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    Moved printer, attempting print damaged board, blew another

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • oliofundefined
      oliof
      last edited by oliof

      From the photo, it looks like you're running the board naked on some kind of surface with some words running on the underside ... The stepper drivers require airflow for cooling on the underside and there might be enough heat to affect the cables. Both combined can lead to shorts across the solder points on the underside of the board. At that point, all bets are off, especially if you happen to cross voltages (the board has different parts running 3.3v, 5v, and your input voltage -- either 12 or 24v).

      <>RatRig V-Minion Fly Super5Pro RRF<> V-Core 3.1 IDEX k*****r <> RatRig V-Minion SKR 2 Marlin<>

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      • bass4ajundefined
        bass4aj
        last edited by

        The board is on standoffs and the first one did not have the wires going behind, that was just a quick thing that happened for the second board. The stepper drivers have ran fine like this for months, and the second board blew in minutes. I double checked the wires behind the board and they are undamaged, and not creating any contacts that could short.

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        • Stephen6309undefined
          Stephen6309 @bass4aj
          last edited by

          @bass4aj Looks like U3 has blown.

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          • bass4ajundefined
            bass4aj @Stephen6309
            last edited by

            @stephen6309 What does U3 control, and what could cause it to blow? I have yet to test it, but I am wondering if maybe there is a short in the PCB bed? there is no visible burning or damage, but I did notice it was heating unevenly before I blew the board.

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            • Arkadiuszundefined
              Arkadiusz
              last edited by

              If it occurred twice with 2 boards that would indicate there is some fault with your hardware. Problem happens when you are trying to print, so lets narrow it down to heaters.

              bass4ajundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • bass4ajundefined
                bass4aj @Arkadiusz
                last edited by

                @arkadiusz good idea. do you know what I should look for with a multimeter? I agree its likely hardware but I am not sure how/what to look at.

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                • Vetiundefined
                  Veti
                  last edited by

                  check the resistance of the heater.
                  then check the resistance of between the heater and the thermistor.

                  do this with the bed and hotend.

                  there should be a little bit of resistance for the heater and no resistance between heater and thermistor.
                  do wiggle the wires while testing.

                  bass4ajundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • bass4ajundefined
                    bass4aj @Veti
                    last edited by

                    @veti resistance between heater and thermistor? The heater is a pcb bed and the thermistor is a cartridge style pt1000 attached by Kapton tape. Or are they linked through the board somehow?

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                    • Vetiundefined
                      Veti
                      last edited by

                      they should not, but the there could be a short on the hotend. when you power the hotend that would send vin to the thermistor connector.

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                      • bass4ajundefined
                        bass4aj @Veti
                        last edited by

                        @veti Ah gotcha. I will get those checked and post back. Thanks

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                        • dc42undefined
                          dc42 administrators
                          last edited by

                          What PSU are you using, and have you checked that it is outputting the correct voltage? Over-voltage at the input could cause U3 to fail.

                          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                          • bass4ajundefined
                            bass4aj @Veti
                            last edited by

                            @veti there is no resistance between either heater/thermistor. Both heaters have some resistance. Looks normal. @dc42 Its some generic supply that M3D put on the Promega printer. Its a 24V supply. DWC reads a constant 23.7V or so, and a check with the multimeter (after detaching from the board) shows 24.1V.

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                            • bass4ajundefined
                              bass4aj @dc42
                              last edited by

                              @dc42 I also just confirmed, its not U3 that blew. L2 blew. I was touching it with a pick and the whole part just fell off lol

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                              • bass4ajundefined
                                bass4aj
                                last edited by bass4aj

                                @dc42, what kind of things could cause L2 to fail? I should also mention I saw a different thread in the forum with a similar bed issue (but not quite the same). In that post, you suggested to disconnect the bed ground and tape it to the frame. On the first board when I did that, the bed heat light stayed on, but the bed stopped heating up on start-up if that helps.

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                                • dc42undefined
                                  dc42 administrators
                                  last edited by

                                  L2 masy blow if either U3, C6 or C12 fails. Unless C6 or C12 looks damaged, my guess is U3.

                                  Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                                  Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                                  http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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