PT100 reading too high at higher temps
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As I started to get calibration and other settings finished up, I started to get REALLY crappy prints. Far worse than when my Rostock was driven by the original Rambo. And I thought the Duet was supposed to be a massive upgrade! At first I was pointing fingers at my speed/jerk/accel settings etc. However, I have double and triple checked them, not that I'm 100% convinced they are truly correct, anyhow…
I started to note extrusion problems at my usual 215C nozzle temp for PLA. Extruder gear grinding etc. So I thought that was a bit odd and pulled out the meters.
Multimeter used - Fluke 123 industrial scopemeter
Thermometer used - Fluke 54IIB with K-type thermocouple probe & Fluke Ti1110 IR cam as double verification
PT100 sensors came from Filastruder, as are the DuetWifi and the PT100 board.Readings were taken with the K-type probe wedged in the crack of the clamp that holds the heater cartridge in the E3D heater block. Hot end is E3D v6 with 40w heater cartridge, E3D plated copper-alloy heater block, and E3D v6 silicone sock in place. So the probe was in contact with the heater and block and enclosed by the silicone sock!
Here are the results:
PT00 sensors read 108.2-109 Ohms @ room temp ~22C. This seems on par with the tables.
Measurement from the hot end of the sensor wiring to the PT100 board comes in at a grand 00.1 Ohms without the PT100 attached.
Duet temp set PanelDue reading Fluke K probe reading
60 60 55.5
80 80 73.9
120 120 112
140 140.2 131
200 199.9 188.3
220 220.2 207.8
250 250.1 237.3
280 280.2 266.9
300 300.1 286.7And now for my current settings......
I ran through the heater/thermistor calibration multiple times.
M303 H1 S300
M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 458.0, time constant 250.7, dead time 3.5, max PWM 1.00, mode: PID
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P27.9, I0.111, D68.4
Computed PID parameters for load change: P27.9, I2.405, D68.4config-override.g :
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 A107.7 C801.5 D4.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H1 A458.0 C250.7 D3.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H2 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H3 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H4 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H5 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H6 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0
M307 H7 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 B0config.g
; Thermistors
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 H3 L300 ; #AUTOCONFIG Set bed thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
;M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 X200 ; #AUTOCONFIG Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1 and remap it to channel 200
M305 P1 X200; Heaters
; H1
M143 S305 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 305C, using E3D v6 & PT100
M307 H1 A340.7 C160.0 D3.5 B0 -
Regardless of anything else (measurement errors and so forth), whether you are printing PLA at 215 deg C or 200 deg C isn't enough to make the extruder grind away at the filament - I'd say you've got a blockage or partial blockage.
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Yeah I'd say you are about as close as you normally get with a K type placed somewhere on the heater block. You can't read the actual temperature without inserting the K type into the hole where the pt100 goes and the thermal conductivity to/from the K type tip just isn't that great.
Makes me wonder why they don't put two sensors into each cartridge?
Turn it up to 230 (indicated) is the problem solved?
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I somewhat disagree. I'm well aware of how this PLA extrudes at 200 and there is NO way it would not grind at 200C printing at 60mm/s+, that is not enough heat to melt fast enough. And very much would explain the gaps and sparse material I was seeing.
Blockage or no, if I set the temp to 215/240C and push PLA/PETT I know how it felt in the past (Pre Duet PT100 upgrade)…nice and smooth with little force required. I'm not getting that, now it takes a LOT of force, until I increase temp by 20 or so over what it should be. At that point it feels like I'm used to, nice and smooth with little force. If it were a simple clog, I'd imagine setting 20C over would yield over-temp symptoms I'm familiar with, like burning/discoloration, etc. I've also done multiple cleansing runs of nylon to ensure a clear nozzle, done cold/atomic pulls, etc. Clearing the nozzle path isn't the problem as far as I can tell. I can see clean light through the hole and I've done every clearing method I've used for over 4 years to clear blockages.
I got the upgrade to PT100 because it is supposed to be much more accurate than the old standard SEMITEC 104, plus it can handle the much higher temps that I require (also why I got the all copper-alloy heater block as the standard aluminum block becomes unstable over 300C). I've seen here on the forum and on the SeeMeCNC forum and other places that the PT100 'just works' with the M305 P1 X200 setting...I'm not seeing that evidence. And the RepRap Firmware Config tool doesn't even have proper provisions for setting the PT100 so I'm going off what I can find. I guess in the end whether or not I have a clog is nearly irrelevant as it is nowhere near accurate and I cannot figure out WHY & HOW do I fix it.
