PT100 on Maestro questions
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@PuterPro said in PT100 on Maestro questions:
That sounds like this board can't be used, period.
it probably can, but it'll take some doing, i'd opt for the supported PT1000 unless you find its sufficiently accurate with PT100 (can't say I noticed much error when i used PT100 for my chamber temp, but I didn't test it above 50-60C).
(if you'll consider getting a PT100 board, the Duet3d one aligns with the mounting hole
sand comes with stand offs for supporting it) -
After a bit of thought, it seems to me this board is simply a small amplifier to make up for the much smaller output of a PT100 compared to the other choices.
While the MAX31865 based boards are a full on A/D converter setup that talks to the microprocessor via a digital bus, or am I missing something? (I've done no research here, just winging it...)
Why wouldn't I be able to simply use the amplified PT100 signal on the normal thermistor input (assuming we could work out proper levels, wouldn't want to overdrive the input)? Which sorta was my original Q.
Not doubting your word, just seeking to understand it.
Please bear with me, it's been a LOT of years since my formal electronics training, so I'm a bit rusty.
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Because if you feed it 5v it will likely output 0-5v, 3.3v is max for the Duet, so it needs to be divided, or maybe the amplifier can run off 3.3v - idk, but it would need to be adressed.
Once you have a 0-3.3v it is likely outside the range of the normal thermistors so some tweaking would be needed to correlate the voltage to a temperature.
(which is sort of my intiial answer;)
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@bearer said in PT100 on Maestro questions:
Because if you feed it 5v it will likely output 0-5v, 3.3v is max for the Duet, so it needs to be divided, or maybe the amplifier can run off 3.3v - idk, but it would need to be adressed.
Well, that's easily checked, I've a digital bench supply I could try running the board @ 3.3v.
Once you have a 0-3.3v it is likely outside the range of the normal thermistors so some tweaking would be needed to correlate the voltage to a temperature.
Yep, agreed.
(which is sort of my intiial answer;)
LOL, yeah, but you didn't know the person you're talking to is a bit slow ...
Also fairly persistent, something you know about (I was just reading your adventures with @oliof )!
My Wife will sometimes affectionately call me a DWAB (pronounce 'dwauwb') - Dog With A Bone.Covid takes away a lot but grants us time of other things.
Any interest in helping out an old time tech on a stupid project? I could use the help, as I said, I'm a bit rusty but I have most of the tools (SMD Hot air station, Oscope, Bench meters, etc.) and some small skills.
You game?
No pressure(!), if not, I can easily go back to my PT1000, but I'd like to get this up. -
maybe next week if noone gets to it first
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Cool. Thx. I'll check the board @ 3.3v offline see what I see. I'll post back here. Have a good week, and, as we're always saying as our closeout these days, stay safe.
EDIT: I just found what my previous searches didn't. This board I have is a clone of the E3D PT100 amp. I found the schematic and an output chart. It puts out (assuming 5v power) from 0V @ 0°C to 2.33v @ 310°C (as high as we'd likely go).
The point is, it puts out a ramped VOLTAGE, not what you want on an input expecting a temperature sensitive resistor!
To make this thing work you'd have to design a setup kinda like what is already available from Duet!!
I'm not planning on going into business competing with Duet, open source or not, LOL!
CONSIDER THIS CLOSED, YOU CAN'T GET THERE FROM HERE.
Thanks for your time @bearer ! Keep smilin'.
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it could be shoe horned into compliance, but it'll take some effort and you'll probably loose all the benefits of using the PT100 in the first place, so I'll support your conclusion.
(after all the regular thermistor does just form a voltage divider feeding the analouge to digital converter. would just be a different voltage and a different path, and a different config, possibly some soldering, but doable. on the other hand, you'd probably loose much of the accuracy gained by using the PT100 in the first place)
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@bearer This ---^ Yeah, I got that. Just for fun I just fired the printer up (I just replaced a bunch of the original CR-10S wiring and converted from Bowden to Direct Drive).
I tried the PT100 as E1 Thermistor (no amp board) but of course it gave me the dreaded "open circuit" reading of 2K°.
I'll try and find that post again where David mentioned using a 10x multiplier, he gave an example M305 line ... but I suspect the PT100 will have to find a new life in my old Monoprice Select V2. It always gets the hand-me-downs, HA! My Wife calls it my Frankenprinter. It already has an all metal E3D clone, so ...
My P1000 was fine, I just do a lot of PC and other high temp stuff on the CR-10S so I wanted the increased precision at high temps. Also I just setup an Aviation connector for the hotend and soldering those plugs is a PITA so I didn't want to change the sensor. Oh well.
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this maybe helps https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7709/controlling-a-cetus3d-with-duet3d-0-8-5/29?_=1588282264184
(although you'd probably have to use R22000 for the maestro.)
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@bearer Yep, that was the post! Thanks!
Just wanted to check back in and post this for others chasing this madness ...
I went back to the PT1000 sensor and all's well.
HOWEVER, just for fun I hooked up the PT100 and set the config.g to R22000 and I can confirm that at least with a short wire and at room temp it does indeed work on a Maestro. I put it on my hot bed and it did climb, who knows how the curve works ... but it does indeed read.
