Water-cooled Diamond hotend

  • Now that is interesting Wonder when Ian will try one??

  • Good idea, seems that as cooling is so important with these hotends and getting a powerful enough fan in there not always easy, water cooling is the way forward.

  • Yes, I had all Ian experiments in mind!

  • Just ordered myself one of those https://youprintin3d.de/hotendszubehoer/e3d/wasserkuehlung/792/water-cooled-heatsink.html?number=Water-cooled-heatsink. One could probably daisy chain 5 of those to a Diamond to solve the cooling problems once and for all.

  • Mike et al; when you assemble this thing get yourself some silicone (waterproof) grease and do all the o-rings and pipe connectors with it on assembly.

    • I've no experience of watercooling on PCs or printers, but lots of experience running remote filter systems on aquariums (and a wooden floor); O-rings love to 'dry out' (thin down, distort and develop cracks) then spring sudden leaks over time, especially if slightly disturbed after sitting in one position for ages. Some silicone grease used on all mating surfaces really helps stop this, and makes everything easier to (dis)assemble.

  • Thanks a lot, EasyTarget! It's a bit of a new one for me and I'm a bit anxious to see how well will the tubing cope with repeated bending-unbending cycles. Does anyone know if I should stick with silicon tubes or get nylon ones?

  • Given that the printhead needs to move, I think you should go for silicone tubing if you can; it is so much more flexible than the PVC/Nylon stuff. I use silicone tube for airlines in my aquariums specifically because I move the airstones about and unlike the ubiquitous cheap PVC tubing it does not form kinks or harden up with time.

  • 120 seems like a decent deal if it works. If I still had my delta up and running I’d give it ago. The only bad thing about diamonds is you got have a Bowden tube…

  • Hi guys. I'm still at the other side of the world to my printer and PC. However, I did see those pics about a month ago and wondered… That's all there is though - just pics. Given the hassle and modifications that I had to make to get the air cooled version to work, I'd need more than just pics before I part with my hard earned. Peter Bogesly isn't the most communicative guy and I've never had any feedback from him about all the work I've done on his hot ends. Maybe he doesn't like the fact that I tell it how it is? I'd be happy to test and evaluate the water cooled version if he supplied me one but I can't see that happening somehow.

  • I'm working on a water-cooled hotend (a simple head, not like Diamond), and I found that having a part 3D printed in metal is not that expensive. Sculpteo (a french company), has a service using binder jetting material, which is really cheap compared to other technos.

  • Offtopic but..

    ..I found that having a part 3D printed in metal is not that expensive

    I have high hopes that affordable and practical home metal printing is arriving over the next few years:
    The 3dNerd video is very interesting [not the Nerd.. just the thing he describes ;-)] they are printing with high-carbon steel, wow.
    Cast parts are rough but strong.. Add a CNC mill (just an adapted 3d printer, my pressed-steel framed Cartesian is probably strong enough already for light work with a suitable tool), a pillar drill and maybe a microlathe and a whole world of possibilities opens up.

  • I adapted a dyze design water block to an e3d heatsink by just grinding the fins off one side and wiring them together with plenty of thermal compound between. Chamber 45 deg C hotend heatsink 28 deg C. Happy days.

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