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Those probe thermocouples aren't terribly accurate, because there's very little conducting area since you're jamming a sphere between two parallel surfaces - you only get a tiny contact area. But the rest of the probe (the wires) acts like a heatsink.
As a result they tend to read 3-7% percent low, which is what you're seeing (~5% low).
I print PLA at 235C. I suspect that your previous setup was reading incorrectly, and you're setting that (known to be less accurate) as the mental standard and using a measurement technique that is flawed to support your hypothesis.
What happens when you print at 230C?
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I think the PT100 is probably reading correctly. There is no calibration involved with the PT100, the accuracy depends only on the chip (which is guaranteed to be accurate to 0.5C), a 0.1% tolerance low temperature coefficient resistor, the sensor, and the resistance of the PT100 connecting wires and any connectors involved (unless you use a 4-wire connection). Additional resistance causes an increase in the reading of about 0.4C per ohm. So if you are getting good readings at room temperature, you are probably getting good readings at higher temperatures too. You can always try the other channel if you suspect a fault.
It's hard to get an accurate reading from a thermocouple on the outside of the hot end, because it's difficult to get good thermal contact and the thermocouple leads conduct heat away from it. A better way to measure the temperature with a thermocouple is probably to feed the thermocouple into the hot end in place of the filament, so that it sits in a pool of molten filament at the bottom. Even then, it won't be at quite the same temperature as the PT100 in the heater block.
You can check the accuracy of the PT100 interface by substituting a fixed resistor for the PT100 and comparing the reading you get with what the tables give for that resistance.
Also bear in mind that if your printer was previously using a thermistor, then its temperature reading probably wasn't very accurate.
BTW, 215C seems to me rather high for regular PLA. I use 205C first layer and 195C after that, using PLA from either RigidInk or Esun and a E3Dv6 hot end. But filaments and hot ends vary, in particular there are some modified PLA filaments that need higher temperatures.
HTH David
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Yeah I'd say you are about as close as you normally get with a K type placed somewhere on the heater block. You can't read the actual temperature without inserting the K type into the hole where the pt100 goes and the thermal conductivity to/from the K type tip just isn't that great.
Makes me wonder why they don't put two sensors into each cartridge?
Turn it up to 230 (indicated) is the problem solved?
Yea I definitely expect some level of reduction of course as the probe isn't making fantastic physical contact..that's a duh.
And yes I did actually insert the probe into PT100 cartridge hole, so it sat there with the probe, but again without better thermal transfer…idk exactly what to expect for the offset. I debated on using some thermal transfer compound, but I'm not convinced that would yield much better results. I even ran it down the filament path as far as it would go.Either way with the probe RIGHT AGAINST the heater cartridge I would have expected higher temp readings than that of the PT100, especially since I can actually see light around the PT100 cartridge through the probe hole, so even it isn't making superb thermal contact. Plus as the heat rises, the PT100 reading grows farther away.
So I just swapped out PT100 cartridges, JUST remembered we had ordered a couple spares, and set nozzle to 260C. I let it sit there a moment and then I unplugged the PT100 and took Ohm reading on it, got ~197 Ohm which falls pretty close to the resistance tables. I also see and feel PLA flowing as I'd expect it to @215C...and at @260C ha. Yet the other PT100 also read 108.4 at room temp...so idk.
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I think the PT100 is probably reading correctly. There is no calibration involved with the PT100, the accuracy depends only on the chip (which is guaranteed to be accurate to 0.5C), a 0.1% tolerance low temperature coefficient resistor, the sensor, and the resistance of the PT100 connecting wires and any connectors involved (unless you use a 4-wire connection). Additional resistance causes an increase in the reading of about 0.4C per ohm. So if you are getting good readings at room temperature, you are probably getting good readings at higher temperatures too. You can always try the other channel if you suspect a fault.
It's hard to get an accurate reading from a thermocouple on the outside of the hot end, because it's difficult to get good thermal contact and the thermocouple leads conduct heat away from it. A better way to measure the temperature with a thermocouple is probably to feed the thermocouple into the hot end in place of the filament, so that it sits in a pool of molten filament at the bottom. Even then, it won't be at quite the same temperature as the PT100 in the heater block.
