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    Inaccurate temp measurement?

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    Tuning and tweaking
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    • Whitewolfundefined
      Whitewolf
      last edited by

      What does the temp say when no heat is on, does it match room temp?

      Exploring the universe wherever the tech blows

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      • Scottbg1undefined
        Scottbg1
        last edited by

        I am using an E3DV6 and the new style temp cartridge.
        When the nozzle is cool it matches room temperature.

        Both the nozzle and bed temp at idle are 24C.
        Another reason I am stumped because it matches the bed temp.

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        • Whitewolfundefined
          Whitewolf
          last edited by

          Sounds like your settings for it are correct. I missed that part about room temp in the origional post. You shouldnt have to go so high in temp. Is there a part blower turned on? also are your steps/mm calculated correctly for Z

          Exploring the universe wherever the tech blows

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          • Scottbg1undefined
            Scottbg1
            last edited by

            Yes, I have a cooling fan that I set at 100%.
            This is the same speed I have on my other printer.
            Maybe set it for 50% and try that?

            I am quite confident in my step settings in config.g.
            I put a ruler on the bed and measured the movement of the nozzle compared to the distance I moved X and Y. I adjusted accordingly. I stood a ruler up vertical to measure the bed(Z) movement and have it nailed down the same way.
            I did the extruder the same way, by measuring the amount of filament it moved.

            I'll try a slower fan speed and report back. I don't know why I didn't think of that before.
            Thank you sir!

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            • Scottbg1undefined
              Scottbg1
              last edited by

              Whitewolf,

              The slower fan didn't help enough to say that is the culprit, but it hit me when thinking about your question if the Z steps were accurate. Even though I measured the bed movement, I can't really nail down a deadly accurate measurement with the naked eye. Especially since we're talking .2mm, so I backed the steps down from 400 to 399.9 and that was the ticket. I am going to print a test cube and measure Z to see if I can't bring it down once more because I think it could still be a little better.
              Thanks so much for the response. You turned me into a direction I didn't even consider!

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              • Scottbg1undefined
                Scottbg1
                last edited by

                Lowering the value of the Z travel helped a lot but I still wasn't satisfied with how my prints were turning out.
                I was getting blobs, especially in the corners.
                Even though I tried changing settings in my slicer (Simplify3D), sometimes to the extreme just to see the result, I could never get a nice clean print.

                So I went for broke and started raising the heater temp.
                I found that 240C apparently the sweet spot.
                Each layer is nice and shiny now, instead of the dull, dry look I was getting with the recommended temps.
                And the blobs in the corners disappeared. One audible piece of evidence was my extruder stepper would pop on long lines. I am printing at 80mm/s. It has stopped doing that.
                I attributed the blobs in the corners to maybe pressure build up from the stepper trying to push the filament through the nozzle with it not hot enough, and it oozing out even though it was retracting.

                So with all that, I am assuming that the manufacturers temp recommendations are way off, or my temp reading is inaccurate.

                For reference the recommended max temp is 225C. eSun PLA+ filament.

                Also it is of note that I tried printing PETG which I have always had good luck with and the filament bent and started coming out the side of the feeder right at the pulley. I gave up and stuck the PLA+ back in and started experimenting with the temps.

                Any ideas? What say you?

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                • number40fanundefined
                  number40fan
                  last edited by

                  https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=1138#p11089

                  Use 4388 for B.

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                  • Scottbg1undefined
                    Scottbg1
                    last edited by

                    @number40fan:

                    https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=1138#p11089

                    Use 4388 for B.

                    If I read this thread correctly, 4388 is used when using older firmware.
                    1.17 or higher you would use 4725.
                    The wiki has been updated to this as well.

                    Did I misunderstand?

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                    • number40fanundefined
                      number40fan
                      last edited by

                      Sorry, I didn't go through the Wiki as much as I should have. Was just having under temp issues and found the thread I linked to. Switched those numbers around, original was something in the high 3000's, and my problem was fixed.

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                      • Whitewolfundefined
                        Whitewolf
                        last edited by

                        Fixing the blobs isnt the heat… just because it works doesnt mean its the right thing to do.

                        What is your pressure advance settings, does exactly 100mm of filament come out when you extrude with hotend detached?

                        You really need to get a caliper, they can be found at harbor freight for cheap.

                        Exploring the universe wherever the tech blows

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