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    [Solved] Constant vertical lines | [not solved] Uneven extrusion

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    • williamwestonnundefined
      williamwestonn
      last edited by williamwestonn

      Printing om my MOD cr-10, just replaced my old board with a Duet wifi to improve the printer. Tried printing the Z motor bracket seen on the pictures. The first print i did was printed with the long side agaist the X axis (Printed in Y movement). These lines wasnt there when printing with my old board. And i have tried loosening my belts and also using extra tension. The lines are the same.

      Tried to change the direction 90 deg but the lines were still there. The short side doesnt have those lines.

      Im wondering if this has anything to do with the settings im using.

      Printing 0.2mm layers with a titan aero at 821steps/mm 16 mictrostepping with the interpolation tested 3-5 outside perimiters.
      The infill on the picture was at 5%

      Voltage to the standard cr-10 motors is 750mV(650mV for Z axis) with 16 microstepping and interpolation.
      Voltage imput is 12v.
      Acceleration is set to 500 and im printing at 60mm/s with 40% speed on outer perimiters.

      What may cause this issue?

      https://ibb.co/j7xUvU
      https://ibb.co/cu5GaU
      https://ibb.co/jvO2FU
      https://ibb.co/h53f29

      [SOLVED]

      Vertical lines were made from the motors not being the recommended voltage of what the TMC2660 drives. The minimum maxmotorcurrent is 1.2A. This you can see on the back of your motor. ex;(1004AC = 1.004A)
      Replaced my 1.8deg 1A motors with 1.7A 0.9deg motors and there is no lines.

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Phaedruxundefined
        Phaedrux Moderator
        last edited by Phaedrux

        Can you post your entire config.g?

        Have you tried printing a different STL?

        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

        williamwestonnundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • williamwestonnundefined
          williamwestonn @Phaedrux
          last edited by

          @phaedrux Here is my Config file:
          I havent tried to print another STL file but I dont think the STL file is the issue, how can another STL file
          Do any difference?

          ; Drives
          M569 P0 S1 ; Drive x goes backwards
          M569 P1 S0 ; Drive y goes backwards
          M569 P2 S0 ; Drive z goes backwards
          M569 P3 S1 ; Drive e goes backwards
          M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
          M92 X80 Y80 Z400 E811.9 ; Set steps per mm
          M566 X600 Y600 Z12 E120 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
          M203 X18000 Y18000 Z180 E1500 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
          M201 X500 Y500 Z250 E10000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
          M906 X750 Y750 Z650 E750 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
          M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

          ; Axis Limits
          M208 X0 Y-14 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
          M208 X310 Y326 Z400 S0 ; Set axis maxima

          ; Endstops
          M574 X1 Y1 S1 ; Set active high endstops

          ; Z-Probe
          M574 Z1 S2 ; Set endstops controlled by probe
          M558 P7 H5 I1 F350 T6000 ; Set Z probe type probe and the dive height + speeds
          G31 P25 X-40 Y-40 Z0.82 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger heeight
          M557 X50:255 Y50:255 S20 ; Define mesh grid

          ; Heaters
          M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
          M143 H0 S140 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 140C
          M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
          M307 H1 A503 C223.7 D5.3 B0 S0.9
          M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

          ; Fans
          M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
          M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
          M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

          ; Tools
          M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
          G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
          G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Phaedruxundefined
            Phaedrux Moderator
            last edited by Phaedrux

            Your extruder jerk is quite low. That could maybe explain it on curved segments, but not so much straight walls.

            Measure the pitch of the waves. Does it match your belt pitch? It looks like it could be close to 2mm, which matches GT2 belt. Often times vertical banding like that is due to a mechanical vibration caused by belt tooth noise. Are the belts on your CR10 running smoothly? Is the toothed side of the belt running over a smooth idler? Is there any rubbing? If you power off the printer and disconnect the motor from the Duet and move the X and Y carriages by hand does it feel smooth or is it jerky?

            Are your hot end temperature stable or swinging?

            Does your extruder extrude smoothly into free air?

            Try a fullstep value for your E steps per mm. Try 812 instead of 811.9

            Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

            williamwestonnundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • williamwestonnundefined
              williamwestonn @Phaedrux
              last edited by

              @phaedrux Ill try this out!
              Some more info about the printer is that the motor is "JK42HS40-1004AC-01F
              May the 1A rated current be the issue?
              Im replacing my Z motors with some 0.9deg 1.7A motors so may try them out before installing them on my Z axis.
              But im still waiting for them to arrive

              Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Phaedruxundefined
                Phaedrux Moderator @williamwestonn
                last edited by

                @williamwestonn They are fairly low current, you could try running them at rated current to see if it makes any difference. Print a benchy and monitor the motor temp throughout the print. If it gets too hot to touch you can reduce it a bit more. The motors can handle hotter than you can touch, but if the motor mounts are printed they may soften.

                Googling that model number brings up several motors all with different specs. Do you happen to know the specs or have a different model number? Can you provide a link to the right motors?

                Switching to newer better motors never hurts, but it won't solve a mechanical problem.

