Problems with LED and Cooling Fan on Smart effector
2 Days ago i finally changes heating curve to PID instead of Bang-Bang. did a heater calibration. all went ok.
After that i started a 8 hr print and left it for 1 hour..came back and the print failed..yesterday i wanted to start a new try and the nozzle was clogged. after i took all apart i saw that the filament was melted with my ptfe bowden. Cleaned the hotend and see that the e3d cooling fan dont work. so the heat crrep into the cooler. put external 12V on the fan and it running..so its not a broken fan. Since the calibration the LED flicker while printing.
Tried M106 P0 S255 and M106 P1 S255. The part cooler start to run at low rpm after i gave it a little push. Hot end cooler dont start at all.
How can i verify whats the real problem?
Do those fans run normally if you plug them into one of the always-on fan connectors?
Is the V_FAN voltage selector jumper in the VIN position?
ok..tried a 2nd fan..same..plugged them in a alway_on port..running.. Voltage selector is ok
Maybe its my own fault..
Had the print fan in Fan_0 and the hotend fan in Fan_2.. plugged the hotend fan now in E1..its working now..at least the hotend fan..strange..looks like i plugged them wron into the board but never had probs before..
starting a print now and will look for the Fan behaviour
LED still flickering..maybe the hotend fan in a always on?
LED still flickering..maybe the hotend fan in a always on?
Do you mean the white corner LEDs? if so, are they flickering regularly or intermittently? If the flickering is intermittent, then most likely there is a bad crimp connection in the cable. See whether waggling the cable ends induces them to flicker.
flickering is regular.. 2 days ago they flickering when both heaters( bed and hotend) heats up..so a little drop in voltage ( use a 12V 47A 475W PSU) but now it flickers regualar..about 50Hz
If the flicker is regular, that sounds like you are running the fan at less than 100% PWM and you have reduced the PWM frequency. What M106 commands do you use in config.g?
started a print and the print fan doenst start…guess i messed up everything
so..Printfan is on FAN_0
Hotend fan is on FAN_1 now but that config i had the Hotend Fan on FAN_2
M106 P0 S0.3 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H T45 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 A92.9 C679.6 D2.5 S1.00 V11.9 B0
M307 H1 A912.7 C306.9 D5.9 S1.00 V12.3 B0
M307 H2 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H3 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H4 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H5 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H6 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H7 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
btw..i love the duet board and how i can look into the configs while it prints...blame on marlin
Your fan 1 configuration looks OK to me. The fan should turn on at full power when the hot end temperature exceeds 45C.
Make sure you don't have any F parameters (print cooling fan mapping) in your M563 tool definition commands in config.g. You don't need to specify a fan number there because you are using fan 0 as the print cooling fan.
You can send M106 P1 at any time and it will report the current parameters for fan 1.
Fan1 frequency: 500Hz, speed: 100%, min: 10%, blip: 0.10, inverted: no, temperature: 45.0:45.0C, heaters: 0
Fan0 frequency: 500Hz, speed: 100%, min: 10%, blip: 0.10, inverted: no
so….hotend fan Fan_1 runs a 500Hz if temp >45° right?
Print Fan is in FAN_0 but doesn´t run..but should run at layer 2..
Both fans runs now on 100% ( print fan is at always on in the moment) but Corner LED still flickering..should i plug the hotend fan on always on( if im right LED and hotend fan are on same Vin, right?)
I can see a mistake:
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H T45
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45
That will make it monitor heater 1 (the hot end temperature) instead of heater 0 (the bed temperature).
Please confirm that it is the 3 corner LEDs that are flickering. The single yellow LED indicates that hot end is on, and it's normal for that to flicker as the PWM varies.
Will change it in config when print is finished..
And yes..i can confirm that the 3 Corner LED are flickering
Put back the Print fan on FAN_0 dont even start
Tried a M106 P0 S255 didnt start
and its activated in the s3d gcode starts at layer 2
I'm wondering whether you have a power supply problem, either in general power to the Duet or in the fan power supply circuit in particular. Is the bed heater powered from the same power supply? If so then the flickering could be the bed heater PWM affecting the supply voltage. Does the flickering stop if you turn the bed heater off?
Please check that the screws in the VIN terminal block are still tight.
ok…found something...plugged the Hotend Fan on always on and the flickering was gone...for a moment..measured the amps the board want with both heaters on (8.7A) and while i had the 12V Gnd in my hand the flickering starts again..took a closer look and the Gnd on the screw terminal was slightly darker..srews were still tight and i uses 1,5mm² cables ( like uses in house installations. Whats the current rating of the screw terminals? shortend the cables
But still have the Prob with the print fan.. didnt start with a M106 P0 S255
Same if i plug the fan into Fan_2 Port.. M106 P2 S255 dont work..fan only works if i use a always_on port
maybe i should think about a 24V rebuild or at least a mosfet for the bed heater…would remove alot of current from the Vin terminals
The VIN terminals are rated to 32A AFAIR. But to safely pass high currents through terminal blocks, you need to crimp ferrules (supplied with the Duet) on to the cables.
Blackening of the terminal blocks is a sure sign of a bad connection. I think you will find that the screw is loose, unless it has seized in place due to overheating.
ferrules would make the contact resistance higher on the NYM-J, 3 x 1.5 mm² that i used. its one pure copper cable a tin plated ferrule would make it worse…cable is rated for 16A at 220V ..anyway..hard to tell how tight the screw was before it..will check the terminal again next week..maybe i have to solder a new screw terminal, that fit.
Any idea why i cant start that print fan on FAN_1 or Fan_2?
Your config.g file has thermostatic mode enabled on fan 1 and fan 2. You need to cancel thermostatic mode before you can control the fan directly.
thats not the problem…
Fan_1 is the Hotend Fan..termostatic mode and works...fan starts at 45° hotend temp
I tried the print fan on Fan_0 and Fan_2 so both modes..and on both fan ports it dont react on a M106 Px S255 and the fan is ok because it works on a "always_on port"
Any chance to detect whats going wrong? for me its the the board problem…
my Fan Section in the moment.
M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
If i put the part fan on P1 it starts at 45° but thats not what i want
changes fans on port over and over..FAN_0 and FAN_2 are DEAD..only Fan_1 work as intendend and i can control it via the M106
Question: how does the board or the slicer know which fan port is used for Hotend and wich is for the part fan?