Software endstops?
-
Why do you set the minimum XY at 5? If your home switch is beyond the printable area of the bed, you should make the minima negative, so the edge of the bed is at 0,0.
RRF will reduce power to the motors after a while so the position is not lost, instead of turning them off like Marlin does. Check the I parameter of M906. If you find that the motors cannot hold when they are "idle", you can increase the idle current as required.
because I'm forever backward, lol I'll fix that now, thanks again
-
since I'm batting a 1000 today, I set my height with a 0.1 automotive feeler gauge. do I want to put the offset in M208 as a negative? -0.1 so the firmware knows where I am? or leave it as 0, because I know that is the height that my PETG likes (set first layer to 100% in teh slicer)
-
GRRRR, it will still let me move toward the endstop after homing, does it have to be home all?
M667 S1 ; Select CoreXY mode
M208 X-10 Y-10 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X325 Y325 Z395 S0 ; Set axis maximaheight is 395 for the head position in teh machine read out, top right
-
G28 for all it won't let you, however if you run G28 Z0 it will let you, go figure
-
Where have you fitted the endstop - Z min or Z max? i.e when the bed is close to the nozzle or furthest away? Also, it sounds like you need to post your homeZ and homeall files.
-
M208 defines the XYZ positions that are set when the respective min or max endstops are hit. So with your setup, if you home to X Min, after homing X will be -10. You will always be able to move back to the homing position, even if it is negative. You just won't be able to move further.
When using a Z endstop, Z offset is usually specified with G92 after homing is completed (which sets the axis position without moving). If you use a probe, then the Z offset should be defined as the Z parameter of G31. In all cases the minima of Z is 0.
In my mind Z=0 is when the hot nozzle is physically touching the bed, i.e. you should never travel with Z=0. Not everyone agrees though.
-
Endstop is at Z-MAX since its a CoreXY
; homeall.g
; called to home the Z axis
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Oct 29 2017 21:37:06 GMT-0400 (Eastern Standard Time)
G91 ; relative mode
G1 Z4 F200 ; raise head 4mm to ensure it is above the switch trigger height
G90 ; back to absolute mode
G1 X0 Y0 F2000 S1 ; put the head wherever you want it to be when you home Z (omit this line if it doesn't matter)
G91 ; relative mode
G1 Z-395 S1 F100 ; move Z down until the switch triggers
G90 ; back to absolute mode
G92 Z0.1 ; tell the firmware that we are at Z=0.1mmFulg: I zeroed out the M208. No probe yet I want to try the Precision Piezo https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/ but they have been out of stock for about 2 weeks now
-
You need to move towards the ends stop for it to trigger. As you have chosen to fit the end stop to Z max (furthest position away from the nozzle) then you need to move Z in a positive direction, not negative. TBH, if you can manage it, you would be wise to re-locate the Z end stop to the more conventional position which is closest to the nozzle (Z min). The reason being that most things you print will be a lot less than the maximum height of your Z travel in height and as things are at the moment, you'll have to move the bed all the way down, then all the way back up again every time you want home.
-
Z-MAX is closest to the nozzle
-
Z Max should be furthest away from the nozzle. If you are homing Z at the nozzle then you are homing to Z min. No wonder you are having a hard time.
Endstop is at Z-MAX since its a CoreXY
Why do you say this? There is no relation between the endstop locations and the printer kinematics. You can home a CoreXY on either end of each axis if you want to (X max, Y max, Z min, or whatever combination is most convenient for you).
The only restriction with the axes is that the system you define should fit a right-hand coordinate system. As the documentation states, "looking down on the printer the +Y direction should be 90 degrees anticlockwise from the +X direction. If instead it is 90 degrees clockwise, you have a left-hand axis system, which will give you mirror-image prints."
-
…..........................
https://youtu.be/ak-JUL5CwT0?t=40sIs that your Corexy in the video?
-
…..........................
https://youtu.be/ak-JUL5CwT0?t=40sIs that your Corexy in the video?
Is it just me or do the belts paths look a, Slack and also b not all at 90 degrees to each other
-
Is it just me or do the belts paths look a, Slack and also b not all at 90 degrees to each other
No it's not you. If you watch it right through, the guy in the video talks about the belts being slack because he made no provision to tension them but he makes no mention of the fact that that are nowhere near parallel to the axes. Not only that but at about 3:30 he pushes the carriage back in the Y direction and the gantry pushes the right hand belt out sideways. He's never going to get that Z axis working properly either. I didn't want to mention it in case it was the OP's own printer but now that you've bought it up, it looks like a pretty good example of how not to build a CoreXY.
-
Yeah I saw the belt tension bit after I had posted the above and got fed up watching it