You can check the accuracy of the PT100 interface by substituting a fixed resistor for the PT100 and comparing the reading you get with what the tables give for that resistance.
Also bear in mind that if your printer was previously using a thermistor, then its temperature reading probably wasn't very accurate.
BTW, 215C seems to me rather high for regular PLA. I use 205C first layer and 195C after that, using PLA from either RigidInk or Esun and a E3Dv6 hot end. But filaments and hot ends vary, in particular there are some modified PLA filaments that need higher temperatures.
HTH David
Ok, yea I couldn't find ANY info on 'tuning' a PT100 so it definitely seemed like it either works or doesn't. After reading your info on 2 wire vs 4 wire I concluded that 4 wasn't necessary for my setup as I wasn't seeing any notable increase in resistance.
Because I know getting thermal contact is a PITA for a tiny probe bead, that's why I used the IR cam as a backup, but that has its own faults when measuring shiny things like the ultra shiny copper alloy heater block!
As far as 215 being high, you may be right due to all previous experience being with thermistors! 215 (in this case SeeMeCNC brand PLA) was derived at via testing and tuning. I don't print ANY filament at recommended settings blindly. I run multiple test prints for layer adhesion at a wide range of temps and speeds. 215 is what has worked to get the best combination of strength and quality of print. I use this method on multiple Rostock machines at home and work. And at home on Maker Select and CR10. Some other brands of PLA I get good results at 205, but NEVER have I had 195 yield good layer adhesion and end part strength…ever. But...up till now ALL machines I've used are SEMITEC 104GT2...soo...idk Only recently have I used RigidInk and it did well at 205 and I've seen OK results from Hatchbox at 205. I've never used Esun. I mostly print in PETT/PETG anyhow.
I know what burning filament looks and smells like...so I know 215 isn't TOO hot.I may try the other channel just for the sake of thorough evaluation...but that will have to wait till next week post holiday.
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Ok, yea I couldn't find ANY info on 'tuning' a PT100 so it definitely seemed like it either works or doesn't. After reading your info on 2 wire vs 4 wire I concluded that 4 wasn't necessary for my setup as I wasn't seeing any notable increase in resistance.
Because I know getting thermal contact is a PITA for a tiny probe bead, that's why I used the IR cam as a backup, but that has its own faults when measuring shiny things like the ultra shiny copper alloy heater block!
As far as 215 being high, you may be right due to all previous experience being with thermistors! 215 (in this case SeeMeCNC brand PLA) was derived at via testing and tuning. I don't print ANY filament at recommended settings blindly. I run multiple test prints for layer adhesion at a wide range of temps and speeds. 215 is what has worked to get the best combination of strength and quality of print. I use this method on multiple Rostock machines at home and work. And at home on Maker Select and CR10. Some other brands of PLA I get good results at 205, but NEVER have I had 195 yield good layer adhesion and end part strength…ever. But...up till now ALL machines I've used are SEMITEC 104GT2...soo...idk Only recently have I used RigidInk and it did well at 205 and I've seen OK results from Hatchbox at 205. I've never used Esun. I mostly print in PETT/PETG anyhow.
I know what burning filament looks and smells like...so I know 215 isn't TOO hot.I may try the other channel just for the sake of thorough evaluation...but that will have to wait till next week post holiday.
I have pretty much the same setup as you, E3D V6 with Copper heat block and copper nozzle .4mm with PT100 board in 2 wire configuration. While I agree with others you cannot accurately measure temp with that external sensor (I own one and used one during my setup of this printer). My experience is that this combo is dead on accurate with its temp readings and does a really good job of maintaining temp within .1 degree
As soon as my hotend reaches the 190 mark my PLA begins a slight ooze from the nozzle and by the time it hits 205c it is ready to print (my preferred temp so far with this combo). I have it setup so it homes after heating the nozzle then moves off to the side and extrudes 30mm of filament before moving back to the bed to begin printing. I am getting insanely clean and accurate prints. One thing I did add in to the setup that has seemed to make very noticeable improvements is a Capricorn PTFE tube, I ordered the low friction version https://www.filastruder.com/products/capricorn-ptfe-tubing?variant=45539850511 I also printed a bowden coupler clip to keep the coupler from bouncing up and down during high retraction https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1330497
Here are my settings:[c]
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z2560.00 E100 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X3600 Y3600 Z3600 E7000 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z400 E7000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3600 Y3600 Z3600 E7000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X765 Y850 Z850 E850 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent[/c]My extruder is a bowden and not geared and the extrusion coming out the other end is exactly 100mm
So my question: are you sure with hotend detached that with your current settings, your hotend pushes exactly 100mm of filament? Also do you have pressure advance enabled? [c]M572 D0 S0.1[/c]
If you do then you should know that pressure advance if configured incorrectly can cause a lot of grinding…. i had that issue when I accidentally had M572 D0 S1.0 in my slicer start script instead of M572 D0 S0.1 and was doing a retract heavy print.
