Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI
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@Phaedrux The new fans are rated Voltage:24V 0.06A each for the two fans. It was a poor design on the part of the printer manufacturer to have the dual 5v fans on one port for such a large printer in the first place... I'll update the process soon. Thanks !
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@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:
Running the fans in parallel is a bit better than running 2 in series. I've done it on occasion, but it does mean the fans may not behave exactly as they would plugged in solo.
In a parallel circuit, the voltage across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component.
So as long as your two fans aren't huge current draws (most fans aren't) you should be ok.
The fan still does not turn on after I tried sending the Gcode...
The new 24v fan is working 100% but not in port 0, 1 or 2. I'm only trying to run one fan at the moment not the two just to make sure I can get this working...
Until now I've never plugged anything in to port 0 or 1, so if I messed up Port 2 in the beginning it would mess up ports 0 and 1 as well?
Aforementioned the first set of fans were only 5v so it would be odd that this board is that sensitive and blown mosfet chip and damage the board vs just blowing up the fan???
Is there an issue with the F500 setting? From the factory is was set at F4, but on the mfg forum, everyone said to set that to F500...
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3
If the mosfets are damaged ( in the picture they look fine ) what are the options? Can I just plug it into a always on port?
Also can I plug the fan directly into the board to make sure the cable isn't the issue correct? I'm going to use a multimeter as well, but I want to make sure the pins aren't coming out when I push the plug in...
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Are you definitely still using RepRapFirmware 2.x, not 3.x ?
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
Diagnostics
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23** I used a multimeter on the cable as well to make sure there were no shorts and it was good.
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@dc42 said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:
Are you definitely still using RepRapFirmware 2.x, not 3.x ?
Question: The fuse for the FAN section is for all of the fans correct? At this point I'm open to any suggestions.
I can exchange this board for another one, but I want to make sure that if I get a new one that It works and if I made a mistake somewhere that I don't do that again...
Is there any possible way that I need to flip the connectors over? I know it seams odd since the always on fan works but I had to flip all of the motor connectors of due to the build of the Maestro vs the Wifi boards...
As always THANK YOU !
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The fan fuse is for all the fans.
Don't flip the fan connectors. The board is marked with polarity and your fan should be too. connecting a fan with reversed polarity is a good way to kill the mosfet or the fan or both. If it works in the always on port, then the fan is good and the polarity is correct and your cable is good and the voltage is set correctly.
If you've connected to the correct fan port and have sent the M106 command to turn on the fan but nothing happens, then the mosfet for that fan port is likely damaged.
If that is the case you can potentially replace the mosfet if you're competent with that sort of thing. Or you can use a different fan output if available. It might make sense to put the hotend heatsink fan on the always on port and use a working PWM port for the part cooling fan. If you're still short of fan headers but had a free heater connector you could repurpose that as a fan header.
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@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:
The fan fuse is for all the fans.
Don't flip the fan connectors. The board is marked with polarity and your fan should be too. connecting a fan with reversed polarity is a good way to kill the mosfet or the fan or both. If it works in the always on port, then the fan is good and the polarity is correct and your cable is good and the voltage is set correctly.
If you've connected to the correct fan port and have sent the M106 command to turn on the fan but nothing happens, then the mosfet for that fan port is likely damaged.
If that is the case you can potentially replace the mosfet if you're competent with that sort of thing. Or you can use a different fan output if available. It might make sense to put the hotend heatsink fan on the always on port and use a working PWM port for the part cooling fan. If you're still short of fan headers but had a free heater connector you could repurpose that as a fan header.
I didn't know what else to do so I just hit the reset button as I wanted to try one last thing before I exchanged the board and finally FAN 1 tuned right on with full controllability. This was in FAN 1 as opposed to the stock FAN 2 position. I powered down and then switched back to FAN 2 to check it and it was still not working.
I'm okay with using a different port, but any thoughts on why the reset button worked and why FAN 2 is still down? Basically, if FAN 1 is working I should be fine correct? Is their separate Mosfets for each port or should FAN 2 be working if FAN 1 is?
Thanks !
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How should I configure this to make the nozzle fan use FAN 1 instead of FAN 2 ? Comment out the second line and switch the 3rd line from P2 to P1?
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100% -
@Stephenbright There's no difference in the command you're sending to fan 0, 1 or 2 in the above (they are all set to manual control), so it doesn't really matter. It's only the comment (after the ; ) that's different.
Ian
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The tool definition needs to change to assign the fan you want to the tool.
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@Phaedrux Where is that specifically?
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@Stephenbright said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:
; --- SECTION: TOOLS ( ) ---
; Comment: Remember! H0 is the heated bed!
; Comment: D0 is the first driver after movement (X, Y and Z) drives, which is left extruder
; D1 is right extruder
M98 Pmachine_ktana_tools.g ; Define ktana toolsIn your case, it would appear to be somewhere in here.
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@Stephenbright said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%How do I set these to Auto? I'm guessing that is the Thermostatic setting? Thoughts on what to set that to?
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@Stephenbright use H and T parameters of M106. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M106_Fan_On
The temperature you turn it on is up to you. I have mine set to 45C; hot enough that the fan isn’t on when machine is idle, cold enough that it turns on early when hot end is turned on.
Ian
