How to remap tool heater connection from E0 to E1

[dc42]

Please confirm which Duet you are using. If it's a Maestro then it has 4 thermistor connectors in total, so please make sure you have selected the right one.

[edjrwinnt]

I tried the one right next to the one that was working for E0 and the third one that is close, diagonally from E0 that worked. I have a Maestro.

[dc42]

It's the one labelled E1 Temp, next to E0 temp that you were using before. the third one in that area is labelled C Temp.

You can use the E0 Temp connector instead if you add parameter X1 to your M305 P2 command.

BTW that M305 P2 command is probably wrong because the B4725 parameter is normally used with a C parameter too, to model the hot end thermistors shipped by E3D.

[edjrwinnt]

After connecting the thermistor to E0 again, I added X1 to M305 P2 and it now has a reading of room temperature. However when I go to heat it up it will not heat and I get the heating too slowly error. I did change B4725 to B4138 like I had before.

[edjrwinnt]

Here is my whole config.sys file now with the changes to use the E0 thermistor port and the hotend connected to the second heater, E1:

; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 2.03)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v2.1.8 on Sun Feb 23 2020 13:06:27 GMT-0500 (Eastern Standard Time)

; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"HEVO" ; set printer name

M669 K1 ; select CoreXY mode
M918 P1 E4 F2000000 ; configure direct-connect display

; Network
M552 P192.168.11.111 S1 ; enable network and set IP address
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; set netmask
M554 P192.168.11.111 ; set gateway
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P3 S1 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3 ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E843.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z300.00 E600.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min), was 720 for x & y
M203 X9000.00 Y9000.00 Z1800.00 E1800.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1800.00 Y1800.00 Z100.00 E9000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2), was 2500 for x & y
M906 X950 Y950 Z800 E950 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X300 Y300 Z375 S0 ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; set active high endstops
M574 Z1 S2 ; set endstops controlled by probe

; Z-Probe
M558 P9 H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20 ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 R2200 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C
M305 P2 T100000 B4725 R2200 X0 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H2 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H2 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

M501 ; added by ed jr 3/7/2020

; Custom settings are not defined

[dc42]

Are you saying that it's not heating up at all? Does the red LED next to the E1 Heat output light up when you select tool 0 and command it to heat up?

Given that you couldn't make it work on E0 output either, it sounds to me that either the heater cartridge or the wiring is faulty.

[edjrwinnt]

I'm on my second heater cartridge. The first one was a new 24V one from E3D and the second one is a Trianglelab one. There is not much print time on either and the first one from E3d went bad.

I noticed that the wire connectors on my thermistor plug to the board was loose. I pressed the connectors in tight but I did not rewire the plug like I should have. I will do that later. It started working again but now it won't go over 211 degrees celsius. I have my print set for 225 and it is stuck at 210 or 211 and it has not timed out with an error surprisingly. I did not change the heater timeout either. It finally did give an heater fault error after a few minutes of not getting up to temp.

I did not check the led but I will the next time. I would like to get the heater remapped to E1 port on the board if possible to eliminate that the E0 port is bad. I don't understand why I had one cartridge go bad and then another if the second cartridge is bad.

[edjrwinnt]

It seems to have a problem at higher temps but only while printing. I just cranked it up to 235 and it held firm there while the printer was idle for a few minutes. Maybe the vibrations are affecting my weak thermistor connection to the board.

[edjrwinnt]

I found the problem. It is because of my fan being on! I only have a single fan on the hotend, and the hotend has a sock on it! I turn the fan off and the temp shoots right up. I know that I should have known better but on my 7 other, home built, printers I never had this problem, especially when using a single fan for cooling and a heat block sock. The only difference with this machine is that it's 24 volt, including the cooling fan, versus 12 volt on the other printers that I built.

[Phaedrux]

Did you run your PID tune with the fan on? That can help.

[edjrwinnt]

@Phaedrux Yes I did run a PID Autotune with the fan on. Thank you for the suggestion.

I found that I can only run my fan at around 75% to hold higher temps, which is still amazing to me because it's only a single fan with one of those 3/4 circle duct vents. I put tape on the main part of the vent where the main air flow comes from so that it circulates around more before it is release near the hotend. I still cannot believe this fan can make that much of a difference even with a sock on the hotend.

[edjrwinnt]

I've been working with Marlin and Klipper the last few years and The Duet on a 24 volt machine has me learning new things!