Warning Light for Bed temp

dc42

@paulhew said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

M42 P3 S0
Error: M42: Logical pin 3 is not available for writing

P3 is Heater 3. Use P2 in that M42 command.

PaulHew

@dc42 Thank You David.
Doh! LED now works.
I was going to write a line like this which I use for my can fan control
M106 P2 T25:65 L128 H100:101:102 ;Case fan temp control

So
M106 P2 T35:100 H0
But I can already see the issue in regards to the P2. Can I map the logical pin2 to a new fan number, so I can use P3 in that line?
Or am I going about this the wrong way?

DocTrucker

80C thermal normaly open (at room temp) switch. No software involvement needed.

PaulHew

@doctrucker said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

80C thermal normaly open (at room temp) switch. No software involvement needed.

Sorry, I do not understand.
I would like the lamp to be lit if the bed is still hot, I have a glass bed and it takes a while to cool and I do not always have DWC open, hence by using code so it can read the temp and light the LED if conditions are met.

A Former User

Search for KSD-01F and you'll find lots of cheap chinesium parts that will work, just pick a temperature and a normally open (NO) part.

Run the lamp in series with the bimetallic switch attached to the bed, it will only conduct if above its marked temperature. It will work with the only requirement being that power supply is on.

DocTrucker

Hi @paulhew. @bearer beat me to it.

In a nutshell it's the reverse of a kettle bimetallic switch, but self resets.

It closes once the switch hits a certain temperature and opens once it cools below that temp give or take a little hysteresis. Commonly used as a really simple fan controller.

dc42

@paulhew said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

But I can already see the issue in regards to the P2. Can I map the logical pin2 to a new fan number, so I can use P3 in that line?

Yes, you can use:

M106 P3 A2

then fan 3 will be mapped to heater 2 output.

PaulHew

@dc42 said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

M106 P3 A2

Thanks DC.
After disabling H2 again, even though it is in my config.g, I tested to make sure the LED illuminates which it does, then issued your string.
M106 P3 A2
Error: M106: Fan number 3 is invalid, must be between 0 and 2

Should it work with a Duest Maestro?

P.

dc42

@paulhew said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

@dc42 said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

M106 P3 A2

Thanks DC.
After disabling H2 again, even though it is in my config.g, I tested to make sure the LED illuminates which it does, then issued your string.
M106 P3 A2
Error: M106: Fan number 3 is invalid, must be between 0 and 2

Should it work with a Duest Maestro?

P.

Good point, the Maestro is limited to 3 fans in RRF 2. The RRF3 early beta for the Maestro supports 4 fans, but the way you setup the pin mapping is different. See https://forum.duet3d.com/post/91906 if you want to try it.

PaulHew

Thanks David.
I could move one of my fans, like the case fan.
I was going to ask in the rrf3 forum, but can I take a decent ssd card, format it and drop rrf3 on it an keep my original card and swap if need be?
Thanks again David and all, it is appreciated.
Ask me a network question or something about model helicopters and I could help back!

dc42

@paulhew, a copy of your existing config should work except as described at https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview.

Phaedrux

@paulhew said in Warning Light for Bed temp:

Thanks David.
I could move one of my fans, like the case fan.
I was going to ask in the rrf3 forum, but can I take a decent ssd card, format it and drop rrf3 on it an keep my original card and swap if need be?
Thanks again David and all, it is appreciated.
Ask me a network question or something about model helicopters and I could help back!

The firmware doesn't reside on the SD card itself, rather, the bin file for the firmware is written onto the board itself, so to swap between firmwares you would need to reflash each time.