very pleased with DuetWifi on CR10, great board & investment
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just printed a large spool holder, 50% infill using ABS and "uncovered" printer....i think it came out great except just couple lines...any ideas what that could be from? otherside rock solid print, super quiet and faster than 8-bit for sure!!!
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I put the Maestro in my Ender 3 and I already had the WiFi in my CoreXY. I don't think I'll ever struggle with a poorly supported Chinese board.
I'm still trying to minimize that layer change lump without creating a gap in the process.
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Talking about the under extrusion bit horizontally, or the retraction/layer change blobs?
The blobs are somewhat normal but they can be improved using "Pressure advance"
The under-extrusion could be caused by filament deviation, rounding errors caused by the layer height you chose and the lead screw steps/mm or it could be caused by the gantry binding slightly.
I just switched from a Marlin 1.4 ramps on my FT5 R2, it was an expensive decision, but it has made the printer a whole new machine.
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@wyvern yea is about the horizontal under-extrusion.....i think you gave explanation but honestly most of went right over my head!!! lol, still learning a lot of this. I used 0.2 layer heigh, using S3D and two Z motors running off independent outputs coordinated by firmware (not just in parallel from one port)...what is filament deviation?
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@imrj
Deviation is when you have filament that is supposed to be 1.75 but some parts are slightly fatter or skinnier, so you get more or less extrusion, in addition, filaments with bubbles inside will reduce the material per mm
I had a Maker geeks roll that was so bad that I went into the room to find the printer doing some mime crap (printing nothing) there were actually parts of the filament that were flat and got stuck in the heat break.Pretty much every machine can do .2 layers just fine, but some layer heights can give issues were it doesn't round right and you get occasional banding.
Do you use two end stops? if not there is always the possibility that the Z axis will be off one full step, it's easy enough to check, just home it and check the bed level, it its obviously out, you can turn the stepper by hand to correct it, it will make a little bump noise.
That said, I don't think that is your issue, what you have is pretty minimal and common.
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If you don't mess with the Z motor or geometry (the steps/mm remain the same), I believe the layer height should be in increments of 0.04 to stay on the natural steps on the Ender 3, and probably the CR-10. So 0.2 is fine but 0.15 and 0.3 are not. This keeps the layers aligned with the stepper natural steps with a 1.8 deg stepper. My coreXY is 0.01 step increments because I installed a geared stepper.
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@3dmntbighker I switched all motors to 0.9 step a while ago, before duet (was running Marlin on MKS GEN L), is there a formula or something to calculate that layer height ?
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@imrj said in very pleased with DuetWifi on CR10, great board & investment:
@3dmntbighker I switched all motors to 0.9 step a while ago, before duet (was running Marlin on MKS GEN L), is there a formula or something to calculate that layer height ?
You bet: https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/#optimallayer
0.9 stepper with 8mm pitch leadscrew gets you 0.02mm per full step.
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That's where I'm at, I have a belt drive 2-1 ratio 1.8 stepper and 4 start lead.
Glad I did some investigation because I was about to try a 16t vs 20t motor pulley, it give an oddball .016 s/mm.
It also makes sense now why .15 layer looks like crapola- but .16 should be fine.
But if I add a .9 stepper it is essentially unlimited at .01.
Guess it's time to buy a new stepper!
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i use 1.8 stepper with a lead screw of 2mm pitch.
this gives .01
and leadscews are cheaper than new steppers
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Yeah, but out of 4 lead screws I've used only 2 are good, plus I just got new anti-backlash nuts intalled, plus I'm lazy and don't want to deal with setting up the lead screw timing and assembly.
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@veti not by much at all really, mine were only like 5 bucks more each