                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • ayudteeundefined
                  ayudtee
                  last edited by

                  My guess is that the lines are coming from running the heated bed in bang-bang mode with your low current motors. Try doing a PID auto-tune on the bed and and it should improve.

                  Phaedruxundefined williamwestonnundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Phaedruxundefined
                    Phaedrux Moderator @ayudtee
                    last edited by

                    @ayudtee except that the lines are going against the layer lines.

                    Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                    ayudteeundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • williamwestonnundefined
                      williamwestonn @ayudtee
                      last edited by

                      @ayudtee om using a 220V heater for the bed, but if i had horizontal waves i would Guess that was My issue. Tho i think that My issue may be the too low current drivers. Thank you for suggesting to change from bangbang 🙂

                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • ayudteeundefined
                        ayudtee @Phaedrux
                        last edited by

                        @phaedrux, @williamwestonn My first reaction to seeing the example photos was that it was a mechanical problem. However, since only the electronics were replaced It seems unlikely that a new mechanical problem was accidentally introduced. So the problem must be with the current settings. Running bed auto-tune and implementing PID is easy, and I offered this as a suggestion because it was something that I would try if this was happening to me. It is a more precise way to control temperature so I still recommend it.

                        I have Delta that is using microstepping interpolation, and also have an Ormerod 2 cartesian that has microstepping interpolation turned OFF. Here is a thread about why this is recommended:
                        https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/79/microstep-interpolation/11

                        williamwestonnundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 2
                        • williamwestonnundefined
                          williamwestonn @ayudtee
                          last edited by

                          @ayudtee Thank you, and i think you were right!

                          I tried up the voltage to 900mV even tho the motors has a max A1.004.
                          The lines are much less noticeble but the motors are getting warmer now. Im thinking of using my 1.7A 0.9deg steppers on my X/Y axis instead of the Z axis. And i hope this will give me even better accuracy.

                          My "Z-wobble" Is still there even tho i replace my bent leadscrew tho.
                          If im printing in vase-mode, the surface will turn out great. So i wonder how i can remove it..
                          Ill try to use PID on the bed and see what that does. But is there anything els that can cause The Z-wobble??

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • williamwestonnundefined
                            williamwestonn @ayudtee
                            last edited by

                            @ayudtee Is it just to do a Autopid and add the M307 H0 to activate PID and disable BangBang?

                            Im also wondering how and where the settings for the thermal runaway protection is?

                            ayudteeundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • ayudteeundefined
                              ayudtee @williamwestonn
                              last edited by

                              @williamwestonn Yes you will need to add an M307 command for the H0 after running the autotune. Instructions are here:
                              https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control

                              Duet's safety temperature monitoring is explained here:
                              https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Spurious_heater_faults_and_how_to_avoid_them

                              Did you change your M350 command to disable microstepping interpolation?

                              williamwestonnundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 2
                              • williamwestonnundefined
                                williamwestonn @ayudtee
                                last edited by williamwestonn

                                @ayudtee No, the interpolation is still there.

                                I havent tried enabling Pid for my bed yet but im afraid this isnt actually a temp issue. This may be a extrusion issue that i have no idea how to solve..

                                At the start of every outer perimiter there is a tiny blob. After this there is like a tiny underextrusion followed by a slowly regaining pressure in the nozzle.. This may explain the ineven surface..

                                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • NeoandGeoundefined
                                  NeoandGeo
                                  last edited by

                                  When you get that behavior does it look like the X-Carriage does a split second stutterbefore resuming smooth motion? That's what mine does, and I get a repeating pattern the entirety of the print.

                                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • williamwestonnundefined
                                    williamwestonn
                                    last edited by

                                    I noticed today that my vertical lines are still there but im replacing the motors today to see if that does the trick..

                                    I just disabled retraction and enabled PID on my bed and the print looks almost perfect..

                                    My friend had a titan extruder and told me to use higher retraction and retract att about 70mm/s instead of 30.

                                    My issue with his settings is that i now noticed the motor skipping/slipping during re-extrusion in the retraction cycle.

                                    I cant find any recommended settings or why this happens. But my steps/mm is 819.. for what i know this is high, but people are getting good results with the titan so why wouldnt i..

                                    Ill post results after the next test

                                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • williamwestonnundefined
                                      williamwestonn
                                      last edited by

                                      [SOLVED]

                                      Vertical lines were made from the motors not being the recommended voltage of what the TMC2660 drives. The minimum maxmotorcurrent is 1.2A. This you can see on the back of your motor. ex;(1004AC = 1.004A)
                                      Replaced my 1.8deg 1A motors with 1.7A 0.9deg motors and there is ny lines anymore.

                                      For what iv found my "Zwobble is some kind of extrusion issue..
                                      Replaced some Ballbearings in my Titan extruder and changed the Acceleration from 10000 to 500. Upped my extrusion speed and its now much better. Im still experiencing some kind of over or underextrusion after a layerchange. But ill test using "force retraction between layers, and see what that does.
                                      Any suggestions?

                                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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