Firmware 1.18 provisional change list
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I have a volcano, 40 watt heater and high volume / pressure fan. So I can test whatever you'd like. I know I see a +/- 2-3 degree spread on my volcano at times, so would certainly appreciate that.
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I have a volcano, 40 watt heater and high volume / pressure fan. So I can test whatever you'd like. I know I see a +/- 2-3 degree spread on my volcano at times, so would certainly appreciate that.
Thanks! To start with, please heat up your hot end until the temperature is stable. Then extrude filament through the volcano nozzle at the maximum rate you are ever likely to while printing, for about 30 seconds, while monitoring the hot end temperature. Continue monitoring it after you stop extrusion. I'm interested in how much the temperature drops when you start extrusion, and overshoots when you stop, to see if it is worth adding a feedforward term.
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Results will be here in about 10 minutes when it's done uploading.
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Thanks, looks like the under/overshoot is about 2C.
Are you using 1.75mm or 3mm filament? If it's 1.75mm, are you able to extrude at 10mm/sec or greater when using a large nozzle on the Volcano?
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Ability to update PanelDue firmware from Webcontrol
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1.75mm filament.
How large of a nozzle do you want to try? I can go from .4 up to 1.2mm.
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Will try out the 1.2 and let you know.
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What I am thinking is that if you print with a 1.2mm nozzle at e.g. 0.6 mm layer height and 1.5mm extrusion width, then at 100mm/sec printing speed the extrusion rate for 1.75 mm filament would be about 1.5 X 0.6 X 100 / (1.75 X 1.75 X pi / 4) which is about 37 mm/sec. Maybe you can't reach this extrusion rate, but even 50mm/sec printing speed would need nearly 20mm/sec. Melting filament at this rate may cause a significant drop in nozzle temperature, which is why adding a feed forward term may be worthwhile.
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Sounds like you should have a 3mm volcano.
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We are at the limits of what the extruder can do here. 25mm/s is definitely too fast, 20mm/s still has few stepper skips. But for the purpose of this testing, we should be good. Don't mind the snapping sound, that's another issue I've brought up with E3D, I believe it's the bearings or binding in the driven gear assembly.
1.2mm nozzle - 1.75mm filament - 300mm extrudes at 1500mm and 1200mm feedrates with the fan at %50 and %0.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P9KXk67aPk1.2mm nozzle - 1.75mm filament - 900mm extrudes at 1200mm feedrates with the fan at %50 and %0.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yADr5m_hg9M -
Chris - Off topic: in watching these videos I saw a lot more of your YouTube channel. I find it hard to not sit and watch my printers printing, now I get to sit and watch your printer as well - live!
Are you using Octoprint just for the video streaming or for control as well? if the printer on the stream running a Duet? Sorry forall the questions, just about to share this and want to be accurate.
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Hey, glad I could help feed the addiction or bring the zen as it were.
I need to update my description as I've shifted away from Octoprint and now use just the Duet Web interface for all the on screen stats and job control. I do like Octoprint's G-Code preview and being able to display that, but with the recent OBS changes and inclusion of the browser plugin, I have a single browser session for DWC in OBS that I carve up into the on-screen display you see in the stream. Prior to switching though, I used Octoprint for the onscreen stats, so if you go back a few months you will see Octoprint used to control my RAMPs setup and for a while the DuetWifi.
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Thanks, Chris! Looks like you are getting about 8C temperature drop when you start extruding, and 8C or 6C overshoot when you stop depending on whether the fan is off or on. Definitely worth adding a feedforward term if any one wants to print at those sort f speeds with a Volcano.
Your temperature indication looks rather jittery. Are you using a thermistor, thermocouple, or PT100?
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You're welcome, I'm using a PT100. I've noticed the same thing that it jumps around a lot. The temp reading does stabilize eventually.
Full disclosure - I suspect I have a 5 voltage issue on the board or my power supply though, as my screen backlight has been flashing constantly now for days. Will address that separately if needed after I find my multimeter… Anyhow, if the PT100 is driven by the same 5v rail, it might account for the jitter.
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The PT100 daughter board runs from the 3.3V rail.
I have heard of another user seeing the PT100 readings jump around when the PT100 wires followed the extruder wires over some distance, so perhaps you have a similar interference issue in the cabling. The other possibility if you are using a 2-wire PT100 connection is that you have a connection in your PT100 circuit that isn't perfect.
I use a 4-wire PT100 connection and the wires follow the extruder wiring for about 300mm and the hot end wiring for 1m. Despite this, my temperature readings are rock steady.
I suggest you try monitoring the temperature readings under the following conditions:
1. With the extruder motor off (send M84 E0) and the hot end off.
2. With the extruder motor off and the hot end heater active.
3. With the extruder motor on (e.g. after extruding, with the M906 idle current factor set to 100%) and the hot end heater off.
That will tell you whether the extruder motor current and/or hot end heater current is interfering with the PT100 reading.
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Trying out this new firmware now, I still sometimes swear bed comp doesn't do what I expect it to. I'm thinking it's just caused by my Z axis motor and 2mm pitch lead screw just not having enough torque to hit any decent microsteps, more like 1/4 stepping.
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Right wrong or otherwise on my part I just had a heater fault with 1.18 trying to print some PETG. I had the first layer set to 240C without cooling and then 245 for the second layer with cooling. I got a heater fault pretty much the instant it tried to switch to layer two saying the temp wasn't rising the 0.3 deg C;/s that was expected. My logic was I wanted the print to stick on the first layer and then bond to itself on subsequent layers. Trying the same print with flat 240C which I'm sure will work.
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Sorry for the post flood, is bed comp set by default to tapper off ? Doing a test print now with a piece of tape on the lead screw so I can see any movement. The first layer it was waving around, now it's doing nothing at all running the same span.
Thanks,
Jeff
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@(In)Sanity:
Right wrong or otherwise on my part I just had a heater fault with 1.18 trying to print some PETG. I had the first layer set to 240C without cooling and then 245 for the second layer with cooling. I got a heater fault pretty much the instant it tried to switch to layer two saying the temp wasn't rising the 0.3 deg C;/s that was expected. My logic was I wanted the print to stick on the first layer and then bond to itself on subsequent layers. Trying the same print with flat 240C which I'm sure will work.
Currently the heater gain is only measured during auto tuning with the print cooling fan off. With the fan on it is likely to be lower. That would explain why it is expecting 0.3C/sec but you don't get that. Reducing the gain in the M307 command by 20% or 30% should fix it, but you may then get some overshoot during initial heating.
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David, thanks for that. I also just ordered a new Z-Axis stepper and lead screw (one part) as I really think the 450 ma stepper is just not micro stepping at all well. It's the only remaining part of the printer. I've replaced all the electronics, motors, belts, shafts, rods, carriages, etc. Ohh and it would have been much cheaper to just buy a new printer..but not as much fun.
Edit: What I've noticed is sometimes the Z-Axis moves for bed comp as expected and sometimes it doesn't. I'll assume it's the motor.
Jeff
