BLTouch v3.1 not lighting up on Duet 3 6HC
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Also, since I'm having trouble uploading images to the site directly, I used an Image Hosting board to link to the aforementioned screen cap. The Highlighted "1000" underneath the Z Probe will sporadically switch between a "0" or "1000". The only thing that I've been able to observe in relation to this is that the VIN seems to fluctuate at a somewhat similar rate.
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@Canis_DIngus said in BLTouch v3.1 not lighting up on Duet 3 6HC:
Scrolling through the manual for the BLTouch, you can find the M280 commands that will make the probe switch between 3.3V and 5V settings. While I had it wired up to the old Creality board, I tried to set the probe back to the default but couldn't get the LEDs to trip one way or another.
Is this the procedure you tried?
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@Phaedrux Not that exact method. I used the method listed in the manual, but there appears to be a discrepancy between the two sources, as your link mentions pulling the push pin out and then entering a final command, whereas the push pin isn't even mentioned in their v3.1 manual...
This does present an interesting question though; between the 3.3V and 5V, which format would I want to use for the BLTouch? I would assume that the 5V since it's wired into the +5V pin on the Board? In that same regard, if switching to that 5V format resolves this issue, then wouldn't switching the BLTouch 5V wire to the 3.3V pin in the IO port achieve the same result without (potentially) compromising a controller board that isn't rated for 5V logic?
Antclabs mentions this about the BLTouch:
"However, some boards still produce large capacitors, which negatively affects sensor operation. Of course around 0.1㎌(100㎋) is not a problem. BLTouch does not operate normally with a large capacitor in the Z-Stop. And we do not guarantee its normal operation."I looked at the Github page which has the board schematics for my particular version (v1.01), and looking at the IO ports capacitors, they all appear to have the 2n2 rating, which using a General Capacitor Codebreaker Chart rates said capacitors at 2.2 Nanofarad (nF), or .0022 Microfarad (µF). If I'm understanding this correctly, the capacitor ratings on the IO ports should not (emphasis on should there) warrant a switch to the 5V logic system?
Call it semantics, but the link from Antclabs on Large Capacitors in this post doesn't explicitly state that a capacitor rating higher than 100 nF warrants switching the BLTouch to 5V Logic, but rather suggests removing the capacitor outright. however Antclabs does site the boards with large capacity capacitors as the reason for switching to the 5V logic... so maybe that is causation rather than correlation?
I mean, seeing as how the steps outlined in the manual don't align with the instructions on their website, maybe that's a fair conclusion to make.
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The Duet 3 and later Duet 2 boards are all 5v tolerant, so there hasn't been a need to force 3.3v mode on the BLtouch for quite some time.
Based on the steps in the logic mode link, which mode are you currently running in?
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@Phaedrux Assuming I'm interpreting the Signal Timing Diagram from Antclabs chart correctly, I think I'm in 3.3V mode. I would post a video, but our DSL internet line would probably have an aneurysm trying to handle that. So, to give an order of events as they occur:
(Using Creality Board with BLTouch Connected)
- USB connection to PC w/ Simplify3D Machine Control Panel Open
1.a Board LEDs activate, confirming power supply - BLTouch Red LED Activates
- BLTouch runs Push Pin Self Test
Now here's why I say I think it's in 3.3V. At the same time, and in sync with, the Push Pin Self Test, the Red LED does flash 3 times. If that were preceding the Self Test, that would indicate a 5V setting on the BLTouch, per the Signal Timing Diagram from the Antclab page on v3.1. However, in my case, the LED flashing occurs at the same time and in sync with the Self Test.
Regardless of what I think I'm seeing and what is actually happening, I went ahead and followed the instructions you posted, and repeating Steps 2-6 a couple of times to ensure that it takes hold.
It may be worth noting that in the link you posted, Step 5 states:
"Step 5: Pull the push-pin with your finger so that the red LED turns off."
After the first round of following the instructions, the LED did not come on when the 2 pin wiring was disconnected from the board. Being a firm believer in Murphy's Law, I went ahead and repeated the process 3 more times.
I then connected the BLTouch to the Duet 3 again to see if this fixed the issue. Unfortunately the LED does not activate, BUT the Z Probe sensor in DWC has stopped flickering. With the Push Pin currently retracted, the Sensor is holding at "1000" with the Red Highlight (as seen in the screen shot) rather than switching between the 1000 and 0 readings as it was before. Progress?
- USB connection to PC w/ Simplify3D Machine Control Panel Open
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Does it respond to deploy and retract commands?
