Duet3D Logo Duet3D
    • Tags
    • Documentation
    • Order
    • Register
    • Login

    Filament monitor on Duet 0.6

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    Filament Monitor
    2
    4
    201
    Loading More Posts
    • Oldest to Newest
    • Newest to Oldest
    • Most Votes
    Reply
    • Reply as topic
    Log in to reply
    This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
    • gregglesundefined
      greggles
      last edited by

      Re: Filament Runout switch on Duet 0.6

      I have read through what I believe to be the new filament runout details: https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Sensors_filament , but was unable to work out how to connect one to my Reprap Fisher Delta with a Duet 0.6. It is running firmware 1.26. How can I add a Fimament runout sensor (gcode to add and pins to connect to.) Also, what sensor should I buy? I just want it to pause print if no filament.

      droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • droftartsundefined
        droftarts administrators @greggles
        last edited by

        @greggles A simple switch filament runout sensor (effectively just a microswitch) is all you need. However, there's a problem connecting it, which is that you're already using all the endstop inputs on the Duet 0.6; X, Y and Z inputs for the tower endstops, and the E0 input for the bed. However, you should be able to connect the microswitch to the expansion header; if you look at the pinout for the Duet 0.6 here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Duet_pinout you can see the pins for the E1_STOP (pin 9, PA15), E2_STOP (pin 48, PC17), etc. Pick one of those, and wire the switch between the pin and GND (NOT 3.3V or 5V!).

        For configuration, see the 'M591 - RepRapFirmware 1.21 to 2.x' tab in M591. Most likely you'll want something like:

        M591 D0 P2 C4 S1 ; drive 0, simple filament sensor, low signal when filament present (P2), E1 endstop, enabled when printing
        

        In firmware 1.19 to 3.1.1, the action on a filament error is to enter the Pausing state, show a message on all available targets with the type of filament error, and invoke system macro pause.g. The job is paused and will need manual intervention to resume the print.

        Ian

        Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

        gregglesundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • gregglesundefined
          greggles @droftarts
          last edited by greggles

          @droftarts Thank you! I will order one. I am guessing low signal means tied to ground. Which part of the gcode command defines the endstop that it is connected to?

          droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • droftartsundefined
            droftarts administrators @greggles
            last edited by

            @greggles said in Filament monitor on Duet 0.6:

            I am guessing low signal means tied to ground

            Yes, you may have to experiment with that, as it depends on how the switch is wired. Ideally the microswitch will be 'Normally Closed', ie pin is grounded when filament is present, and only go 'high' (or rather floating) when filament runs out, as it is less susceptible to interference then. If you end up with a switch on a 3-wire PCB (one wire will go to 3.3V), you should still be able to connect it; see https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Sensors_endstops

            The Duet 0.6 is less tolerant to wiring errors than newer boards, so check your wiring at least twice before turning it on. You can test it as a normal endstop switch first with M574, before setting it up as a filament runout sensor.

            I also have a Fisher (I used to work for RepRapPro), and it still comes out to test firmware updates and print odd bits and bobs when other printers are broken or busy. It currently has a Duet 2 Maestro in it, but I have plans to update it to a Duet 3 Mini 5+ board. Also got rid of the original extruder, has a Bondtech BMG clone on it now, much more reliable! Also carbon rod arms. I need to redo the side panels though, as the acrylic cracked in a couple of places, and broken around one corner. I've got a pile of 3mm Dibond to make them, though I'll have to get my CNC router running again before I can!

            Let us know how you get on.

            Ian

            Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • First post
              Last post
            Unless otherwise noted, all forum content is licensed under CC-BY-SA