doesnt matter if you only use one I have a flying extruder setup here and took a right handed..
all depends on the setup..or on a multimaterial printer if you want a mirrored extruder setup.

The extruders are sold without motor, because you have to decide what you need.
More torque or is a pancake motor sufficient?

I got my Anycubic Delta for Christmas last year. Honestly, there's nothing left of the Anycubic except for a few screws.
Meanwhile the frame is 1m high and has a print bed of 300mm.
Flying Extruder with Bondtech, DuetWifi Board, Smart effector, DIY Magnetic Rods.

I love working on it.

For an Answer in the german reprap forum i made a little testprint.
60x60x5mm 20 bottom and top layer so no infill. my printer startet as a cheap anycubic Kossel Pulley..and so far the DuetWifi with the Smart effector was the best investment.

in the end i had 300mm/s printspeed and 5000mm/s² acceleration.

Youtube

at 5:30 the first Bowdenclip came loose what a great board.

@o_lampe
https://www.prusaprinters.org/
sure..its called prusaprinters but its for all...and nice side...if you upload your designs there you can earn Prusameters ( nice benefit who usually do open source stuff) If you want earn money with your own designs there are other sites ( mostly depending on what you design

@dc42 i wondered about that strange behavior too..got a 300mm diameter Delta...and if i wanted to fill in 150mm printable radius it wont accept it...reason is ( and thats just after i saw you post: in the tool the delta radius cant be smaller than the printable radius...so..if i want my 150mm printable radius i have first fill in at least 150mm delta radius

Dont use the 7 factors Calibration. It will change, as you can see, the Rod lenght. it changes from Diagonal 224.846 to Diagonal 219.065 and with each change there the dimensions of your whole print will change.
Solution: use the 6 factor Calibration because it will leave the Rod lenght untouched.
Calibratting a Delta

sometimes the first run on a delta is some try and error...your M665 in your config.overide shows that it never finished calibrating successful.
On my Delta most time was that the H Parameter is not nearly right..
For Example..u said H is 220mm but in real H is 240mm( as you said it stopped 20mm above bed. so the effector moves down and expect a probe triggering around the 220mm.. if it hnot happens, then it stop the probing. So make sure that your probe is working properly as described before...then change the H Parameter in your M665 and do it again..after the first successful G28 and savin it via M500 ou shouldnt have that problem again

For sure, Huntleys Mag arms are expensive...but why dont build some yourself? some 6-8mm carbon rod..I used steel balls at the rods and magnets at the carrier and smart effector..constructing some 45° magnet holders is don e in some minutes. Costs me about 15-20€ and some time. ( I used nylon coated 12mm countersunk magnets)

You misunderstood something. Its not a smart extruder...its a smart effector.
ans Thers no V6 extruder.. theres a E3D Titan Extruder and a E3D V6 Hotend.
If its the Hotend, thats all you need..on the smart effector is a e3d compatible heatsink, so you will need the heatblock, heatbreak, nozzle and thermistor from your old setup.
And take a look at a Titan clone..the anycubic Extruder is crap.
For the smart effector you will need a crimp tool
Next..if you have a heated bed i would recommend a MOSFET ( 12-24V) or a SSR ( 230V heated bed) even if the duet is rated for 11 Amps i saw already several burned connectors ( here in forum and on my own board)

What else you need? carbon rods in the needed lenght..maybe haydn or just DIY. and the steel balls.

connecting it should not be a problem. Reeds are simple switches...but..will they have always a correct trigger point?
saw already so many threads in printer forums about optical..mechanical..hall endstops and in the end most user get back to the good old switches because they are not affected by the earth magnetic field..how bright the sun shines..they simply works..

Just received the new effector. its a Rev 3 Effector..
is it normal that the coldend dont sits flush to the pcb?

the palstic nut is just wurned on with hand...would need force to make the coldend flush with pcb...or should i sand the hole in the pcb larger?

@jrcl what filament did you used? and hows your exrrusion modifier? does it stick to the bed? if yes, it can be too high EM

@fcwilt
G30 Doku: If a "normal" Z parameter is given instead of -9999 or lower, then the bed is not probed, but instead that value is used as if the Z probe had triggered at that height.

so...a z-99999 is the same as a Z-10000

anyway..its not the point and i didnt wanted to discuss the macro..its not mine...but it works..even if i had the skill to do it, i would change some parts ( for example just use K0 and K1 instead of re-define the probe for each probing)

I just wanted to point out that G30 uses the 2 system MAcros and its not documentated...just a row rows of text would be enough that had explained that g30 always calls M401 and M402 no matter what probe type you have defined.
As i never had a BL Touch in any of my Duet Printer i wasnt aware of.

