How to properly ground hotend?

droftarts

@Arminas Run a wire from the hot end metal parts (hopefully there's a mounting screw you can use) and/or extruder stepper motor (usually one of the mounting screws should work) to the PSU negative (NOT the PSU mains ground/earth). This can be the VIN negative screw clamp on the Duet mainboard or toolboard, or a frame screw if the frame is grounded.

Ian

EasyTarget

@Arminas
You definitely should ground the hotend on a 3d printer, the effect of pushing plastic through tubes and nozzles will cause static buildup and possibly sparks.

But do not ground it directly, instead use a high value resistor (100K / 1M) to bond it. This will safely deal with the static, but helps to protect the printer against accidental shorts (frayed wires and case defects) between thermistor or heater leads and the hotend.

I'm sure I saw this advised here long ago, but couldn't dig up a reference.

droftarts

@EasyTarget Yes, it's how @dc42 has been recommending doing it for a while.
https://forum.duet3d.com/search?in=posts&term=100k+resistor+ground&matchWords=all&by[]=dc42&sortBy=timestamp

Ian

Arminas

@droftarts @EasyTarget so which option is better - hotend or extruder stepper?

Would it additionally help if I would print hotend parts in ABS ESD?

droftarts

@Arminas said in How to properly ground hotend?:

so which option is better - hotend or extruder stepper?

It depends. Ideally, both if there's no conductivity between the motor and the hot end. If you have something like a E3D Hemera, where all the metal parts touch both the hot end and motor, you can probably ground just one. At worst, ground the hot end, as it's ESD building up in the metal parts of the hot end, then sparking between that and the temperature sensor wiring that is a particular problem for the controller board. Less so if the ESD short to the heater wiring, I would have thought.

Would it additionally help if I would print hotend parts in ABS ESD?

Possibly, I don't have any experience with that. If it doesn't have a high capacitance, has low resistance, and makes good contact with the hot end and/or motor, I'd guess it might help. But unless it has a good connection to ground (perhaps through the mounting and frame), it probably still needs a grounding wire.

Ian

Arminas

@droftarts hi. I came back after a long long time, and I finally want to do the grounding of hotend. I am using a rapido plus 2 UHF, which is mounted on the aluminum plate (ratrig toolhead). So if I understand it right, I can make the grounding from the aluminum plate where the hotend is mounted, and connect it to...? I am using a 1LC toolboard.

droftarts

@Arminas See https://docs.duet3d.com/Duet3D_hardware/Duet_3_family/Duet_3_Toolboard_1LC#wiring-notes

We recommend connecting the hot end metalwork to ground on the toolboard via a resistor (10k to 1M Ohm), if it is not grounded through its mounting system. This will prevent the hot end building up static charge, which might otherwise occur as filament is extruded and may then flash over to the tool board thermistor input, causing damage.

On the v1.3 toolboard the mounting screw holes are all grounded via 100K resistors to provide a path to ground for any static build up in the extruders, assuming the toolboard is mounted to the extruder.

Ian

Arminas

@droftarts so if I have v1.3 toolboard, I just need to run a wire from hotend to toolboard screw hole? Just want to make sure

droftarts

@Arminas Yes, that should be fine. It should make contact with the copper plating around the screw hole.

Ian

Arminas

@droftarts Ok, I have connected the wire and I checked the continuity between nozzle and 1LC mounting hole - I get a sound signal so I assume it should work. What else should I check in order to make sure that hotend is grounded? There is no continuity signal between nozzle and 1LC negative wire on the PSU side, is this normal?

droftarts

@Arminas said in How to properly ground hotend?:

There is no continuity signal between nozzle and 1LC negative wire on the PSU side, is this normal?

You won't get continuity (ie a beep) because of the 100k ohm resistor. If you switch your meter to measure resistance, it should read 100K.

Ian

Arminas

@droftarts I get 100K if I measure between nozzle and another 1lc copper plated hole (not the one where wire grounding is connected). If I measure between nozzle and negative slot on PSU, I am getting 2.2 k.