Free working Cetus MK3 - Thermistor cap!!!
That’s right I’ll give you my old, but in great condition Cetus MK3 + A bunch of spare brand new nozzles print bed and leftover new parts from my build free ( you pay for shipping wherever that may be )
Solve my heater, thermistor, temperature issue not reaching the expected 450 C
It’ll be fun, why not!
Brian - Maxing out at 305c ish - ideas thoughts?
Can this hardware and firmware reach high 430-450c temperatures? That’s my requirement, any assistance would be appreciated - i’ll get there eventually, but with your help, sooner would be cool!
NOTE: is it possible to partially burn out the heater filament, I added a secondary duplicate fan to the heat break, because of massive heat creep all the way up to the Bondtech extruder melting the bottom mini plastic protrusion mounts - had to drill out the filament path all the way through the heat brake and heater block - three times - ( I know, WTF ) - in case this has any bearing On the matter!
Here’s my set up
- Duet 3D 2 Wi-Fi - latest duet web control - running reprap 3.1.1
- Mosquito magnum
- Bondtech BMG-M ( not relevant but here it is )
- Slice high temperature thermistor 450c
- Slice 50W heater ( 24v )
- Configured slice thermistor with the reprap configuration tool to 445c .json file reflects that
- hotend thermistor and heater are properly installed and secure.
- 24V 300W - Power supply
objective is to print high temperature filaments
Ultem 9085 / 1010 etc - and any other super plastics composites I can find
Maximum heat temperature
Thought I was getting closer
started with - 220 / 270 / 290
M303 H1 P1 S300 ( One resource I used )
It’s either configuration, reprap has no adjustable temperature limits - bad heater cartridge, bad thermistor, or specs are unreachable
Or just something absolutely simply stupid
Any help would be great, thanks man!
See attached snaps
M303 H1 P1 S310
I added a secondary duplicate fan to the heat break, because of massive heat creep all the way up to the Bondtech extruder melting the bottom mini plastic protrusion mounts - had to drill out the filament path all the way through the heat brake and heater block - three times - ( I know, WTF ) - in case this has any bearing On the matter!
The combination of not reaching 300C even with a 50W heater and having massive heat creep sounds like an incorrectly-assembled hot end. I don't know the Slice hot ends, however it's not uncommon for users of E3D V6 hot ends to assemble them with the heater block touching the heatsink, where there should be a gap of several mm. This leads to the "massive heat creep" you mentioned and an inability to reach operating temperature.
reprap has no adjustable temperature limits
M143 H1 S450in the config should help, but iirc you had this in a different thread, and looking at the curve it does flatten out like its reached its set point or highest temperature.
does the LED for E0 stay on all the time when its at 305C or does it start turning off before reaching 305C?
and do you have any other means of measuring the tempearure to determine if the thermistor is just giving you a bad reading?
@dc42 The previous heat creep was due to the fan being off - ( M107 command in the print G code )
that has been corrected and is always on, now it just plateaus at 305c
@bearer 290 C has maintain temperature accuracy, but I will try the 305C, to see if it stays active, if that’s what you mean, I will test
It just seems to plateau, it simply won’t go any higher, weird it’s a 50 W heater cartridge by slice engineering combined with the 450 C thermistor and the mosquito magnum so it should reach the 450 C temperature - unless the firmware or the duet 3-D 2 Wi-Fi board can’t handle it
I’m running 24 V 300 W power supply
It just seems to plateau, it simply won’t go any higher
and if the LED stays on then you're either got an underpowered cartridge or just loosing as much heat as you can add.
if the LED goes out the duet is limiting the power to the heater and its a config/sensor/gremlin issue.
depending on that we can start focusing on narrowing it down
So I just tried attaching a pot to E0 and copied your config. Set the pot to 750-ish oms which should be about 300C
turned the resistance down until I got about 450C and it measures about 144 ohm
so the sensor config and spec sheet seems to working correctly on duet2wifi with rrf 3.1.1
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T500000 B4723 C1.19622e-7 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit M143 H1 S445 ; set temperature limit for heater to 445C M563 P0 D0 H1 F0
Is it definitely a 50W heater cartridge? Measure its resistance to check.
Is your power supply keeping up? What are you getting at the VIN terminals when trying to reach temp?
@bearer LED? On the motherboard?
sensor - you mean the heater cartridge?
@bearer LED? On the motherboard?
@bearer said in Free working Cetus MK3 - Thermistor cap!!!:
“a pot”? Where did you turn down the ohm, is this a file configuration
@bearer i’m relatively new at this, learning quite quickly, thanks for your help, we’re almost there I think, copying your config Code will work?
“a pot”? Where did you turn down hms, is this a file configuration
don't worry too much about the details, but I used a variable resistor (aka potentiometer, shorted to pot) to mimic your sensor on order to see if the the firmware would map the resistance to a temperature according to the google sheet you linked to - and it did.
copying your config Code will work?
it should be the same config i copied from your other thread, I just tried to verify that it was correct to rule out some factors.
please try heating it up again and take a look at the LED for the E0 heater down in the corner of the board and see how it behaves when leading up to the temperature plateau; also as Phaedrux points out, keep an eye on the Vin reading in DuetWebControl as the printer goes from idle, to heating and to settling on the plateau.and see if it changes much.