@fcwilt
it part of this script AutoZ

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Auto-Z-calibration-for-RRF-3.3-or-later-and-Klicky-Probe
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Auto-Z-calibration-for-RRF-3.3-or-later-and-Klicky-Probe/autoz/autoz.g

Chriss Copy and paste error fixed
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 ; ---------- ---------- Auto Z ---------- ----------
 
 ; to use autoz, please place the following near the end of your slicers start gcode
 ; M98 P"/macros/autoz/autoz.g" <<< Place in slicer


; ---------- prepare ----------


M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/defaults.g" ; load some deefaults which will be overwriten by the "edit_me.g"
M98 P"/macros/autoz/edit_me.g" ; load your settings
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/autoz_globals.g" ; load autoz framework
G29 S2 ; disable mesh
M290 R0 S0 ; RESET BABY STEPPING


; ---------- probe the nozzle ----------


M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/autozhop_up.g" ; large z hop incase the nozzle is low and you have a high pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/use_pin_autoz.g" ; use the z pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/pin_xy.g" ; go to the z pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/drive_autoz.g" ; set z drive safe physics

G30 ; zero the z axis to the nozzle

M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/restore_zdrive.g" ; restore the z drive to the state before autoz
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/smallzhopup.g" ; move up 2mm
M400


; ---------- load the clicky ----------


M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/use_clicky_autoz.g" ; use the clicky probe 
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/autozhop_up.g"
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/clicky_status.g"
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/loadclicky.g" ; pick up and verify clicky
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/clicky_status.g"

M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/confirmclicky.g"

M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/pin_xy_clicky.g" ; move the clicky probe switch body over the z pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/use_pin_autoz.g" ; use the z pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/drive_autoz.g" ; set z drive safe physics
M400


; ---------- probe clicky switch body ----------


M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/probeclicky.g" ; probe the clicky body with the z pin
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/calculate.g" ; simple z offset calculation and average
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/comptomesh.g"
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/use_clicky_autoz.g" ; use the clicky probe
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/autozhop_up.g" ; hop to clear the switch
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/bedcenter.g" ; go to the center of the bed 
M400

G30 ; set Z0 according to the clicky


; ---------- get final result ----------


M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/finaloffset.g"


; ---------- finish up ----------


M291 T5 R"AutoZ complete" P"Z offset was detected"
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/restore_zdrive.g" ; restore the z drive to the state before autoz
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/autozhop_up.g" ; small z hop
M400
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/unloadclicky.g" ; unload the clicky probe
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/bedcenter.g" ; go to the center of the bed 
M98 P"/macros/autoz/scripts/alldone.g" ; do a happy dance


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I put a Klicky Z-probe into my Voron. Firstly i made 2 macros deployprobe.g and retractprobe.g to get the Probe from the dock and use M401 and M402. Worked flawless.Then i wanted to implement an autoz script and the problems started. it do some global variable scripts and then it moves over the z-switch pin behind the Bed. then it calls a G30 Z-99999 . As far i understood the G30 doku it should lower the printhead till it hits the switch ( checked via m558 that its the right pin.) But it doesnt moves down...instead it moves to the bedcenter and moves there and would have crash without a emergency stop. Asked for help ind the Voron RRF channel but no help from there...took me 2 days till i was sure that the G30 Doku missing an important part...G30 always call an M401 even if you have the Probe defined as P5 or P8. The autocall should only works with P9 ( BL Touch). My Solution was rename the retract and deploy macro and insert in all other Macros where it needed not the M401 and M402 but the M98 P"xxxxx" to do the same job..then G30 work as intended and moves down whereever on the bed i call it. maybe that little info could implemented into the Doku as some other guy had the same Prob.

@phaedrux downloaded it yesterday and will try it today...looks really good

@moonie223 as i had similar Problems pls check your Hotend...if its not abolutely tight screwed together, your senivity is crap...better check it twice...on my ht heatbreak become just a tad loose in the heatsink and from one day to another the smart effector seemed to be brocken..took a while to get it..

@dc42 hopefully with some kind of how to use it...just looked at the plugin but honestly...dont know how to use it

Would love it too...caculation of Extrusion Volume via Excel sheet seem so 2010 like

dont know if its solve your problem but you have the 120 Ohm terminating Resisitor twice. Once you have the extra Resistor on the CAN Plug ( only used with 1.1 Boards without distribution boards) and then you closed the Solder brigde on the Board( 1.2 boards and later. Remove the Cable resistorand leave the cables open. At least your CAN should connect then.

@tecno
That sound is terrible...and beside lowering the sensivity of the smart effector i would say...get some new Linear bearings...just from that sound ever time it changes direction it could be vibrating bearings that affect the smart effector