Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?
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Hi mindbender, i'm currently in a similar situation as you so i've been following this thread for info. I have a new anycubic kossel plus that i just upgraded to metal corners and duet control. I just noticed that you have your rod lengths set to 271mm. If you got your kossel plus in the last 7 or so months, then you most likely have the "upgraded" rods which are now 268mm in length.
Also, do yourself a favor and throw away those mounts that the bed sits on, they don't hold the bed at all and allow for bed tilt if they aren't perfectly level themselves. Secure the bed directly to the horizontal beams if possible. The heated bed has 3 holes spaced equally around the perimeter that take M3 bolts. Mine sits on top of standoffs and I modified the bed so that the bolt heads sit below the surface. If you don't want to make that kind of mod, then you can decrease your bed size to avoid running the nozzle over the bolt heads.
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Juice may have hit part of it, if the rods are different than specified. Do check that... and, normally, this makes a very symmetric "dome" or "dip", not a "tilt". So lets keep measuring some other things as well.
Also, his tips on the bed look great!!
M666 looks reasonable. These are tower angular offsets, and almost all printers will have some small corrections here.
However, the M665 X Y Z offsets look quite large. These are the "uneveness" in the limit switches. It certainly possible these accurately reflect what's happening in the physical printer, because Anycubic Kossels have a couple of things that can throw these off mechanically. Still, it would be better if they were more even. Therefore:
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Loosen the top plastic things on which the endstops are mounted, and use some small object as a "spacer" to get them as precisely as reasonable possible from the top frame. The key being to make the even.
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Use something small as a spacer to set the screws in the top of the carriages, so they are all the same length (height). Again, shooting for even/consistent.
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Run a G32 (maybe a couple) and an M500, and post the override file again.
We'll keep plugging away.
Delta / Kossel printer fanatic
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Thanks for the tips. If I measure the arms from end to end (including the chrome eyeholes at each end), all arms measure to the same 279mm. Does that seem right?
I’ll have to get the M3 bolts to address the bed angle. I think you’re 100% on the money with those horrible bed mounts. Will advise. Thanks again.
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Thank you for the tips regarding the endstops. I’ll measure and space them evenly - will report back. Thanks.
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I just noticed something when trying to screw the arms back to the slide arms at the top (these are what connect with the end stops).
It looks like three of the arms have M3? bolts that do not tighten back on the slide arms - they just spin and spin but don’t tighten. Is this a sign that the slide arms are defective?
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Hi, there is a floating 'nut' located inside of the slider. That nut has likely slipped out. I had that same exact problem. If your luck is holding it may not have actually fallen out. But you'll likely have to disassemble the carriage assy, use tweezer to reposition the nut while you thread the bolt into it, provided its still inside. On one of my sliders, the plastic cracked and I was forced to glue it together using a clamp.
Your rod-end bearings appear to be superior quality compared to what AC sold me.
good luck.
3mm
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@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
Thanks for the tips. If I measure the arms from end to end (including the chrome eyeholes at each end), all arms measure to the same 279mm. Does that seem right?
I’ll have to get the M3 bolts to address the bed angle. I think you’re 100% on the money with those horrible bed mounts. Will advise. Thanks again.
The measurement you need is from center to center of the eye holes. I haven't measured all of mine but i doubt they are all exactly 268mm since my bed still calibrates to a slight dish.
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Juice's diagram is perfect. Hole center to hole center.
Mindbender9: If they are indeed anything but 271 (your current M665 L setting), that can cause numerous problems. Measure hole-hole carefully, and if they are not 271:
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Put the actual measure in M665 in config.g
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Delete config_override.g entirely.
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Reboot (or power cycle) the printer
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Re-run M32 a couple of times, and then M500
Post your config_override.g ...
Seems like we are getting closer.
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Measuring Eyehole to Eyehole, the arms are 270-271mm in length.
@3mm - You were right on the money regarding the floating nuts. I was able to reattach all of the arms after removing the sliders like you mentioned. Thanks again.
@Danal - I set all three sliders and endstops to the same position equally. One slider arm was slightly off by 1mm compared to the other two, but now they're all evenly set.
I want to recheck the three main pillars again before performing a test calibration. Just to be safe.
Thanks guys for all of the help. Believe me, I am very grateful for all of the tips and direction you're sending my way. I would be (more) lost if you guys weren't jumping in to help.
Much appreciated as always!
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How did you make the measurement? I need to measure mine more precisely, my bed calibrates to an upward tilt on the Y tower side but i'm pretty sure they are perpendicular.
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Hi @Juice
If you mean the arms, I disassembled them from the Nozzle/Hot-End and the slider assemblies. Then I measured each using a ruler, and they were all uniform in length.
But I more or less used your diagram (thank you for that) and eyeballed to center position in each eye.
Getting the arms reattached took a little work.
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Ok thanks mindbender. I just finished measuring mine, i made a jig and measured as best i could with a steel ruler and all but 1 came out to about 266.5mm, not quite the 268 that they are supposed to be. Anycubic QC needs some work. The one arm is longer and fits the jig a fair bit tighter than all the others, it may be .1-.2 mm longer. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do in this situation?
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@juice - How long has it been since you've purchased the AC Kossel? If it's still under warranty, you could pursue getting a replacement part for that single arm.
