E3D 30mm fan vibration on smart effector

  • 30mm fan creates heavy vibration that translates to constant Z probe triggering, so I have to turn in off before calibration.
    I tried to reduce its speed to 60-70% by M106 P1 S0.7 or M106 P1 S200 but it stops completely. Is there any other way to make it more printer friendly without replacing with 40mm fan?

  • Well if your fan triggers the z probe (and is not damaged) i would say your z probe is set too sensitive. I often wondered how the vibration from the fan effect print quality but I never had the fan trigger the probe.

    Of course you can set you hotend fan only to turn on above 50C, which is very convenient for noise levels as well.

  • I have to turn mine off as well. It is already set for 50C; I probe at full temp.

    Probing doesn't take that long; I just let it be fully off.

  • This post is deleted!

  • @sungod3k I left it on default sensitivity. I probe at 150H and 60B, so either completely off or on. There's no way to control RPMs from within Duet as far as I see, except manually lowering voltage to ~10v?

  • Bed.g:

    ; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator
    ; 16 points, 8 factors, probing radius: 280, probe offset (0, 0)
    M106 P1 S0
    G30 P0 X0.00 Y280.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P1 X140.00 Y242.49 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P2 X242.49 Y140.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P3 X280.00 Y0.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P4 X242.49 Y-140.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P5 X140.00 Y-242.49 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P6 X0.00 Y-280.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P7 X-140.00 Y-242.49 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P8 X-242.49 Y-140.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P9 X-280.00 Y-0.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P10 X-242.49 Y140.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P11 X-140.00 Y242.49 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P12 X0.00 Y140.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P13 X121.24 Y-70.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P14 X-121.24 Y-70.00 Z-99999 H0
    G30 P15 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S8
    G29 S1
    M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T50 

  • @Danal Yes I use exactly the same method now. Wish I could lower RPMs to 70%, this fan is too brutal.

  • I have the same issue. I plan on installing a blower fan on a 4th axis and remotely cool the hotend with a tube from the blower fan to the hotend. With the 4th axis the tube can be kept pretty short, so hopefully a 5015 blower fan is big enough.

  • using smarteffector with 25mm fans on my delta. did a LOT of fiddling through the last weeks to somehow decrease noise- and vibration-level. different shrouds, fans and the like.

    usually i had such a lot of noise and vibrations, i always had to bring my hotend-temp below 45°C to get reliable probing.

    what i tried and dismissed during the last weeks:

    • most thingiverse-shrouds don't take cfm/proper air-flow into account - they brake the flow that much down it doesn't make sense to mount them
    • cfm-optimized shrouds for 40mm fans are to big for smarteffector
    • 40mm fans seem generally to big for smarteffector (the difference 40mm vs diameter of e3d v6 heatbreak is to big - to much static pressure)
    • 40mm noctuas (20 & 10 width) don't deliver enough pressure
    • 40mm ebm pabst 40x40x10 at 24v doesn't deliver enough pressure
    • non-direct, but remote air via silicone-tube: axial and radial fans don't deliver enough pressure - tried several versions (the fan's outlet-diameter has to be pretty close to the tube-diameter and also outlet - which renders fans useless unless one wants to use 25-30mm tubes)

    so i stepped back to the 25mm ones - using 3 25x25x10 gostimes delivered with my printer-kit since about a year

    • 25x25x8 ebm pabst are totally silent, but don't create enough pressure
    • 25x25x10 gostimes don't deliver enough at 12v
    • they certainly deliver enough at 24v (tried filament-fans with watertest - they stamped 2 holes 2-3mm deep into water-surface; hotend with finger on fins of heatbreak)
    • combined with a stepdown - buck-converter - one can limit noise and vibrations by going down from 24 to about 20v - with lot less airpressure

    effective against vibrations/noise:

    • good bearings
    • have fan blow freely (cfm-optimized shrouds; putting the fan under to much static-pressure stress introduces force, vibrations, noise)
    • soft flex-filament spacers - where applicable - might help a little bit (but fixing the cause - non-free airflow - has a much bigger effect)

    what i also found out: my magballs interfere quite a lot with the heatbreak-fan-motor. infact they can brake him down to a stall. burned one fan this morning. with quite a bit of fiddling found out that the rods magnets can brake down the fan significantly on wrong polarity. one can check it by bringing the magnet from the distance towards the ball while looking at the fan. if the fan's visually and noise-wise braking, turn the rod around and try with the other end. with 2 rods mounted in one corner - 1 being wrong polarity - my fan came to a halt.

    that might not directly answer the above question, but perhaps give some ideas.

  • @kolja Thanks a lot. But how you figure out that there's not enough pressure for radiator cooling? I have Noctua 40x10 on 12v cooling v6 on Railcore and yet to see any issues. Neither w 200 PLA nor 280 PC.

  • @escknx have a look here: https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Troubleshooting

    "An easy way to check that your heatsink has sufficient air flow is to simply feel the heatsink with a finger after a print has been running for some time. (Be careful not to touch the heater-block, it will burn you instantly) The entirety of the heatsink should be cool to the touch, including the bottom fins closest to the hot parts."

    But take care! This text's for the e3d v6 heatbreak. Might differ quite a bit from mosquito.

    My v6 heatbreak is easily touchable. Only the lowest fin - directly above the heatblock - becomes warm. With my duct it's practically impossible to cool the lowest fin from below - but it doesn't affect the print. When i decreased the voltage of the fan below 20V, the fins became feelable warmer to the touch.

    Be aware, that using an infrared thermometer might give wrong readings as it probably measures the temps in the middle of the heatbreak - not at the top of the fins. In that regard the finger-test - carefully - is more reliable.

    Your shroud might fit better to the 40mm fan. If it properly directs the airflow to the middle of the heatsink, everything might be fine. With my delta's comparably small hotend there's not much space to mount something airflow-optimized. And the 40mm fans diameter versus the heatbreak diameter is quite different - which creates quite a bit of an airflow-obstacle working against the fan.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2084339 With that highly optimized (filament-cooling) duct one can feel, that almost as much air is coming out of the duct as when the hand is held directly in front of the fan. Take other ducts and almost no air's coming out.

  • You may be able to reduce the effect of a magball on a motor by turning it around 180°

  • @kolja Yes passed finger test just fine. Can't feel any heat on sink w Noctua 40x10 from 12v on Duex 5.

    Some time ago I was experimenting with fans and forgot to pin 12v on Duex, so powered 12v Noctua from 24v, it worked just fine for about minute or 2 till I realized why it spins much faster. Not sure how long it has to work on 24v till damage occurs, but I think that 15-16v on Noctua will increase air flow without making in louder.

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