Duet maestro not connecting to DWC or being recognised by PC
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when i touch it, its really warm. but there is no visible damage
i dont have any smd regulators though to replace it
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With a little luck thats all the damage, as a result of the short circuit, but hard to tell before removing the damaged regulator and supplying 3.3v (150-200mA) from an external supply.
If you don't have any local connections that can assist, maybe this can help - although with the world grinding to a halt, it may take a while either way.
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thanks, but i really want to be sure of the problem before i replace any parts, is there any way i can measure the voltage to see errors on the pins?
the part num: C118ME 61-33
I cant find any schematics of the pins... -
The 3.3v light is off - so the part isn't working. (or possibly any of the other parts needing 3.3v, only thing you can try is removing the SD card)
Schematics and kicad files https://github.com/T3P3/Duet/tree/master/Duet2/Duet2Maestro_v1.0
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oh thanks, i can confirm, 3,3 isnt on the output.
so that is one issue, the board also cant connect to internet, do you think anything else is damaged?
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@NEVER-LUCKY said in Duet maestro not connecting to DWC or being recognised by PC:
do you think anything else is damaged?
As i said, its hard to tell up front.
If you can figure out where the connection to the heatsink went, it may help give an educated guess, but thats about it.
If the heatsink was shorted to ground, odds are just the regulator is done for. If the heatsink was shorted to +12/24v odds are you'll have more damage on your hands (cpu/wifi/sd card).
If nothing else is getting hot I might be inclined to snip off the 3.3v leg (or remove U2 properly) and supplying 3.3v from some external source.
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@NEVER-LUCKY processor, SD card and probably network run off 3.3V, so nothing will work without it!
Ian
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alright, ill supply 3,3v from an MCU on the output pin of the ic, is that a good idea?
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@NEVER-LUCKY said in Duet maestro not connecting to DWC or being recognised by PC:
alright, ill supply 3,3v from an MCU on the output pin of the ic, is that a good idea?
from an MCU? you can use the 3.3v from say an arduino or ftdi usb cable and connect it to a 3.3v pin on the meaestro to test - but you need to get the voltage from a power rail, not a MCU as such; and feed it to the power rail on the duet after removing or otherwise disconnecting the faulty regulator.
(and of course connect the grounds together othwerise no current will flow)
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so is it safe to connect the 3,3 and gnd form an ftdi to the gnd and 3,3 pins on the duet regulator ?
oh you said after removing the regulator
sry
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so what im thinking of doing is: i cut the IC pins all of them, and then solder the 3,3 and gnd from the ftdi on the board. is that fine ?
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The safe method is to use a current limited power supply; but yeah, I'd use an ftdi in a pinch - after - snipping off the 3.3v leg of the regulator (a flush side cutter, flush side down to the pcb so any forces isn't acting to pull up on one pad, but spread the load across all the others - but its not without risk
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@NEVER-LUCKY said in Duet maestro not connecting to DWC or being recognised by PC:
so what im thinking of doing is: i cut the IC pins all of them, and then solder the 3,3 and gnd from the ftdi on the board. is that fine ?
I'd start by just the 3.3v pin, if the it no longer gets hot the others can be left to reduce risk of damage to the board.
and yes, it'd be fine under the assumption there is no other damage to the cpu, wifi or sd card among other things.
Edit: Although you can simply use wires to connect to any pin labled ground and 3.3v on the wiring diagram to see if it works.
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Also if you have a meter, use it to measure the resistance between ground and 3.3v after taking the defective 3.3v regulator out of the equation. If there is still a short, then you'll need some serious repairs.
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wow, 3,3 and gnd seem to be connected, i did a continuity test
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3,3 supply doesnt work... instead it just gets shorted.
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I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. I think you have a short between one of the heater wires and the hot end metalwork, possibly inside the heater cartridge. Sadly this has caused VIN to be connected to +3.3V when your +3.3V wire touched the metalwork, which has caused components powered from +3.3V to fail.
Shorts between heater wires and the hot end metalwork are not uncommon, that's why we protect the thermistor connections against shorts to VIN.
If you are unlucky, multiple components will have failed and the board will be beyond repair. If you are lucky, only one or two components will have failed. The most likely to have failed are the SD card and the W5500 Ethernet chip. So remove the SD card, then apply USB power and see if the green 3.3V LED lights up. If it doesn't, check whether the W5500 or main processor or any other chips are getting hot.
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i removed the sd card and the green led doesnt light up.
no other component gets hot.
the 3,3v regulator U2, i have cut the 3,3v pin to solder an external power source but when i measured between gnd and the pin, it was shorted and my external source got super hot, so i removed that. -
as soon as the vcc crimp of the sensor hit the hotend, the printer disconected.
the crimp didnt stay on the hotend, it just made contact for less a second and fell away from it. -
is there anything else i can try?