On second thought, trying to get tech support from Anycubic3D wasn't easy. You might have better luck going through the seller for a replacement part under warranty.
Otherwise, several people have recommended carbon fiber aftermarket arms/ball ends as being one of the best upgrades for a delta printer. When I get my printer to work, I might look at replacement arms as a future purchase.
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@juice said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
Ok thanks mindbender. I just finished measuring mine, i made a jig and measured as best i could with a steel ruler and all but 1 came out to about 266.5mm, not quite the 268 that they are supposed to be. Anycubic QC needs some work. The one arm is longer and fits the jig a fair bit tighter than all the others, it may be .1-.2 mm longer. Does anyone have any suggestions on what i should do in this situation?
Be sure and set M665 L to 266.5, even if it seems to make things worse at first; getting that right is foundational to getting all the other settings.
With regard to the difference, I wouldn't count on getting anything better from Anycubic. Also, I was getting decent prints with stock arms where one was .9mm longer. So... accept it until you upgrade it... If you can, "pair" the arms as best as possible to a given carriage. Longest two together, etc.
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@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
and eyeballed to center position in each eye.
Tip for the future: When measuring center-center between holes that are identical, measuring to the same end (e.g. "right" or "top") of each hole is equivalent, and much more precise than eyeball center.
Having said that, I would NOT take your machine apart again.
And, just checking basic assumptions: You have M665 L271, correct?
Delta / Kossel printer fanatic
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@mindbender9 I've had my printer for 2 months now and i suppose i could see if they'd send me a new rod, but I think i'll just put my efforts into upgrading to magnetic ones. We both have the same model with rods that are not the 268mm that they are quoted as being. Who knows what length of rod i'll end up with.
@Danal Do you have magnetic arms on your anycubic kossel? If so, did they fit the effector and carriages without any modifications?
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@danal said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
Having said that, I would NOT take your machine apart again.
LOL - No argument here.
And, just checking basic assumptions: You have M665 L271, correct?
Yes, config.g still has M665 L271 set. I'm working on the bed issues and will remove the stock bed mounts and pursue the direct attached method.
Thanks for the help! I'll start up a test print when I get home from work.
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@juice said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
@Danal Do you have magnetic arms on your anycubic kossel? If so, did they fit the effector and carriages without any modifications?
I did mod my printer to have mag ball "Haydn Huntley - Blue Eagle Labs" rods. I actually ordered them from either Amazon or Ultibots, I don't remember. I have a linear, NON plus, so I used 218mm. For a plus, they will be different. I printed adapters for the existing effector, and printed adapters for the carriages that more-or-less completely replace the plastic part of the carriage. Found both on Thingiverse.
The effector is not on the printer right now because I am trying something different (also mag ball).
This one mod made the most difference in print quality of anything I did. I highly recommend it.
Delta / Kossel printer fanatic
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danal said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
@juice said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:
@Danal Do you have magnetic arms on your anycubic kossel? If so, did they fit the effector and carriages without any modifications?
I did mod my printer to have mag ball "Haydn Huntly" rods. I actually ordered them from either Amazon or Ultibots, I don't remember. I have a linear, NON plus, so I used 218mm. For a plus, they will be different. I printed adapters for the existing effector, and printed adapters for the carriages that more-or-less completely replace the plastic part of the carriage.
This one mod made the most difference in print quality of anything I did. I highly recommend it.
I mod'd my 'AC kossel linear plus' (although that is what I bought, it isn't what I received), but in any case I got the Hayden diagonal-rod mag-ball rod arms from UltiBots.
MindBender, I recommend that you work to establish a relationship with a quality robotics vendor and UltiBots is a good one in my estimation.
Solve the problems, get yourself a Smart-Effector and mag-ball terminated diagonal-rods, that'll fix the parts problems, the bowl-shaped bed and all the messing around trying to figure out what those cheeseballs over at AnyCubic sent ya. And with the Smart-Effector solution...everything snaps together, so-to-speak. Plus you get a in-built build area illumination 3x bright white LEDs, everything has connectors for easy removal/re-connection, and a slick z-probe auto-sensing height-sensor (everything in this art requires tweaking) and it works really well too. One of the points alot of folks miss about the Smart-Effector is that its a low mass unit, compared to the heavy effector that AnyCubic implemented. Low mass is very tastey in delta printing.
That's my two centavos here in LA, Ca, United States of Mexico!!
3mm
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I've decided to stick with my original rods since before i undertook the upgrade, the machine was printing good, 20 mm calibration cubes printed within 0.1 mm deviation, so i guess the small difference in that one rod isn't enough to make a huge difference in print quality.
What would make a huge difference is the 3mm difference in rod spacing between effector and carriages that i didnt notice during the upgrade!!
I upgraded to robotdiggs carriages and they have 20mm spacing while the anycubic effector has 43mm. I spent 2 days scratching my head over why i couldn't get good calibration even though everything seemed to be within good tolerance. Then I realized that i never measured the effector. Luckily i have a spare one that does have 40mm spacing and now i can use my V6 without any modifications...although i do lose 37mm in build height. Anyway, first calibration with new effector got me 0.031 deviation, and that's without a probe. Now, on to the minor things so i can get printing again.
Stick with it mindbender, you'll get yours running well too!
