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    Connect to printer via COM port. How to check FW etc?

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    • Blacksheep99undefined
      Blacksheep99
      last edited by

      Hello, I have a Polaroid Modelsmart 250S printer and I plan to upgrade it to a Duet 2 Wifi. However prior to that it would be good if I could interrogate the current control board for information.

      I have tried YAT and the COM port which seems to associate with the printer. M115 doesn't return anything. This is an area of very limited knowledge for me. Is there anything I can do to try and access the board or is it likely a closed system and I will just have to accept that?

      Thanks.

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • theruttmeisterundefined
        theruttmeister
        last edited by

        You are going to be replacing the electronics... there's almost nothing that the firmware could tell you that you can't either measure physically or figure out via testing.

        Especially as that printer may well not even use G-code in a conventional format.

        That COM port might well be a diagnostic port and of no use at all. For comparison, when tearing down a Makerbot Mini, it was interesting to find that the USB port on the back gave access to the Linux/BusyBox OS, not in any way that let you send g-code though (not helped by Makerbots having switched to using JSON for commands).

        Figuring out what is that port is and what you can do with it will probably take longer than just jumping right into configuring RRF with whatever you can measure in the machine.

        Isolate, substitute, verify.

        Blacksheep99undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • dc42undefined
          dc42 administrators
          last edited by

          Have you tried sending M503 to the old electronics? On Marlin-based printers, this returns useful information.

          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

          Blacksheep99undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • A Former User?
            A Former User
            last edited by

            Was this the same controller board with a hole in the chip, if so I wouldn't expect much response.

            If its a different one, maybe try looking at Octoprint's firmware autodetection function?

            But as theruttmeister said, might be easier to work it out if its proprietary

            Blacksheep99undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Blacksheep99undefined
              Blacksheep99 @theruttmeister
              last edited by

              @theruttmeister said in Connect to printer via COM port. How to check FW etc?:

              You are going to be replacing the electronics... there's almost nothing that the firmware could tell you that you can't either measure physically or figure out via testing.

              Especially as that printer may well not even use G-code in a conventional format.

              That COM port might well be a diagnostic port and of no use at all. For comparison, when tearing down a Makerbot Mini, it was interesting to find that the USB port on the back gave access to the Linux/BusyBox OS, not in any way that let you send g-code though (not helped by Makerbots having switched to using JSON for commands).

              Figuring out what is that port is and what you can do with it will probably take longer than just jumping right into configuring RRF with whatever you can measure in the machine.

              Thanks for the info. It reads gcode when printing as I was able to ditch the original slicer (which used Cura in the background) for Cura. I used the Marlin setting and added some start code found in the files generated by the Polaroid slicer. The files were name .ebp but they were plain text editable gcode.

              Example:

              ebp@200
              pla@1
              null@0
              version@1_2_36@null@null
              T0
              M104 TO S215
              G21
              G90
              M107
              T0
              G28
              G29
              M109 TO S215
              M107
              T0
              G92 E0
              G92 E0
              G1 F2100 E-1.75
              ;LAYER_COUNT:575
              ;LAYER:0
              M107
              G0 F2400 X120.91 Y44.688 Z0.2
              ;TYPE:SKIRT
              G1 F2100 E0
              G1 F1200 X121.153 Y44.241 E0.01179
              G1 X121.578 Y43.716 E0.02745
              G1 X121.692 Y43.602 E0.03119
              G1 X122.079 Y43.272 E0.04298
              G1 X122.513 Y43.006 E0.05478
              G1 X122.983 Y42.811 E0.06657
              G1 X123.477 Y42.693 E0.07835
              

              I have a good basis for the upgrade as the machine I've just got working with a Maestro is based on the same physical hardware.

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Blacksheep99undefined
                Blacksheep99 @dc42
                last edited by

                @dc42 said in Connect to printer via COM port. How to check FW etc?:

                Have you tried sending M503 to the old electronics? On Marlin-based printers, this returns useful information.

                No, not tried that. I'll give it a go. It's not the end of the world if nothing comes back but I'm interested to know if I can communicate with the printer.

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Blacksheep99undefined
                  Blacksheep99 @A Former User
                  last edited by

                  @bearer said in Connect to printer via COM port. How to check FW etc?:

                  Was this the same controller board with a hole in the chip, if so I wouldn't expect much response.

                  If its a different one, maybe try looking at Octoprint's firmware autodetection function?

                  But as theruttmeister said, might be easier to work it out if its proprietary

                  Hi, no it's a different printer. I got the Polaroid first and was able to find a way to use Cura as my slicer which meant I had a lot more control even if the FW was closed off. It became clear to me that Polaroid took the ST3Di printers and tweaked them a little but in essence they're the same machines. The one I've just repaired was an ST3Di 280 from ebay. As the mechanics are near identical then I have a good basis with my existing config so I feel relatively confident this will be an easier experience in upgrading.

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                  • A Former User?
                    A Former User
                    last edited by

                    if its otherwise functional you could look into com2com / socat to setup some virtual serial ports to tap into the communication between whatever software it comes with.

                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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