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    effector tilting into bed on print

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    • TimVukmanundefined
      TimVukman
      last edited by

      Thanks!

      I figured that was the case, and I had tried changing the Z step. I had left X and Y because they were correct in size on the configuration cube that I was trying to print.

      I can see why they all have to change. I'm getting pretty good with M665/M666 changes. I have been setting my Z=0 by changing the H in M665 in config.g

      The changes don't carry over to config-override.g M665. I'm pretty sure I did an M500. I have been editing the M665 in config-override.g even though the file says not to edit it.

      I will implement the required changes and reset the parameters.

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      • TimVukmanundefined
        TimVukman
        last edited by

        The machine went nuts when I tried to run the auto config after making the changes.

        It seems that one should delete the M665/M66 lines before running it after changes like those are made.

        I had radius information that was almost the diameter of the bed. Pulled the magnets right off the carriage (Z)

        I deleted M655/M66, reran auto config, saved that. Then I power cycled the machine and rehomed and then reran autoconfig. That put the correct values into config-override.g and I was ok from there.

        10:12:37 AMG32
        Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.045 after 0.035

        Now, to try a configuration cube 🙂

        dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • dc42undefined
          dc42 administrators @TimVukman
          last edited by dc42

          @timvukman said in effector tilting into bed on print:

          The machine went nuts when I tried to run the auto config after making the changes.
          It seems that one should delete the M665/M66 lines before running it after changes like those are made.
          I had radius information that was almost the diameter of the bed. Pulled the magnets right off the carriage (Z)

          I'm sorry, I thought that setting the M665 H parameter to the measured value and increasing the dive height to 30 would be sufficient for auto calibration to work correctly.

          Calibrated 6 factors using 10 points, deviation before 0.045 after 0.035

          That's more like it!

          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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          • TimVukmanundefined
            TimVukman
            last edited by

            At the moment, my delta is laying down a beautiful cube.

            I'm not sure I could have fixed this is there was one thing wrong, but certainly, there was at least 4 or 5 things wrong. With the interdependence of all of the elements, I was chasing problems that were changing each time I made changes.

            Thank you all for giving me a starting point, and a logical way to deal with each issue at the point in time it needed to be dealt with so that the other issues could be dealt with in the proper order.

            Setting up my Cartesian with the DuetWifi was so simple in comparison, but each issue could be addressed without really causing new ones.

            I love the silent smooth printing that this board provides, and I am extremely impressed with the smart effector.

            I have plans to build a Thor Arm printer next. I have a few Nema17 motors left after upgrading my cartesian to 24V and Nema23 motors.

            So, I will be ordering another DuetWifi 🙂

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            • TimVukmanundefined
              TimVukman
              last edited by

              24% in. It looks like the nozzle is trenching the model. Over extrusion?

              At 25% printed, height on the browser screen says it is at 5mm. Rough measurement says it might be 1mm higher for the actual model. The model is starting to rock back and forth on the tape it's printing on.

              When I changed the XYZ steps /mm to 100, I did not recalibrate the filament extruder. Should I do that?

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              • dc42undefined
                dc42 administrators
                last edited by

                The extruder calibration is not affected by the XYZ steps/mm, however if you haven't already calibrated the extruder then I recommend that you do.

                What infill percentage did you use when you sliced the model?

                Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                • TimVukmanundefined
                  TimVukman
                  last edited by

                  I did calibrate the extruder for 100mm and it was dead on. Print quality is set for medium.

                  Interior Fill Percentage = 90%
                  Outline Overlap = 15%
                  Infill Extrusion Width 100%
                  Minimum Infill Length 5.0 mm
                  Combine Infill Every = 1 layers

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                  • dc42undefined
                    dc42 administrators
                    last edited by

                    Turn the interior fill percentage down a lot. 15 to 30% is commonly used. If necessary, turn down the extrusion factor.

                    Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                    Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                    http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                    • TimVukmanundefined
                      TimVukman
                      last edited by

                      Hi:

                      I have a complete configuration cube!

                      Z=18.2 width x 20 height
                      Y=20 width x 18.2 height
                      X=18.2 width x 18.2 height

                      I want to print fan_duct_40mmv2_fixed to put on the smart effector. It loads into S3d as X160.67, Y59.62 and Z33.29

                      I don't think those are correct dimensions and it says the scale is 2540.00%. S3D says it is too large to auto position when I click center and arrange. I have tried changing scaling in the past which usually results in a visible model with 0 file size and therefore doesn't print and object.

                      I've pulled v3 off thingiverse.

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                      • TimVukmanundefined
                        TimVukman
                        last edited by

                        How do I fix the widths that are coming in at 18.2mm?

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                        • dc42undefined
                          dc42 administrators
                          last edited by

                          1. Check that you have entered the correct L parameter in the M665 command in config.g. It should be the length of the errors measured between bearing centres.

                          2. To make small corrections to the X and Y scaling use the M579 command. But I suggest you use a larger calibration object for that.

                          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                          • TimVukmanundefined
                            TimVukman
                            last edited by

                            Thanks dc42.

                            The L parameter has not been changed throughout all that we have done. On four of the rods, it is 360.20. The other two rods are 360.21. Would it be better to have the two rods that are 360.21 on the same carriage?, or to place them opposite each other?

                            I will look into the M579 command. I am printing the cooling fan holder (V1) for the heated bed and I need the accuracy for the screw holes.

                            Thanks,
                            Tim

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                            • dc42undefined
                              dc42 administrators
                              last edited by

                              It's best to have those two rods on the same carriage - although with such a small difference, it probably doesn't matter.

                              Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                              Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                              http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                              • TimVukmanundefined
                                TimVukman
                                last edited by

                                Thanks. That was my thought so that is what I did.

                                My cooling fan for the hot end stopped during a print yesterday. (I hate crimp connectors.) Fan is fine, lost power. I didn't notice until the filament extruder started clicking and then I saw that no filament was being laid down.

                                I would rather not drill it out because I would likely damage / destroy the plastic tube. If I put the cooling fin assembly in boiling water, would the filament melt and flow out (or push out) of the tube?

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                                • dc42undefined
                                  dc42 administrators
                                  last edited by

                                  If it's PLA then with the nozzle at 100C, the heatsink cool and the Bowden tube removed, you should be able to pull the filament out of the hot end the way it went in, if it hasn't broken off already.

                                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                                  • TimVukmanundefined
                                    TimVukman
                                    last edited by

                                    Thanks, I will file that for the future. The filament broke just inside the tube when I was trying to remove it while I still had heat on. I don't have enough space around the filament to grab it with anything.

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                                    • TimVukmanundefined
                                      TimVukman
                                      last edited by

                                      I'm back up and running. I had a really decent filament coil inside the hotend before it got into the tube. Obviously, one cannot run a printer without a functioning cooling fan.

                                      The X adjustment for the M579 worked out to 1.0185. Not only did that fix the spacing for the screw holes, it improved the printer quality in the corners.

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                                      • TimVukmanundefined
                                        TimVukman
                                        last edited by

                                        For my purposes, I consider this thread complete with very high satifaction!

                                        Thanks
                                        Tim

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                                        • dc42undefined
                                          dc42 administrators
                                          last edited by

                                          Thank you!

                                          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                                          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                                          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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