If you have pressure advance configured in config.g go ahead and remove it from there and create yourself a macro to do some testing:
[c]G1 E100 F300 ; Extrude[/c]
Heat up your hotend first to 205c and then run this macro then increase the F parameter by increments of 50 until you notice grinding…. this will be your max flow rate for that temp, then repeat the same test with 210 and again with 215.... if all of these tests can do up to F300 then your flowrate is fine in those temps for 60mm/s and the problem is not with temperature or jamming.
A great print to dial all this in is this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607968
It is a serious torture test at high speeds so I would suggest starting with 40mm/s
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Thanks for the input!! I'll look into the Capricorn PTFE. The only downer there is the lack of translucency for the ultra slick variety. But I suppose it is a worthwhile trade for being extra slick for long runs. So far I haven't had any issues with needing a clip, I always keep pressure on the tube when I push it in and use my fingernail to pull up on the built in clips and then double check from time to time that the tube has no play. Thus far I still haven't had a single instance of there being slop since I started that method.
Looking at your settings I see some rather glaring differences to what I've gleaned for the Rostock!
How do you get that Z2560 for M92 steps/mm?? That's crazy… most of my settings were either pulled from my RAMBo EEPROM or from mhackney's Duet config.Currently I have:
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E92.65My motor currents are based on the same 1 amp used with the RAMBo for the Automation Tech steppers.
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30
Acceleration is based on what was used on RAMBo and what I've seen from others on the SeeMeCNC forum
M201 X1850 Y1850 Z1850 E6500
Max speeds taken from previous firmware
M203 X21000 Y21000 Z21000 E6000
Jerk taken from previous firmware and not increased based on mhackney and others on SeeMeCNC forum settings
M566 X2100 Y2100 Z2100 E1200I had pressure advance set, but I thought it may be causing problems since I've never used it before. So I commented it out to work on later.
As for extrusion calibration... 99.443 is the average extrusion amount. So I'm pretty happy with that, but could be a little better. And my steps/mm for the extruder are 92.65.
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Ok, yea I couldn't find ANY info on 'tuning' a PT100 so it definitely seemed like it either works or doesn't. After reading your info on 2 wire vs 4 wire I concluded that 4 wasn't necessary for my setup as I wasn't seeing any notable increase in resistance.
Because I know getting thermal contact is a PITA for a tiny probe bead, that's why I used the IR cam as a backup, but that has its own faults when measuring shiny things like the ultra shiny copper alloy heater block!
As far as 215 being high, you may be right due to all previous experience being with thermistors! 215 (in this case SeeMeCNC brand PLA) was derived at via testing and tuning. I don't print ANY filament at recommended settings blindly. I run multiple test prints for layer adhesion at a wide range of temps and speeds. 215 is what has worked to get the best combination of strength and quality of print. I use this method on multiple Rostock machines at home and work. And at home on Maker Select and CR10. Some other brands of PLA I get good results at 205, but NEVER have I had 195 yield good layer adhesion and end part strength…ever. But...up till now ALL machines I've used are SEMITEC 104GT2...soo...idk Only recently have I used RigidInk and it did well at 205 and I've seen OK results from Hatchbox at 205. I've never used Esun. I mostly print in PETT/PETG anyhow.
I know what burning filament looks and smells like...so I know 215 isn't TOO hot.I may try the other channel just for the sake of thorough evaluation...but that will have to wait till next week post holiday.
