Observations on PID tuning

garlicbread

P0.9 seems to be the highest I can go without generating a warning
I think I might try that with adjusting the dead time
since I now know that printing smooths out some of the oscilations

3dmntbighker

@fcwilt Mine is a 40W 24V cartridge, and my last PID run triggered the big red warning that it was likely to hit 600C in a thermal runaway. I used the numbers as generated anyway. Judging by the resistance I'm pretty sure the new cartridge is a 24V. But I got the warning at P1 anyway.

fcwilt

@3dmntbighker said in Observations on PID tuning:

@fcwilt Mine is a 40W 24V cartridge, and my last PID run triggered the big red warning that it was likely to hit 600C in a thermal runaway. I used the numbers as generated anyway. Judging by the resistance I'm pretty sure the new cartridge is a 24V. But I got the warning at P1 anyway.

I tend to be cautious when it comes to setting things on fire.

Until dc42 tells us there is a bug in the code and the warnings are bogus I'm going to play it safe.

Frederick

brunofporto

Always measure you heat cartridge resistance to know your real power output.

dc42

The "over powered" warning for hot ends is very common, especially since E3D started shipping silicone socks with their hot ends without reducing the heater cartridge power to compensate. Most users ignore it. However, if it predicts much more than 500C then I suggest a lower powered heater cartridge. 30W or even 25W is sufficient for an E3Dv6 hot end with a silicone sock.

fcwilt

@dc42 said in Observations on PID tuning:

However, if it predicts much more than 500C then I suggest a lower powered heater cartridge. 30W or even 25W is sufficient for an E3Dv6 hot end with a silicone sock.

Thanks for the info.

So simply using a lower P setting is not sufficient to be safe?

Frederick

wilriker

@fcwilt said in Observations on PID tuning:

So simply using a lower P setting is not sufficient to be safe?

It will be OK as long as the MOSFET controlling the heater output does not fail short. In this case it would lead to full power heating at Vin voltage and no more control by the Duet. Given these fails are rare but they are a potential risk.

I am currently looking into introducing something like described in this thread to be able to cut power in this case.

fcwilt

@wilriker said in Observations on PID tuning:

I am currently looking into introducing something like described in this thread to be able to cut power in this case.

There are network controlled outlets available.

https://3gstore.com/product/7755_single_outlet_remote_power_switch_app_controlled.html

I wonder if a Duet could send the needed command?

Frederick

wilriker

@fcwilt Technically they will work as well. I have a few concerns about them though.

First they are much more pricy then the linked solution
They are often proprietary systems where you have to use an app to switch them
Some of them offer to switch them from anywhere in the world but that requires to punch a hole in my firewall to some Chinese server I don't like that

Of course this is a ready built solution that is literally plug and play on the other hand.

fcwilt

@wilriker said in Observations on PID tuning:

@fcwilt Technically they will work as well. I have a few concerns about them though.

First they are much more pricy then the linked solution

They are often proprietary systems where you have to use an app to switch them

Some of them offer to switch them from anywhere in the world but that requires to punch a hole in my firewall to some Chinese server I don't like that

Of course this is a ready built solution that is literally plug and play on the other hand.

Yes it is more expensive but it is possibly "plug-and-play" with Duet.

There is no app involved or outside server. It's a very simple HTTP command set needed by the web server running in the unit.

The reason I mentioned it is that these devices have many applications. I have a few in my home controlling other things and if it could work with the Duet it would just be one more use.

Frederick

wilriker

@fcwilt I can definitely see how convenient they are - but I like to tinker my solutions including the trial-and-error spectrum of it.

3dmntbighker

@dc42 said in Observations on PID tuning:

The "over powered" warning for hot ends is very common, especially since E3D started shipping silicone socks with their hot ends without reducing the heater cartridge power to compensate. Most users ignore it. However, if it predicts much more than 500C then I suggest a lower powered heater cartridge. 30W or even 25W is sufficient for an E3Dv6 hot end with a silicone sock.

Damn, I just ordered a bunch of 40W heaters after my wire failed. Mine predicted 600C. Is there any point in tuning with a lower P setting at this point? Assuming I want to keep the 40's should I remove the silicone boot and re-tune at P1? Or is the best course to ditch the 40's and order the 30's? <grumble>