How Do I Calibrate My Titan Extruder and Test Print?
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I struggled to believe the genuine parts are any different to the clones. Normally, I know the difference, but there's not much in a hotend that I can see.
My last attempt is to unscrew the nozzle a bit, so it's set lower, but seeing that the thermistor runs the full length of the nozzle as it is, I can't see there being an improvement. I really just think it's a bad clone, and I'll have to drop $100+ to get a genuine one here.
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I struggled to believe the genuine parts are any different to the clones. Normally, I know the difference, but there's not much in a hotend that I can see.
I think the main difference between a genuine hot end and a clone is the heat break - hence my suggestion that you try a genuine heat break which will be a lot cheaper than the entire assembly. The heat break on a genuine part is very narrow which means that there is a sharp transition between the hot zone and the cold zone. Getting that right is difficult to machine and if the quality of the steel is less than optimum, it can can make the part fragile and easy to break. So the clone manufacturers tend to make the heat break thicker which prevents it from doing it's job and too much heat gets transferred from the hot zone to the cold zone.
Edit. Or you could try my other suggestion and fit a higher flow rate fan to shift more air over the heat sink. Having just thought about that, it could also be that the clone has a thicket "tube" section to the heat sink which will retain more heat so maybe you need the genuine heat sink as well as a genuine heat break…......
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I struggled to believe the genuine parts are any different to the clones. Normally, I know the difference, but there's not much in a hotend that I can see.
I think the main difference between a genuine hot end and a clone is the heat break - hence my suggestion that you try a genuine heat break which will be a lot cheaper than the entire assembly. The heat break on a genuine part is very narrow which means that there is a sharp transition between the hot zone and the cold zone. Getting that right is difficult to machine and if the quality of the steel is less than optimum, it can can make the part fragile and easy to break. So the clone manufacturers tend to make the heat break thicker which prevents it from doing it's job and too much heat gets transferred from the hot zone to the cold zone.
And possibly the nozzle geometry which is tightly controlled in an original E3D One
Doug
ps this seems like to good to be true but I have 2 in the post to me https://www.reprap.me/v6-heat-break-titanium.html £6.21 for a titanium V6 Heatbreak seems like a bargain to me hopefully it is just a mistake on the price and the parts will be genuine we will see when they arrive.
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Doug
ps this seems like to good to be true but I have 2 in the post to me https://www.reprap.me/v6-heat-break-titanium.html £6.21 for a titanium V6 Heatbreak seems like a bargain to me hopefully it is just a mistake on the price and the parts will be genuine we will see when they arrive.
Doug,
That does seem like a bargain and RepRap.me are official resellers for E3D https://e3d-online.com/resellers
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Doug
ps this seems like to good to be true but I have 2 in the post to me https://www.reprap.me/v6-heat-break-titanium.html £6.21 for a titanium V6 Heatbreak seems like a bargain to me hopefully it is just a mistake on the price and the parts will be genuine we will see when they arrive.
Doug,
That does seem like a bargain and RepRap.me are official resellers for E3D https://e3d-online.com/resellers
Ian
That's exactly why I was willing to take the risk.
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If this price is real and that are really Titanium - HB's i would say: Buy at much as you can.
If you went over to Filastruder you will pay around 50€ for one.
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yep well I expect mine to land either tomorrow or Monday and it should be fairly easy to tell if there Genuine Titanium or not and I don't think the Chinese would try to clone them TBF 2 have cost me around $20 shipped.
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But interessting that they sell the "non- Titanium" Heatbreaks for more money
I'll have ordered also a few of them.
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I know didn't want to drop to much on then straight away but they are also the guys that designed the Diamond hotend so I think they are fairly reputable so I don't have to many worries about them at the mo
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ack, let us see what we'll get
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Hi,
Just want to mention the following ,but not 100% sure.
Isn't it so that original E3D V6 heatsinks have M7 threads in them ,and most clones are M6 ?
From the pics in the link i can see the have M7 on the heatsink side and M6 on the heaterblock side
so they would fit the original E3D's but not the clone heatsinks.So befor you order maybe you want to check if the innerthread of your heatsinks are M7 or M6(heaterblock side is no problem they are all M6)
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If true, that's a good point. Genuine E3D V6 are certainly M7 in the heat sink and one would assume that clones would at least attempt to use the same dimensions but maybe not. As you say - worth checking.
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Your somehow right. My "Clone" Heatsinks have this Problem too. The Original ones does use M7 and they work like a charm. Now with Capricorn-Tube i'm happy.
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Mine are original V6's so I am not worried but it will be a telling point if they dont fit then they are clone heatbreaks without a doubt will report as soon as they arrive
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So, i've assembled my Setup today again.
The same Setup (some Parameters i need to change) was working with "normal" E3D-Heat-Blocks and 12v/40W Cartridges and Standard-Nozzles in a Chimera Dual Setup without any problems.
i've ordered 2 Volcano-Kits and set them (incl. the new Cartridge-Thermistors) in my setup.
Here the main - Problem starts up, it was not working, only if i use 5mm/s as Retraction-Speed and i've to slow down the Print to not more as 5-10mm/s which is horrible slow.
Today i've received an oringinal E3Dv6 Heatsink, an original E3D 12V Fan, 2 original E3Dv6-Heatbreaks and Capricorn - Tube.
I've disassembled everything and have the E3DV6-Volcano-Combination together exactly as the Assembly-Guides will show. Tighten latest with 285°C and tried to use it.
The Print looks exactly the same. The Extruder will skip (or drive back and forth due to to much pressure) cause the Filament will not constantly feeded. If i use again 10mm/s max it works without any problems.
That's driving me nuts.
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One additional Side-Node.
Regardless of the Nozzle - Size (tested 0.4mm, 06mm, 0.8mm so far) i need to lower the Extrusion Mulitplier to around 0.54 in Simplify3d if i want to set the extrusion width to the same size as the nozzle-size.
With my Standard-E3Dv6-Blocks and nozzles i need around 0.93
For me this indicates that there is a lot of plastic beeing able to be molten but why i can only print at 25mm/s without landing into underextrusion issues? That's is really annoying.
Some advice is really, really appreciated!
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The extrusion width will depend on other factors too, in particular the height of the nozzle above the bed. Don't try to print with the extrusion width equal to the nozzle width, it's not practical because of filament swell as it leaves the nozzle. Most slicers default to extrusion width about 25% greater than nozzle size, e.g. 0.5mm using a 0.4mm nozzle.
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The heater keeps shooting well over 15c hotter than specified, even though the sensor is sitting in the hotend and reading the temperature.
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Have you run auto tuning on the extruder heater yet?
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I did a M303 and it said that it wasn't tuned.
I then went and did a M307 H0, and took the results and updated the heater details in the config.g.
It's currently printing just fine, so I'll wait and see what happens…