FOUND IT!!!! IT'S OK NOW

I did a comparison between my two memory cards. On the Card that was not working, The directory structure with the folders that is supposed to be in the WWW folder was in the root.

I moved the files into the www folder, power cycled the machine and all it well. I am connected.

Sorry to waste so much of your time. I even confirmed the directory structure in the wiki and it is clear that the folders are showing in a www directory.

Really, I'm actually not this stupid normally.

Thanks for your patience!! I will never make that mistake again

Extruder Adjusted

Printing Calibration Cube.

Print is looking very good. X and Y are 20mm.

I can't thank you all enough for the help and support that you have provided. You are all consistently knowledgeable and helpful every time I contact you.

My printer is completely silent except for the fans that are cooling the main board. There is no motor sound at all.

I am really very impressed with the Smart Effector.

Is there any way I can adapt my cartesian printer to support one of these? My current hot end is a square unit that mounts via screws through the top. It would be great to be able to bolt one of these on somehow.

(edited for spelling)

For my purposes, I consider this thread complete with very high satifaction!

Thanks
Tim

Hi
I am trying to complete my Cartesian Printer, and I believe I am up against my lack of electronics knowledge.

I am having problems with my Y axis. There is another post that I have been reading which seems to be having the same issue where the motor is skipping (for lack of a better term.) My print starts out correctly and then the layers start positioning themselves incrementally forward.

The advice in the other thread is discussing back EMF and the use of the wiki tool.

I have put the results in because I don't know what to do with the information.
I am not sure about the resistance and inductance as they were not on the site where I bought the motor.

Here is the detail from the drives section of my config.g

M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I0 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation
M92 X400 Y800 Z360 E84.75 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X40000 Y40000 Z18000 E7200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X60000 Y60000 Z16800 E72000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X250 Y250 Z250 E250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X950 Y855 Z855 E855 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

Any observation / advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim
edited to add the detail from the config.g

@wcj97
Hi wc97. I believe yours is indeed the post I was reading.

My Y Axis is completely non standard. it is a 20x60 V-Slot. On the wide side which is horizontal, there are two slide rails.

Each of those slide rails is mounted in the outer two tracks of the three that are there. There is a OpenBuilds plate 80 x 150 mounted to the two sliding bearings lengthwise along the Y Axis.

In the center of the plate is a lead screw block. It's not the right thread for the lead screw, so the block was drilled out. At the end of the plate is a bronze lead screw holder from an old Z axis gantry that is the correct thread.

So, the lead screw rotates in the bronze adapter which is attached to the build plate which moves the build plate. It is actually very stable and precise. The block is really there just to support the lead screw.

With the two slide rails, there is almost no friction on the axis. There are some other open build blocks that are mounted to the plate and extend out from the plate in a Y configuration that lines up with the two back corners of the heat bed and the front center so that I have a three point level system.

I ran this for more than a year when this printer was originally a Tevo Tarantula and the motors where all Nema17 motors on 12 volts.

The configuration is now a 500mm x 500mm x 500mm cube. Centered on the outside of each side are 500mm openbuilds motion systems driven by Nema23 motors. Connecting these two drive systems is a square gantry that goes through the inside of the cube. This is the Z axis.

The Y Axis is mounted on the top of this square gantry.

The X axis is mounted across the top of the cube and handles the hot end.

The Neam23 on the Y Axis is a .9 degree motor and the overall plan was to get another one to replace the 1.8 Nema 23 that drives X currently.

The system is powered by 24 Volts. I may replace the hot bed with a larger one as the plan for this printer was for large objects.

Any other questions, please let me know. This printer has been a tank for me and I really only got into trouble when I upgraded the motor. I'm sure it will get sorted out and I will get the correct settings into it.
Tim

Thanks. That would make implementation simpler by having the RPi manage sending the slices to the LCD panel and control the exposure time.

Any plan to put together a wiring diagram?

I meant to include the link for the mUVe:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8xCOdl2soS-UDQ1ckE3SEZvVnM/view
page 13 starts the discussion on M650 if it helps
Thanks
Tim

Hi
I have spent the morning searching for information that might be helpful. I have not found a specific list of which GCodes are supported by nanoDLP.

I have found a manual for a specific printer which is the mUVe DLP and the manual is all about setting up nanoDLP. There are certainly a number of specific GCode detailed examples.

I have a couple of Raspberry Pi 3 b+ units with Raspbian installed so I am going to download nanoDLP and see what I can discover by working with the software. I can easily set up a board with some LEDs to see what GIO pins are being used.

Is there anything specific that I can look into that would be of help to you in looking at this? Is the specific list of GCodes in the DuetWifi the list that would need to be supported assuming there may be some specific to dealing with the exposure time for the UV Lighting, etc.?

In theory would the goal be to replace the nanoDLP with the functional capabilities already built into the DuetWifi? I already have a DLP printer that I purchased from SparkMaker which includes the software used to slice the model before it gets written onto the memory card which it prints from. Would I not be able to obtain most of the GCodes needed by reading that GCode file?

I'm offering to do whatever research I can. Can you give me a list of the information you need?

Thanks,
Tim

@dc42
Thank you so much for the quick reply. That is great news.!!!
Is there a wiring diagram anywhere and perhaps a setup guide?

I will look up the G-Codes you have listed and look for a peel-move.g sample
I have about a month for the parts to come in so I have time to understand what I have to do to make it work.

Any docs you can recommend?
thanks
Tim

Hi

I am purchasing the various pieces that I need to build the printer detailed in the link below.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749678
I have a spare Duet and I'd like to see if I could use it in this build.

Specifically, there is only 1 stepper which is the Z axis, and two limit switches, but I am wondering if the bed heating circuit could be used to control the UV lamp system. In reality it would need to be able to turn the lamp controller on for a duration of time, and then turn it off.

In the printer that I have linked to, an LCD panel with the backlight removed is used to display the layer image on the bottom surface of a vat containing resin. A cluster of UV LEDs is used to fuse the resin layer. The build plate is raised through each layer and the LCD displays the next sliced image which is then exposed to the UV light.

If I can't use the Duet, it's not a problem. A Raspberry Pi is used to drive the sliced image on the LCD, and general io pins are used to drive the stepper and light exposure. I have seen other designs using a Ramps board which is why I thought I might be able to use the Duet.

No hurry,
Thanks,
Tim

!!Brilliant!!

Thanks for putting this together and letting me know about it.

Are you getting the correct amount of filament ie 100 requested, 100 sent?

I have had to correct mm/s every time I have changed parts on the hot end.

Have you tuned the heater? That will help ensure the heat value.

Hi
In going back to belt drive, I've had some issue with skipping, but they seemed to be mechanical. My X axis is mounted inside the printer frame although it is a 20x40 mounted vertically with half of it above the frame. It's been a challenge to find a way to mount the motor so that the gear with the teeth is at the end of the axis.

I'm at a point where the first layer tends to wander around a bit on X. It seems to eventually decide where it wants to be while still in the first layer and then it starts printing properly. I'm only using a fairly small arc of the gear motor so I suspect I need to increase the number of teeth that I am engaging.

I think I will end up mounting the motor to the outside frame and extending the belt.

@phaedrux
Well, that was quite the education on what is available in the filament market. I had no idea there were so many choices. Thanks!

@deckingman
That's not a great ad for steel core belts, but I am not surprised. I wonder if they would be a good target for 60 tooth wheels. The bend arc would be much more relaxed.

@deckingman
Sorry, I missed this in the bunch that came in since I last checked the board. Thanks, that's the one I ordered!