I have pretty much the same setup as you, E3D V6 with Copper heat block and copper nozzle .4mm with PT100 board in 2 wire configuration. While I agree with others you cannot accurately measure temp with that external sensor (I own one and used one during my setup of this printer). My experience is that this combo is dead on accurate with its temp readings and does a really good job of maintaining temp within .1 degree
As soon as my hotend reaches the 190 mark my PLA begins a slight ooze from the nozzle and by the time it hits 205c it is ready to print (my preferred temp so far with this combo). I have it setup so it homes after heating the nozzle then moves off to the side and extrudes 30mm of filament before moving back to the bed to begin printing. I am getting insanely clean and accurate prints. One thing I did add in to the setup that has seemed to make very noticeable improvements is a Capricorn PTFE tube, I ordered the low friction version https://www.filastruder.com/products/capricorn-ptfe-tubing?variant=45539850511 I also printed a bowden coupler clip to keep the coupler from bouncing up and down during high retraction https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1330497
Here are my settings:[c]
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z2560.00 E100 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X3600 Y3600 Z3600 E7000 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z400 E7000 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3600 Y3600 Z3600 E7000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X765 Y850 Z850 E850 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent[/c]My extruder is a bowden and not geared and the extrusion coming out the other end is exactly 100mm
So my question: are you sure with hotend detached that with your current settings, your hotend pushes exactly 100mm of filament? Also do you have pressure advance enabled? [c]M572 D0 S0.1[/c]
If you do then you should know that pressure advance if configured incorrectly can cause a lot of grinding…. i had that issue when I accidentally had M572 D0 S1.0 in my slicer start script instead of M572 D0 S0.1 and was doing a retract heavy print.
If you have pressure advance configured in config.g go ahead and remove it from there and create yourself a macro to do some testing:
[c]G1 E100 F300 ; Extrude[/c]
Heat up your hotend first to 205c and then run this macro then increase the F parameter by increments of 50 until you notice grinding…. this will be your max flow rate for that temp, then repeat the same test with 210 and again with 215.... if all of these tests can do up to F300 then your flowrate is fine in those temps for 60mm/s and the problem is not with temperature or jamming.
A great print to dial all this in is this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:607968
It is a serious torture test at high speeds so I would suggest starting with 40mm/s
Just learned that trick on the e3d v6 ptfe retainer today! thanks for the link to the clip, could come in handy! Looking at ptfe upgrade too
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printed e3d ptfe tube clip and it works great, Thanks! The retract settings are now 6mm so that helps with jamming but still leaving a blob at start\ stop points(retract and wipe enabled)… kills print quality so got to figure that out... slowly but surely Thanks again Whitewolf! I will be watching to see how that pressure advance pans out. I am thinking i want to give it a try.
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Do this next…. turn off all retraction.... print 40 mm cube with 0 top layers and 0 bottom layers and 1 perimeter. Adjust your pressure advance until you find the sweet spot.... then and only the start increasing your retraction little by little... start with a low retraction like 0.75 and move up little by little it shouldnt be 6mm retraction if you have done this
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So Whitewolf, why are you using such a drastic Z steps/mm??
I've recalibrated my extruder steps/mm and now I'm bang on to 100mm, minus flex/takeup inside the Bowden tube as there is some internal slop. I'm still not using pressure advance, but my prints look like absolute crap.
Somehow suddenly square corners aren't square. And by that I mean they aren't 90 degrees anymore. And my bed still seems high on the right side. I thought autocalibration was supposed to handle that leveling.
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Do this next…. turn off all retraction.... print 40 mm cube with 0 top layers and 0 bottom layers and 1 perimeter. Adjust your pressure advance until you find the sweet spot.... then and only the start increasing your retraction little by little... start with a low retraction like 0.75 and move up little by little it shouldnt be 6mm retraction if you have done this
Thanks Whitewolf! the blobbing is killing print quality. if i print with "aligned" at least the blob is in the same spot, "random" makes prints look terrible… I am not using pressure advance but think i might need to make the switch. 1 thing I am pretty sure of is extruder is calibrated and i do get 100mm exactly at end of bowden tube so should be good there. I also tried reducing extrusion % but that just leaves gaps in parts so i dont think it is over extruding issue, got to be something with retract and restart of print after move. I can see slop in my tube so am looking forward to replacement to see if that helps too.
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So Whitewolf, why are you using such a drastic Z steps/mm??
