Hi mindbender, i'm currently in a similar situation as you so i've been following this thread for info. I have a new anycubic kossel plus that i just upgraded to metal corners and duet control. I just noticed that you have your rod lengths set to 271mm. If you got your kossel plus in the last 7 or so months, then you most likely have the "upgraded" rods which are now 268mm in length.
Also, do yourself a favor and throw away those mounts that the bed sits on, they don't hold the bed at all and allow for bed tilt if they aren't perfectly level themselves. Secure the bed directly to the horizontal beams if possible. The heated bed has 3 holes spaced equally around the perimeter that take M3 bolts. Mine sits on top of standoffs and I modified the bed so that the bolt heads sit below the surface. If you don't want to make that kind of mod, then you can decrease your bed size to avoid running the nozzle over the bolt heads.

@Phaedrux Thanks!

So, i have a problem where some of the PLA filament that i use isn't of the best quality and if it sits idle in my extruder for more than a few minutes, it often snaps, leaving me with the task of extracting the broken pieces. To mitigate that problem, I've simply added the needed length of retraction to my end gcode, but this retracts the filament at printing temperature and thus leaves strings. I need the nozzle temperature to be a little lower before retraction.
I'm looking for gcode that will lower the nozzle temperature to a specific value before retracting and shutting down other parts of the printer. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

@jay_s_uk
Thanks!
That design would cut down on my printable area, the fans would touch the belts.
My search continues!

Do you have any pictures of this design assembled?
Thanks

@red-sand-robot
I have an ultrabase and what has worked for me when printing petg, is cleaning the bed with alcohol, baby stepping the starting height down a bit (-0.05) to get a better stick and printing with a brim for more surface grip. Also, once you do get a good first layer, you have to be careful with part cooling. Even a little change in bed temp will cause the part to let go.
Oh, and be careful not to scrape the bed with the nozzle, the ultrabase coating will clog it up pretty good.

Is it possible to order the smart effector without the threaded heat sink?
I purchased a threaded heat sink separately a couple months ago directly from E3D to try out some new effector designs but its time to step up to the smart effector. I don't foresee the need for a spare heat sink so I would like to save some .
Thanks

Consider calibrating the printer without using the probe just to get you up and running, It only takes five minutes. It will eliminate any probe inconsistencies and you can always come back to the probe later to tweak that last bit of accuracy.

Great! When you do find a nice config that works well, feel free to share.

Awesome instructions so far.
Oh, how are you finding the rods, acceptable?

@mindbender9 said in Beginner Needs Help - Anycubic Kossel Plus + Duet WiFi -- HOW?:

Are you sure that the offset for the probe is in the +Y direction only? Looking at your pictures compared to how my effector is installed (as by the anycubic manual) the probe may need offsetting on both axis. Can you post a picture of your effector from the front (between x and y motors) of the machine so we can see it relative to the bed?

I also noticed that the config-override.g file you posted has no updated parameters in it. When you do get the probe measuring all areas of the bed properly and you do an M500 to save the settings, double check that the override file has been updated.

Oh, and since you've been having lots of crashes when attempting to print, before you start printing anything next time, manually lower the nozzle to different points on the bed to make sure that "zero" isn't above or below the bed.