@3dmntbighker, Yes, there is consensus. There are 2 ways you can connect your display.

1. You use your cable, cut one end on it, get some dupont connectors and wire it according to this diagram:
   
   If encoder is reversed, you flip 2 bottom wires(as per pic) on Duets EXP2(left connector on pic)
2. method is to use 2 10pin cables(so you need to buy another one)
   a. on duet, connect it normal way
   b. on ender 3 display, connect it flipped where locator clips face beeper.
   Duet exp1 to LCD exp1 flipped
   Duet exp2 to LCD exp2 flipped
   Dont forget to add M918 P1 E4 to your config.g

I have modified my Ender 3 printer for duet boards. I have included drill and cut guides for wifi and maestro to be fitted into original enclosure. You will need drill, 2mm drill bit, hacksaw or jigsaw for metal, a file to smooth out roughness.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3260958
For LCD you will need additional 10 way cable and cut out slots on LCD's EXP1 and EXP2 connectors to fit cables reversed.
For duet its a tight fit. Wi-Fi needs bed connector to be bewildered and soldered in reversed.

@dc42
I went poking wires all over and can confirm it is working now. Pinouts given by @arnd13 did not match. I have tested Reparapdiscount display which came in at the time i was doing this today. It worked strait out of the box so clone maestro pinouts for LCD and SD(confirmed) are correct.
If you like to add it to wiki here is wiring diagram i made. Cheers
,

@veti I dont know why would it be different as my duet wifi works ok with the same script.
P.S. OK. I have figured it out.
I have placed my move to the fron of the bed before these:
M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
and now it works

I have a concept i would like to test including piezo. I have bought a set for my extruder assembly but had difficulties mounting it and i scrapped that idea and using prusas induction probe ever since. Resolution is very good and i am happy with it. That being said i have thought of a concept that i would like to validate with you clever people.
i have large cartesian printer based on CR10S4 frame. As i have piezo "in stock" i would like to try and use it as tool offset. Mainly the idea came from thinking about e3d tool changer.
I want to mount piezo disc on the frame beside the bed. i will know piezo Z offset from the bed which will be constant. If i can have duet and piezo cooperate so the Gcode would move my nozzle off the bed where piezo disc is located and touch it to record Z offset then go about the routine of mesh mapping with induction probe.
This would eliminate the need to fiddle with Z offset all together, when you change the nozzle, clean a clog or do maintenance.
Any outside pointers on this?

@CaLviNx:

A printer does not know what it is.

It doesnt know its a CR10, i3 clone, Anet A8 or whatever

A 3d printer is a collection of electronic components : motors, heaters, switches, thermistors etc etc

YOU provide the control board with its operating parameters and it does as you tell it, then the printer does as its instructed, end of story.

Are you for real? No need to be smart ass about anything. I asked if the hardware, specifically motors were compatible with duet wifi. I am well aware of inners of workings of cnc.
The information on the productis somewhat scatered and incomplete and perhaps it is totaly sufficient for oldtimers, not so much for first builders.
The way i got answer of filament sensor might be sufficient for some but i dont know G code that well. i can read it and understand what it means but something more complex to write is another story. I dont have time to reinvent the wheel, i am positive that there are builds using specified hardware so why waist time on writing a code to pause the print, lift the nozzle, move the bed, beep for filament change etc? I thoght the comunity around this product is here to ask and answer, invent, make suggestions.
I am somewhat familiar with marlin, can make changes in firmware, upload, execute but this system is different henze the questions.

So, if you cant help, skip trying to make me look stupid cause you know nothing about me and avoid posting irrelevant crap

Yes, i second that. I use my phone exclusively. Download and upload for gcode files and settings is what i requested as well.

@dc42, is there a way to assign command to long press of a button? A bitmap conversion guide would be handy as there is no info and all current menus had a line at max as image i think.

So, i want have a place i can put all my findings. I have at the stage where i am satisfied with quality i can get from maestro(some tuning would not heart but that's software)
I was posting here on building a cartesian robot to swap magnetic plates for continues manufacturing. Then went on holidays and had an idea of conveyor. The idea is not new but what is different that it operates as a standard 3D printer and could be added to different types. In my case cartesian. There was Makerbot plywood stuff but from what i can tell, it differs. Another man approached me on facebook and he had same idea, building on lulzbot.
The idea is to have rollers and conveyor belt on the build plate and motor on the frame. After print is completed, buildplate parks at the motor, then conveyor engages and ejects parts then starts another print. The code is simple and added to end gcode. If successful it will allow for great stuff
I am using parts from Samsung laser printer, rollers, they are 12mm in diameter and they are my main concern.
I have ordered 0.05mm stainless to spotweld a belt and will attach PEI sheet on top. I hope it will be able to go through that small 12mm roller.
This would save me a lot of money and complexity VS cartesian P&P robot.
The design is very light and adds no more than 100g to Y axis. Here are couple of photos:
Dummy end

Heated bed cablechain side


Screws for tentioning the belt (i will probably need to iterate this more to something a bit more substantial)

Motor location for mating


I will still want spring loaded cog brake so when its parking, it gets disengaged. Simple mechanical.

On the Duet part i will connect this to Duet's second extruder. @DC42, is there a temperature tied to that drive? Like the extruder would not move until temp is high enough to extrude and if so could that be altered?

Still in progress. Have taken upon task changing motion system to linear guide rails. Basically little of creality will be present

@Phaedrux
Added M280 P0 S160 I1 to my home all and on slicer's end gcode.
Still does not work.
Homing when restarted works, lead screw axis compensation works, bed compensation works.
I have no idea why after a print it does not drop the pin...

Can anyone suggest gcode i could use for flashing LED when print is over?
I have tried some in the past which caused duet issue an error.
I have LED strip connected to fan.
I would be interested in all variations, like fading etc, goes from 100% pwm to 0% the up again etc
Thank you

@dc42 no, i am on 1.22.6. I have inserted and now it works fine

@JayJay BTW do i need I1 parameter if i am without Duex?

@JayJay thanks. Is this how its supposed to be used, the probe? I mean do all of them needs reseting or just on certain boards or on certain firmwares?
@Phaedrux i have not made changes since using inductuon probe so my homing gcode is the same and slicer start and end script was not changed. Maybe i just need to call reset macro in my slicer end script like suggested above.

Just not to create another topic. I have this issue where after print, on the next print BLTouch does not deploy. I have to switch printer off, then back on for it to start working again. Is this a known issue or is there a fix for it?

Received my probe today which came V3.1. My duet board is V1.02
All working good.
Wired as per tutorial:
Probe VCC to expansion slot 5V on Duet
Probe GND and Servo GND to Z Probe GND on duet
Probe Signal to Z_PROBE_IN on Duet
Probe Servo to expansion slot Heater7(PWM5) on Duet
Used all the code in the first post.
Thank you for help

Oo f..ck, no matter, going to cut and recrimp my vcc wire for the third time

@droftarts thanks. I will check board revision. I suppose then i can use 3.3V of the z probe connector!?

@Eman74 PWM5 is Heater 7. I think you need to disable heater to use that pin. In firware 3 i think you need to use M950.
P9 is for probe type. It was P5 mode some time ago but now duet has dedicated P9 for bltoucj. It has nothing to do with pwm5
I would check your deploy and retract g files for syntax. My probe is comming on monday. I just set up all to start testing right away