Raise3D N2 with Duet Wifi



  • I recently upgraded my Raise3D N2 to a Duet 2 Wifi. I'm using both PT100 and thermocouple daughterboards. The PT100 board is for the bed sensor - could not use the stock sensor. The hot ends use thermocouples. I mounted the thermocouple board on the print head so I didn't need to run thermocouple wire down to the control board.
    I added a BL Touch.

    I kept the factory daughterboard on the print head, but I'm only using it for the heater terminal blocks. I didn't have a better option in the parts bin.

    The machine has also been modified to have a heated enclosure on an independent temperature controller. The bed has been modified to to get the clips out of the build area and make it easier to use alternative bed materials. It has the bondtech dual extruder upgrade.

    The print head has additional fans for improved cold-end cooling and controllable print cooling.

    All the 3D printed parts in the photos have been replaced with new prints since the upgrade since I'm getting much better results from the machine with the Duet board.

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    Heaters and fans for the heated enclosure.
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    I also have the 12x12x24" N2+ - that will get the Duet treatment soon.



  • I have since learned that having a long extension cable from the Duet to the Thermocouple daughterboard is a bad idea. I guess I've been lucky with the N2 with about 6ft of ribbon cable. Did have one thermocouple that "went bad" - replacing the thermocouple resolved the issue, but I now think it was a communication issue.

    I have the N2+ wired up the same way, but due to the additional height it needs more ribbon cable, and neither of the extruder thermocouples is reporting reliably. Found some shielded thermocouple wire on eBay that will let me move the thermocouple board down to the Duet board.

    Sucks that I have to cut all the wiring loose from the print head and route it all again - thought I was done with this project. I don't have good connectors for the thermocouples, but I plan to mount the Raise daughterboard back in its original location. I'll use the thermocouple terminals on that to connect the thermocouples to the long leads. I'll cut through the traces coming off those terminals to ensure the circuits on the board don't cause trouble. Hope that will get the job done.


  • administrators

    I know very little about the Raise 3D printers. However, the wire between the thermocouple and the device that reads it should always be twisted pair, and made from the same materials as the thermocouple itself. Most K-type thermocouples (the type generally used in 3D printers) have long green/white twisted pair wires.



  • @dc42 Thank you. I am familiar with thermocouples and the need to avoid dissimilar materials (thus creating another thermocouple junction).

    I have found multiple posts stating the Raise3D thermocouples are type K, although the leads from them are Red/White or Red/Black rather than Green/White.

    The wire I purchased on eBay is twisted and shielded type K wire, stranded 24 gauge - so hopefully it will survive the flex of the cable chain (not severe). I'll connect the shield to a ground connection on the board.



  • @dc42 A few nights back I moved the thermocouple daughterboard down to the Duet2 Wifi board. I cut all the traces around the terminal blocks on the Raise daughterboard where the thermocouples used to connect. I checked resistance between all the terminals to ensure they are completely disconnected and isolated from the circuitry on the Raise board - so I'm just using the terminal blocks to clamp the thermocouple wires together at the print head.

    To ensure I'm getting the thermocouple wires clamped directly together, they are twisted before going into the terminal block clamp.

    The twisted and shielded thermocouple leads are about 8' long between the print head and the Duet3D board. The shield drain leads go do a vacant ground pin on an extruder end-stop connector.

    I have an RT100 board on the main board. The thermocouple board stacks on top of the RT100 board.

    When I power up the machine the RT100 reads correctly and both channels of the thermocouple board show faults (Red LED) and read 2000.

    I checked that everything is fully seated. In the process, I touched a finger to the open pins on the top of the thermocouple board and the fault lights went off. Temps appear to report correctly.

    I found a post where you suggested adding .01uf capacitors to the thermocouple board to help filter noise. I added those tonight, but the issue persists.

    I tried removing the thermocouple wires from the Raise3D daughterboard terminals to see if it was something about making the connections in those terminals. That doesn't eliminate the error.

    I haven't identified exactly which pins need to be touched to clear the error. Seems to one or both of the first pair inboard to the center pins.

    Any thoughts?

    UPDATE: - my knowledge of digital electronics is somewhere on the low end of "enough to be dangerous" ... thinking that my touch may be just a bit of resistance between pins, I took a piece of ESD foam from a CPU chip package (it is slightly conductive) and pushed it on to the open pins of the TC board. That doesn't clear the fault. If I touch the foam, however, it clears the fault. I tried touching a grounded wire to the foam and that didn't do anything.



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