I've recalibrated my extruder steps/mm and now I'm bang on to 100mm, minus flex/takeup inside the Bowden tube as there is some internal slop. I'm still not using pressure advance, but my prints look like absolute crap.
Somehow suddenly square corners aren't square. And by that I mean they aren't 90 degrees anymore. And my bed still seems high on the right side. I thought autocalibration was supposed to handle that leveling.
Z step per mm will be drastically different for every machine…. I have a 1.25 pitch leadscrew direct driven 400 is as fast as i can get it before it stalls... DC said his can only do 100 based on his configuration.
Not sure what is causing the rounded corners... are you sure pressure advance is off both in config.g and config override as well as start g code in your slicer
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Do this next…. turn off all retraction.... print 40 mm cube with 0 top layers and 0 bottom layers and 1 perimeter. Adjust your pressure advance until you find the sweet spot.... then and only the start increasing your retraction little by little... start with a low retraction like 0.75 and move up little by little it shouldnt be 6mm retraction if you have done this
Thanks Whitewolf! the blobbing is killing print quality. if i print with "aligned" at least the blob is in the same spot, "random" makes prints look terrible… I am not using pressure advance but think i might need to make the switch. 1 thing I am pretty sure of is extruder is calibrated and i do get 100mm exactly at end of bowden tube so should be good there. I also tried reducing extrusion % but that just leaves gaps in parts so i dont think it is over extruding issue, got to be something with retract and restart of print after move. I can see slop in my tube so am looking forward to replacement to see if that helps too.
it will help a lot just a warning you will have to recalibrate everything once getting that new tube…. just follow my above post to dial in calibration once you do.
It helps to do this for every filament... I have a filament that pressure advance does not play nice with at all.
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So Whitewolf, why are you using such a drastic Z steps/mm??
I've recalibrated my extruder steps/mm and now I'm bang on to 100mm, minus flex/takeup inside the Bowden tube as there is some internal slop. I'm still not using pressure advance, but my prints look like absolute crap.
Somehow suddenly square corners aren't square. And by that I mean they aren't 90 degrees anymore. And my bed still seems high on the right side. I thought autocalibration was supposed to handle that leveling.
Z step per mm will be drastically different for every machine…. I have a 1.25 pitch leadscrew direct driven 400 is as fast as i can get it before it stalls... DC said his can only do 100 based on his configuration.
Not sure what is causing the rounded corners... are you sure pressure advance is off both in config.g and config override as well as start g code in your slicer
Ahhh ok, for some reason I thought you were also running a Rostock so I was like..whaaaat? That's why it didn't make sense to me.
Pressure advance definitely disabled in config.g and doesn't even exist in config-override.g. The odd thing about the square issue is that the outside corners are fine. I've put my machinist squares on them and they're basically perfect 90. As well as an FDM plastic 90 can be anyhow. It's just the inside corners on a hollow square column that made me notice in the first place.
I just checked belt tension and the X tower has almost 2oz more tension than the others, with Z being lightest of all of three. I have no clue how much tension differential could be playing a part, but my other Rostocks I all have within .5oz of each other. Not sure what happened to this one to make it this far off, but I'll rectify that shortly.
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its funny how that works… I had everything dialed in then about a week ago everything went bad but only on two corners of a square. It was acting like an extrusion issue. At first i thought it was something i changed so i went through a lot of cubes and settings trying to get it to extrude correctly. Then i tried a cold pull with nylon.... then i realized it was a flaw in the x carriage design which the faster speeds put a small crack in my x carriage that allowed flex but only affected it when moving from x minima and y minima due to carriage design.
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Well I just ran
Room temp bed G32
Bed probe heights: 0.345 -0.136 0.308 0.302 -0.233 -0.201 -0.018 -0.385 -0.098 -0.021 0.223 0.127 -0.085 -0.134 -0.135 -0.095, mean -0.015, deviation from mean 0.20860C bed G32
Bed probe heights: 0.495 0.039 0.471 0.477 -0.095 -0.076 0.132 -0.260 0.015 0.091 0.335 0.227 0.053 -0.047 -0.035 -0.008, mean 0.113, deviation from mean 0.219So that doesn't look great. And I just noticed that the X carriage seems to have a lot more friction and resistance to movement than the other two carriages. I didn't notice before I guess because the belt tension was so much higher than the other belts. Now it is quite obvious so…off to figure out why it is significantly worse.
