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    probing... sigh

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    Tuning and tweaking
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    • joehsmashundefined
      joehsmash
      last edited by joehsmash

      well clearly my probing isnt working as it should lol

      ive tried every kind of tape i can get my hands on to make this ir probe work it just doesnt want to....

      looking for other suggestions until my buildtak flexplate gets here...

      probing.JPG

      I should specify, i have an original robo3d r1, my bed is all black glass with white writing on it.

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      • Thaliosundefined
        Thalios
        last edited by

        I had one hell of a time trying to get the IR probe to work. I had a Creality glass that had little dimples and writing on it. Messed the whole thing up.

        What I ended up doing was doing a level from the actual bed plate, without the glass, then zero with the glass on top afterwards.

        Now I have a fully clear glass and it works really well, except when I put hairspray on the glass for adhesion, it messes the height of the zero so I have to mess with babysteps.

        Railcore II 300ZL with lots of upgrades (Duet 3 6HC)
        Heavily modified Ender 3 Pro (Duet 3 6HC)
        Heavily modified Tronxy X5SA-500 Pro with Chimera+ and dual bondtech (Duet 3 6HC)
        CR-10S Pro V2 (Duet 3 Mini 5+)
        and a bunch of SLA printers..

        joehsmashundefined A Former User? 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • joehsmashundefined
          joehsmash @Thalios
          last edited by

          @Thalios i wish i could do that, my bed plate is the glass, thats how they did it on the robo.

          theres magnets glued to the bottom of the glass, which hold it onto the y gantry track, and the heated pad is directly on the bottom of the glass.

          perhaps i should just order a new heated pad, and do a full aluminum bed swap. i already have the aluminum plate here, both 3mm and 8mm plates.

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          • A Former User?
            A Former User @Thalios
            last edited by

            @Thalios said in probing... sigh:

            I had one hell of a time trying to get the IR probe to work. I had a Creality glass that had little dimples and writing on it. Messed the whole thing up.

            Odd I only use IR sensors, with three on creality dimpled glass plates, they run fine.

            Another two anycubic's with ultra base (again a dimpled surface) and those too work fine with IR sensors.

            joehsmashundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • joehsmashundefined
              joehsmash @A Former User
              last edited by

              @CaLviNx i assume you have an original David Crocker ir probe?

              Mine is a clone, that i bought off the robo3d forums

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              • Thaliosundefined
                Thalios
                last edited by

                I have an original, latest version. When I probed, I would get random points that were over 1mm off from the others.

                Railcore II 300ZL with lots of upgrades (Duet 3 6HC)
                Heavily modified Ender 3 Pro (Duet 3 6HC)
                Heavily modified Tronxy X5SA-500 Pro with Chimera+ and dual bondtech (Duet 3 6HC)
                CR-10S Pro V2 (Duet 3 Mini 5+)
                and a bunch of SLA printers..

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                • A Former User?
                  A Former User @joehsmash
                  last edited by

                  @joehsmash

                  Yes I didn't even know there was a cloned version

                  joehsmashundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • joehsmashundefined
                    joehsmash @A Former User
                    last edited by

                    @CaLviNx i think im just going to manually level it and be done with it. Kinda drives my crazy that it has to probe every time.

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                    • dc42undefined
                      dc42 administrators
                      last edited by dc42

                      The IR sensor doesn't work well on plain glass. It can work well enough for most purposes if there are no coatings on the glass and there is a Matt black surface underneath it. So if your printer uses a glass bed on top of a bed with lettering on it, put a sheet of black paper under the glass.

                      Black glass would probably work well, but is hard to find.

                      Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                      Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                      http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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