Creality CR-10 upgrade
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Unfortunately we are dependent on the Expressiv SDK for management of the WiFi connection. It's closed source, and FCC rules prohibit Expressiv from open-sourcing it even if they wanted to. There was some indication on the Arduino github pages that the new SDK version that fixes the KRACK vulnerability doesn't play nice with some brands of WiFi router.
There remains the possibility that some of the connection issues are due to our own firmware. To help identify whether this is the case, recent versions of RRF and DWS have a debug facility whereby any debug messages coming from the wifi module will be echoed to USB if you send M111 S1 P14 first. You must have a USB connection active to use this facility.
There is a 1.21RC1 version of DuetWiFiServer almost ready for release. It fixes a known issue with repeated use of FTP. I suggest you try that along with DuetWiFiFirmware 1.21RC1 when it is released (I hope tomorrow), and enable the debug facility if the disconnections persist.
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ik wil try the 1.21RC1 firware when its ready,
but i dont think i have a problem with the wifi connection , i tryed the M111 command but it didnt show any problems with the wifi connection , my duet shows up connected on my router and i can also ping it. it looks like the http server is closing the connection.. -
So i have fitted new AP and its a lot better. I mean a lot.
David, i have this thing i cant sort out. I print PLA and PETG but it needs different z offset. I want to be able to add that offset to start gcode in slicer. i read the solution you provided with G91 but i would like to have it set no matter layer hight. I tried adding G31 P500 ZXX.X but it did not work. I have created macro with this and then was calling macro file with G98 to no success. Perhaps i am doing something wrong here. -
Probably the easiest way is to use the new absolute babystepping command in firmware 1.21. I expect to release RC1 later this afternoon.
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How would one set up safety for Z axis so it would back off if the nozzle hits build plate? I had it happen for no reason twice now so i thought it might be good to do before i change to PEI. Thanks
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Have another request. My bed. Has 1kw heater and i use ups for power outages. Is there a way to initiate power failure mode by a switch or 5v? I found 5V out when on battery power so i could connect relay. But how to set it up using an endstop or something else?
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You can initiate a pause using an endstop input a a trigger. See the M580 command in the GCode wiki.
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The M580 is something "select Roland". I don't even know what that is. Was it a typo and should i just look up pause M25 (M24 to resume) in combination with M581 for external trigger?
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I am sorry, I misremembered - I meant M581. You can use the T1 trigger number to make the printer pause, without having to set up a trigger macro.
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So if i put: M581 E1 T1 S1 C1 in config.g, it should suffice to execute <pause>and when power is restored, i would execute <resume>macro or it should still be available on print menu on LCD?
Probably i would want to have T2 to execute macro file as i will need to shutdown all the heaters to prevent UPS drain</resume></pause> -
That all sounds good to me, except that you will also need to restore the heater temperatures in your resume macro.
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Regarding build plate. I cant seem to find the difference between Mesh grid compensation (G29) and Auto bed compensation (G32)
When i run G29 and add G29 S1 to my starting gcode, nothing happens but when i run G32 just before a print, i can see Z lead screws move tiny bit when printing a model.
On the wiki it says G32 is obsolete, and better to use G29. But what i am missing here. My bed is quiet level at about ~0.09mm (on G32, probing 5 points).EDIT. probably it does the job. Since G29 grid is multiple points adjustments are not that noticeable.
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BTW is there a tuning procedure for pt100 sensor? I have done tuning for the bed and now its dead on target but hotend is fluctuating up and down 2.5 degrees
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exactly the same as you would do the bed I did mine last week when I changed my Heater block and Nozzle to the Copper ones.
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BTW is there a tuning procedure for pt100 sensor? I have done tuning for the bed and now its dead on target but hotend is fluctuating up and down 2.5 degrees
Is it a regular oscillation of 2.5 degrees, or a random fluctuation?
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If it is a regular oscillation, try increasing the D parameter in the M307 command for the hot end by about 20% (bearing in mind that if you are using a config-override.g file, it's the one in config-override.g that counts).
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If it is a random fluctuation, you probably have a poor connection in the PT100 wiring.
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Regarding build plate. I cant seem to find the difference between Mesh grid compensation (G29) and Auto bed compensation (G32)
When i run G29 and add G29 S1 to my starting gcode, nothing happens but when i run G32 just before a print, i can see Z lead screws move tiny bit when printing a model.
On the wiki it says G32 is obsolete, and better to use G29. But what i am missing here. My bed is quiet level at about ~0.09mm (on G32, probing 5 points).EDIT. probably it does the job. Since G29 grid is multiple points adjustments are not that noticeable.
You can run M122 and look at "Bed compensation in use" to check whether mesh compensation is active.
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Thank you. Will check it out
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I am having problems with IR probe. Last night set the probe and all was good, today morning started a print and it was 0.55mm off. I ran mesh bed compensation (G29). I have gcode so use saved bed map in my gcode starting script. I noticed this throughout the build that it is not consistent. I do mesh bed compensation probing with heated bed and nozzle.
One thing i have noticed that my IR probe LED sometimes goes very dim and sometimes goes out. Don't know if that has to do with anything.
Just ran test 3 times and i get a lot of play. Here is single point measured:
1. -1.102
2. -1.080
3. -0.595
That is no good at all -
I'm thinking now, perhaps i should run the test before each print?
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One thing i have noticed that my IR probe LED sometimes goes very dim and sometimes goes out.
You probably have a bad crimp connecting in the +3.3V feed to it.
