Horizontal lines

Veti

Amazon PETG

thats the worst petg i have tried so far.
unfortunately i ordered 3 rolls. used up 1 to figure out how to print it well.
the other 2 are still unused. ordered different petg and was much happier.

Ringo1508

@veti, I'll try the Atomic PETG I have then ...or see if I have some Hatchbox left over.

My next test will also to be to use S3D to slice it and see if that makes a difference. At least now I'm happy to know it's most likely not a mechanical issue. I do like having motors on different drivers now too.

@veti, do you have experience using multiple drivers for Z? I followed the link. I just want to make sure what I'm doing is good, or too much, or if there's something better:

bed.g

M561 ; clear any bed transform
G28  ; home all axes
G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis
G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis
G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G30 P0 X11 Y105 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis
G30 P1 X220 Y105 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
G29  ; probe the bed and enable compensation

I have 2 motors (i3 style printer) so I'm making sure that the bed gets leveled between the two motors before doing teh G29. My config.g has the following in it:

config.g snippet

; Z-Probe
M574 Z1 S2					; Set endstops controlled by probe
M558 P5 H5 F600 T3000 A3			; Set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z0.9				; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X11:220 Y5:196 P7:7			; Define mesh grid

Veti

whats your M671 line?

Ringo1508

@veti

M569 P0 S0					; Physical drive 0 goes backwards X
M569 P1 S0					; Physical drive 1 goes backwards Y
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3				; Set drive mapping, two z motors connected to driver outputs z and E1
M569 P2 S0 V0					; Physical drive 2 goes backwards Z
M569 P4 S0 V0					; Physical drive 4 goes backwards Z
M569 P3 S1					; Physical drive 3 goes forwards E0
M671 X-39:291 Y0:0 S0.5				; leadscrews at left and right of x axis

I noticed when I accidentally manually moved the X axis on the Z lead screws that it wouldn't calibrate the X axis due to being more than 1mm offset, so I had to do the Prusa method of lowering the current on Z motors and ramming the top of the printer first. I guess I could up S0.5 to S2?

Veti

what firmware version? i think there was a problem in one of the rc releases.

Ringo1508

@veti

Firmware Name: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro
Firmware Electronics: Duet Maestro 1.0
Firmware Version: 2.03RC2 (2019-05-14b2)
Web Interface Version: 1.22.6

Veti

update to the latest 2.03 rc and try again

Ringo1508

@veti do you think there's an issue with the version that's causing those horizontal lines? or is it something with the dual driver motor setup? (which seems to work great)

Veti

i thought you said something about the leveling.

did you try the disconnection of the coupler and moving the gantry? as is said any ever so slight resistance can cause this.

Ringo1508

@veti I have no couplers (lead screw is part of the motor)

The only issue I have with leveling is that if I accidentally move the X gantry manually, if it's more than 1mm offset, then I have to ram it into the top before trying the leveling. I'm just going to try changing the S parameter of M671 to a higher number and see if that works. I used the default S0.5 that was in the documentation.

When the machine is powered off, it is effortless to rotate the Z leads (they move smoothly)

It might be Amazon PETG

Veti

@ringo1508 said in Horizontal lines:

When the machine is powered off, it is effortless to rotate the Z leads (they move smoothly)

that is not going to tell you if there is slight binding. try unscrewing the lead screw nuts.

Ringo1508

@veti which part are you talking about? Here are my lead screws, Z motors, and the X ends.

Veti

the black thing on top. so you can move the gantry up and down without the lead screw.

Ringo1508

@veti got it! Yes, if I take those 4 screws out (two on either side) the gantry is completely loose of the printer and doesn't touch the lead screws at all. I'll make sure to not snug those screws too much.

Veti

the thing to check if there is any binding from the linear guides on the smooth rods

Ringo1508

Well I updated to latest RC and I used S3D instead of Prusa Slicer. It does look better I think. I still need to tweak the settings to get rid of the blobs/stringing on the corner. So, maybe it's just slicer settings.

I checked for binding on the smooth rods and it feels fine ...it'll just fall if I let the gantry go.

Phaedrux

I think S3D sets the line starts to random by default? Try setting it to a forced location, or aligned. The layers will look a lot more consistent when they are starting at the same point and going in the same direction.

Otherwise they are looking pretty good.

Amazon PETG has been pretty good for me, but it sounds like it's hit or miss.

dc42

Have you run heater tuning on the bed heater? If you haven't then it will run in bang-bang mode, which can contribute towards Z-banding.

Ringo1508

@dc42, I did not know this. I've been running in bang-bang mode. Crap. Okay, I'll do a bed heater PID tuning. Thank you!