ancillaries (filament monitors etc)
External panels/screens

Expect to have to tweak your config/homing macros/etc with each one. Guides for each of these are here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Step_by_step_guide
The Gcode dictionary https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode will help you understand the parameters in your config.
Probably no great need to save the config on the SD card; it's a generic one.

Ian

AMPMAKER

Thank you,

I will start on this tomorrow as it is late here now.

Mark

AMPMAKER

I have been able to move the X and Y Axis in the correct direction and amount.
The Z axis has the wrong step amount and moves about 25 mm when asked to move 5.
It was set up with 16 micro steps and I have a 5 mm per turn ball screw. Some how my
numbers are not right. Where is this adjusted?

The optical home switches do not trigger anything, set on either active high or active low.
I think they maybe a 5v switch. I measured the output on the old board and it came up to 5v.
These are encased in plastic so is there any way to add a resistor? Or should I replace them?

That is as far as I have gotten.
Mark

Danal

@AMPMAKER said in JGAURORA A8 conversion to Duet Wifi and 5i Panel Duet:

It was set up with 16 micro steps and I have a 5 mm per turn ball screw. Some how my
numbers are not right. Where is this adjusted?

Adjust M92. To test/verify, you can enter M92 commands in the command line in the web interface and it takes effect immediately. Once you have it working, you can make the same adjustment it in config.g so it will be consistent when rebooted.

Example from one of my printers:

; Drives
M569 P0 S1                        ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1                        ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1                        ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0                        ; Drive 3 goes reverse (Bondtech Extruder)
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 U16 I1           ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X200 Y200 Z200  E415           ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1200  Y1200  Z1200 E1200      ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E1200      ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X4000  Y4000  Z4000 E2000      ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1200  Y1200  Z1200 E1800 I30  ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent.  DE 2018 02 02
M84 S30                           ; Set idle timeout

Change this in config.sys:
M92 X200 Y200 Z200 E415 ; Set steps per mm

And, when using the web command line, it is only required to specify what you are changing, like

M92 Zxxx

AMPMAKER

Awesome, That was the easy way. My math was way off as well.
16 micro steps x 200 = 3200 / 5 (mm pitch) = 640

Thanks, On to fixing the limit switches.

Mark

dc42

Can you post photos of the limit switches?

AMPMAKER

These are OMRON EE-SX674A Optical Swt.jpg
I have used similar sensors on CNC machines and Automation machines with no issues. Although most are 5v.

After many tries to get this working, I replaced them with Micro Switches.
I have set the command M574 S0 , but when I hit the homing it moves in the opposite direction for about 10 mm.
Is this a default setting? When I looked at the homing codes they look correct? But no Negative movement towards the end stops???

; homex.g
; called to home the X axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.0.4 on Wed Oct 02 2019 15:21:12 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 S1 X-365 F1800 ; move quickly to X axis endstop and stop there (first pass)
G1 X5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 S1 X-365 F360 ; move slowly to X axis endstop once more (second pass)
G1 Z-5 F6000 S2 ; lower Z again
G90 ; absolute positioning

AMPMAKER

Why do end stops hits still say " Yes " when they are not hit?

droftarts

Sounds like your switches are inverted, or there’s a wiring issue, or your config isn’t right. It’s seeng the switch as triggered, which is why the carriage is moving away from it. If you hold down the switch, does it change state? Check in DWC or by sending M119.
See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches#Section_Testing_endstop_switches_using_the_web_interface

Ian

AMPMAKER

Yes, I had wired them NO. Changed them to NC. They work properly now. It made no difference setting
it active high or low. Strange they would not work in NO mode. The Optical switches where most likely a NPN switch's or NO.

I had all the motors running perfect before I changed the limit switches and now
the Y axis is dragging along, missing steps. This has been a very troublesome build.
The Y axis motor seemed to just short out, just sitting idle. Changed it out with a spare.
Works again.

I am using the micro switch for Z stop, but plan to use a probe what is the correct probe to
use with this board? Do I need to change the set-up to run with a switch for now?

Mark

Monroe07

@ampmaker Don't mean to revive an old thread, but I'm just curious if you were able to get your JGAurora A8 completed and printing successfully. I'm doing a conversion/upgrade and am really only keeping the movement mechanics intact and If your up to it, would like to chat about problems you had/settings you used to get it up and running sucessfully. I'd like to learn from any issues you had hahaha. Drop me a line if you're interested in chatting!
-Kyle