@Stephenbright said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

How do I set these to Auto? I'm guessing that is the Thermostatic setting? Thoughts on what to set that to?

@Phaedrux Where is that specifically?

How should I configure this to make the nozzle fan use FAN 1 instead of FAN 2 ? Comment out the second line and switch the 3rd line from P2 to P1?

M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Filter fan. Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3 ; Nozzle fan. Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off, Minimum fan value 0.3, Speed 100%

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

The fan fuse is for all the fans.

Don't flip the fan connectors. The board is marked with polarity and your fan should be too. connecting a fan with reversed polarity is a good way to kill the mosfet or the fan or both. If it works in the always on port, then the fan is good and the polarity is correct and your cable is good and the voltage is set correctly.

If you've connected to the correct fan port and have sent the M106 command to turn on the fan but nothing happens, then the mosfet for that fan port is likely damaged.

If that is the case you can potentially replace the mosfet if you're competent with that sort of thing. Or you can use a different fan output if available. It might make sense to put the hotend heatsink fan on the always on port and use a working PWM port for the part cooling fan. If you're still short of fan headers but had a free heater connector you could repurpose that as a fan header.

@dc42

I didn't know what else to do so I just hit the reset button as I wanted to try one last thing before I exchanged the board and finally FAN 1 tuned right on with full controllability. This was in FAN 1 as opposed to the stock FAN 2 position. I powered down and then switched back to FAN 2 to check it and it was still not working.

I'm okay with using a different port, but any thoughts on why the reset button worked and why FAN 2 is still down? Basically, if FAN 1 is working I should be fine correct? Is their separate Mosfets for each port or should FAN 2 be working if FAN 1 is?

Thanks !

@dc42 said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

Are you definitely still using RepRapFirmware 2.x, not 3.x ?

Question: The fuse for the FAN section is for all of the fans correct? At this point I'm open to any suggestions.

I can exchange this board for another one, but I want to make sure that if I get a new one that It works and if I made a mistake somewhere that I don't do that again...

Is there any possible way that I need to flip the connectors over? I know it seams odd since the always on fan works but I had to flip all of the motor connectors of due to the build of the Maestro vs the Wifi boards...

As always THANK YOU !

@dc42

Diagnostics
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23

** I used a multimeter on the cable as well to make sure there were no shorts and it was good.

@Phaedrux said in Switching from Duet Maestro to Duet WIFI:

Running the fans in parallel is a bit better than running 2 in series. I've done it on occasion, but it does mean the fans may not behave exactly as they would plugged in solo.

In a parallel circuit, the voltage across each of the components is the same, and the total current is the sum of the currents flowing through each component.

So as long as your two fans aren't huge current draws (most fans aren't) you should be ok.

The fan still does not turn on after I tried sending the Gcode...

The new 24v fan is working 100% but not in port 0, 1 or 2. I'm only trying to run one fan at the moment not the two just to make sure I can get this working...

Until now I've never plugged anything in to port 0 or 1, so if I messed up Port 2 in the beginning it would mess up ports 0 and 1 as well?

Aforementioned the first set of fans were only 5v so it would be odd that this board is that sensitive and blown mosfet chip and damage the board vs just blowing up the fan???

Is there an issue with the F500 setting? From the factory is was set at F4, but on the mfg forum, everyone said to set that to F500...

M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 L0.3

If the mosfets are damaged ( in the picture they look fine ) what are the options? Can I just plug it into a always on port?

Also can I plug the fan directly into the board to make sure the cable isn't the issue correct? I'm going to use a multimeter as well, but I want to make sure the pins aren't coming out when I push the plug in...

@Phaedrux The new fans are rated Voltage:24V 0.06A each for the two fans. It was a poor design on the part of the printer manufacturer to have the dual 5v fans on one port for such a large printer in the first place... I'll update the process soon. Thanks !

@droftarts

I didn't realize when I started to reconfigured my machine that I didn't update the DWC. I'll do that.

Also the 24v fans came in today. With my new 24v fans they are currently 2 separate fans, can I run those in parallel and they would both get 24v correct? Basically two fans into one port, red wire to red wire and black wire to black wire? Thoughts?

** The stock nozzle fans were 2 separate 5v fans in parallel into one port so I would guess they were both getting 5v?

Thoughts?

@droftarts

Firmware: 2.05.1 (2020-02-09b1)

DWC: 1.22.1

None of the Mosfets look blown. Again it's a new board and I haven't printed anything as soon as I noticed that the nozzle fans were not on. I realize is can blow quick but with the fuses and the lower voltage fan, I would think the fuse or the fan would blow before anything else...

I had the 5v fans installed and I know those were probably blown due to the jumper not set the same as a Maestro from the factory...

No I did not type the gcode in the address bar...

I have 24v fans coming, but I wanted to make sure they were working so I am trying to work with the 2 - 12v fans. I thought they would at least work so I know the board is set up correctly. Long term yes I will use the 24v fans. I can install them and can report back then as I don't want to do any damage...

Until then I had tried to send the gcode you suggested while the fan was plugged into P2 only. I didn't want to try the other ports until I get the 24v fans **

When I type :

M106 P2 S1 H-1 ; Fan2

I get :

PMM106 P1 S0
PMM106 P0 S0
PMM106 S0

Then a JAVA error and DWC disconnects?

Thank you !