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@Phaedrux Doesn't seem to; sent M280 P0 S10 to see if I could illicit any response. No such luck. I even tried pulling the pin out to see if I could trigger the Z-probe to read "0" instead of "1000"; nothing.
What I did notice though, when touching the BLTouch to pull the probe out, the equipment is quite warm, or at least warmer than I would expect it to be. Maybe that's throwing off the magnetic points on the probe? I wouldn't think that would prevent the LED from lighting up, but maybe that's another symptom that the heat is connected to.
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How hot are we talking here?
Showing 1000 instead of 0 would mean the signal should be inverted, but that's not usual.
Are you sure the wiring is all good?
Can you send M98 P"config.g" and report any errors?
Can you try setting up in standalone mode just to test the probe?
You'll just need a separate SD card with a /sys and /www folder. In sys place your config files and in /www you'll need the DWC files. Disconnect the SBC and put the SD card in the Duet.
Also just in case there is something else gone wrong with the config files, try creating a completely fresh set with the configurator and trying with those.
To eliminate the extension wiring, try connecting the Bltouch to the board with the short leads connected directly to the probe.
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M98 P"config.g" reports an overpowering of the Heated Bed (or Heater 1, which is a whole other issue I need to address. Will probably make a separate post about that once the BLTouch snag gets resolved), but that's about it:
M98 P"config.g"
Warning: M307: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 365C
Heater 0 model: gain 340.0, time constant 140.0, dead time 5.5, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode PID
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P13.4, I0.482, D51.4
Computed PID parameters for load change: P13.4, I0.949, D51.4As for how hot, using a multimeter with Temperature Measuring, in the ballpark of 50C, which makes me think there's some exposed wiring occurring somewhere along the line, since the continuity checked out. Assuming that the excessive heat is caused by bad wiring, and given that the heat was on the BLTouch itself, that would imply that the connection from the BLTouch to the short wiring would be the source, right? The IO_7 port didn't feel hot (sorry, didn't think to check it with the multimeter, see Username for excuse), nor did any of the wiring that I did myself.
As for the standalone mode, I'll have to check that tomorrow and then report what findings I get from that, as it's past my bedtime with my current work schedule.
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Yeah 50c on the bltouch seems pretty crazy.
The heater warning is a warning. See here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/FAQ#Section_M307_Heater_1_appears_to_be_over_powered_If_left_on_at_full_power_its_temperature_is_predicted_to_reach_521C
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@Phaedrux So... when you asked about the wiring, I only checked the connections that I had made.
So my father used to work in HVAC with 30+ years experience with electrical work in his background, starting with him as a kid investigating what would happen if a bobby pen were to be inserted into an electrical outlet (he did this twice, of course, to see if the results were repeatable). I've been keeping him updated and bouncing ideas off of him in regards to this BLTouch endeavor. When I mentioned to him the heat production, he immediately thought that wiring was either crossing somewhere or coming into contact with metal. I explained the continuity checked out, but a continuity check merely confirms that either ends of a tested wire are in fact connected.
This morning I put together the stand-alone build, including new files from the RRF Config Tool, did troubleshooting on the YAT since it didn't feel like working initially, learned how to share a wifi connection through the ethernet port on my pc, and got the Duet to connect to a dedicated IP since the router and printers are on opposite ends of the house. I opened up DWC to find that the Probe was, once again, giving sporadic reads as it had been before.
It was at that point that the thought finally dawned on me to check all, as in ALL, the connections involved with the BLTouch. I figured that the wiring that came pre-assembled with the unit would be fine since the equipment worked with the previous board. when I started looking closer though, I found this.
If you look closely, between the Red and Blue wiring, there is a single strand from the Blue Wire that is feeding into the Red Wire Connection point. In fact, almost all the connections have exposed and/or warped wiring (note how the white wire isn't even connected at this point; it just snapped loose as I removed the short wiring from the protective wire wrap)
Now a few days back I purchased a Precision Piezo Orion to connect to a new E3D V6 set, which finally arrived yesterday. I ultimately planned on switching the components out, but wanted to see if I could get the BLTouch to work before it arrived. I intend to rewire the BLTouch to be repurposed for a separate Direct Drive Printer using the Creality board pulled from this one, so for now I think we might have found the issue to this particular case. If I get the wiring done back up before I finish the Hot End and Piezo conversion, I might plug it in just to confirm if that was the issue.
With all that said, I want to thank you for helping me investigate the source of this problem, and everyone on this forum, as there were multiple posts that helped me finetune the system files and broaden my understanding of the RRF Gcode system as a whole.
Until Next Time!
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Glad you figured i out. Sometimes a magnifying glass is just what you need!
