MakerGear M2 Marline to RepRap Z offset help

airscapes

@phaedrux Ah, I get it.. I did not understand the high and low part, got it..
So this should be correct now.

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop"                           ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on X via pin !xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop"                           ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on Y via pin !ystop
M574 Z2 S1 P"!zstop"                           ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on Z via pin !zstop

Edit.. something still not right
I apologize for my lack of understanding.. should have spent a few weeks studying before jumping in.

Phaedrux

Yes motor direction will likely need to change as well.

Start with the fact that the 0,0 position is in the front left corner. -X moves to the left, +X moves to the right. -Y moves to the front, +Y moves to the back.

If the endstop is at the high end of travel (right side for x, or back side for Y) then the M574 will be X2 Y2.

Homing move directions would be in the positive direction in the homing macros and the direction of motor rotation will need to match as well so that + moves go right or back, and - moves go left or to the front.

I hope that helps.

airscapes

@phaedrux said in MakerGear M2 Marline to RepRap Z offset help:

Yes motor direction will likely need to change as well.

Start with the fact that the 0,0 position is in the front left corner. -X moves to the left, +X moves to the right. -Y moves to the front, +Y moves to the back.

If the endstop is at the high end of travel (right side for x, or back side for Y) then the M574 will be X2 Y2.

Homing move directions would be in the positive direction in the homing macros and the direction of motor rotation will need to match as well so that + moves go right or back, and - moves go left or to the front.

I hope that helps.

When speaking or front left, is that my left when looking at the machine or the machines left looking at me.. still in the auto repair mindset.. left& right from drivers seat . 0,0,0, is right front with bed up ..

I keep thinking I have this correct and then read something that confuses me.
Looking at the Marlin config it says this about end stops which makes sense I think because I was wrong about Y.. when the build plate move towards the Y end stop, it is actually moving to position 0. kind of confusing since it is the bed that is moving once homed the nozzle is at Y0, same as X, so would that not make them both Y1 and Z which is farthest from the nozzle 0 when homed be Y2??? Then set motor direction to achieve the proper moves?

Here is a pic of all 3 end stops you can see Z between the bed and frame on the left.. Finger is at XY 0

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

alt text

Phaedrux

@airscapes said in MakerGear M2 Marline to RepRap Z offset help:

When speaking or front left, is that my left when looking at the machine

Yes, your left when looking at the machine. This matches the way that CAD and slicer software orients the part view.

Now there is no hard rule that says this is the way things must be. There are many printers that have the endstops on the opposite side and still home to the low end with all endstops. As I said, if you do both X and Y it just has the effect or rotating the part 180 degrees compared to the slicer preview.

In the olden days the endstop and the 0 point were synonymous, but now days the origin and the endstop locations are not necessarily the same.

I would ignore the marlin setup entirely and focus on the printer itself and how it's oriented and how reprapfirmware is configured to reflect that.

Here are some photos that might help clarify.

dbot axis.png Bed Area.png

airscapes

@phaedrux I think I have the motion and end stops all figured out.
Homing works correctly and all the jog buttons move the axis in the proper direction .
I have even figured out the M206 thing .. sort of. Was going to print a cal square but got a heater fault on the bed as it was just starting to heat up and has always been slow. So new thread on that issue, as searching did not help much at all.
Will update this once I can print something... assuming it prints..

Phaedrux

I don't think M206 would be needed at all. It's far easier to just adjust position of the reachable area with the M208 min and max values.

If the nozzle is off the edge of the printable bed when the endstop is hit, you can treat the corner of the bed as 0,0 and then use a negative value for M208 min to place the endstops as far as they need to be away from the bed.

In the case of a setup using max endstops such as this, if the endstop is off the edge of the reachable bed you can just limit the print area in the slicer.

airscapes

@phaedrux I have made good progress and to your point the, M206 does not work the same in RepRap as it does in marlin. In marlin it is added to max_pos . So I did as you said and used the M208 to alter the gap between the build plate and the nozzle. I would normally do this within octoprint using m206 but since I will now have to edit the config I will have to use both interfaces as I do prefer octoprint over the web interface of the Duet. Still have to do some more testing and probably tweaking of Accelerations and such.
Thanks for your patients with me, I am sure I will be back with more questions I can't find answers for.

andyk

@airscapes Heya, did you ever finish your M2 conversion? I'm considering taking the plunge too. Would you be willing to share your config files and any build gotchas either here or in the makergear forums?

airscapes

@andyk Sure but I am not sure I would do it again since I am adding nothing to the M2. Not sure it is really an upgrade other than noise reduction. I am finding issues with using Octoprint where the duet 2 Gui crashes and the manual extrude/retract buttons of octoprint don't work. I could give up octoprint.. but old habits die hard.

Phaedrux

@airscapes said in MakerGear M2 Marline to RepRap Z offset help:

Octoprint

Octoprint isn't really recommended with the Duet. It kind of defeats half the features of the Duet.

airscapes

@phaedrux
I am going to give the Web Gui a run and see if I like it. Have a job running now without Octoprint connected, waiting to see if the Gui Still crashes.. Started the last job with the Gui, octoprint was connected, and the gui died so had to power off the machine to stop the job...second time without octoprint connected .. so far so good