Need some help tuning and tweaking my custom delta printer
-
So I've finally found some spare time to setup my custom built delta.
Here is a very quick rundown of my set up and what I’ve done so far.
1)The delta is built rather solidly (see picture) and care was take to comply with the mechanical part of this guide (https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer))
- The extruder was calibrated using these guides:
- https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
- https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y
- The height, endstop adjustment and height was calibrated using my nozzle contact probe and this guide:
The results from the above steps allow me to print a first layer which sticks and almost fills my entire build radius (~75mm). My bed is machined flat and heated.
After having completed these steps I tried to dial in my settings in Cura so I could print my part cooling fan (https://www.thingiverse.com/make:265757
Now that I have a part cooling fan and a basic calibration, I want to get a propper set up. So I’ve been playing around in Cura to find optimal settings for my printer. But I must say after an entire day of tinkering I’m feeling a bit out of luck.
Here is a picture of my fifth and sixth benchy (all benchys before that failed because of the missing part cooling fan and material warping upwards forcing the effector out of the magnetic joints). I’m not sure why the sixth benchy removed itself from the bed as this was the first print today which did that.
Along with the pictures I will also attach a screenshot of the Cura settings and my config.gI would greatly appreciate some help.
I think I need to work on my retraction settings but I’m not sure.Fifth benchy
Sixth benchy
[[language]] ---------------------------------------- ; Communication and general ---------------------------------------- M111 S0 ; Debug off M550 PProDelta ; Machine name and Netbios name (can be anything you like) M55 P0 ; Set input&output to RepRap emulation ---------------------------------------- ;Wifi Networking M552 S1 ; To change Settings edit SetNetwork Macro and run it ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ; Axis and motor configuration ---------------------------------------- G21 ; Work in millimetres G90 ; Send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M555 P0 ; Set output to look like RepRap M569 P0 S0 ;(X) S=0 rueckwaerts, S=1 forwaerts M569 P1 S1 ;(Y) S=0 rueckwaerts, S=1 forwaerts M569 P2 S1 ;(Z) S=0 rueckwaerts, S=1 forwaerts M569 P3 S0 ;(E0) S=0 rueckwaerts, S=1 forwaerts M569 P4 S1 ;(E1) S=0 rueckwaerts, S=1 forwaerts M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S0 ; Endanschlag Konfiguration, (X,Y,Z)=2 Endanschlag oben S=0, Stop auf active low Stp auf GND M665 R97.65 L221 B90 H347.760 ; set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height M666 X0.290 Y-0.201 Z0.030 ; Positive endstop adjustments move the head closer to the bed M350 X256 Y256 Z256 E32 ; Set "256"x microstepping M92 X2560 Y2560 Z2560 ; Set axis steps/mm (Quelle http://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/) M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and increase idle current to 60% M201 X2000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Accelerations (mm/min^2) M203 X10000 Y10000 Z10000 E6000 ; Maximum speeds (mm/min) M566 X100 Y100 Z100 E100 ; Maximum instant speed changes mm/minute M564 S1 ; Limit movement within axis boundaries ---------------------------------------- ; Thermistors ---------------------------------------- M305 P0 T5000 B3470 R4700 H0 L0 ;Heizbett M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 H0 L0 ;Hotend M570 H1 P5 T10 ; Wenn das Hotend nach 120s für P=5s eine Temp. differenz > 15grad C angibt wird ein Fehler gemeldet M143 H0 S100 ; Max Temp. H0=Heitzbett 100 grad M143 H1 S245 ; Max Temp. H1=Heater Anschluss E0 245 grad ---------------------------------------- ; Heater model parameters ---------------------------------------- ; Heater 0 = Bed ; Heater 1 = Hotend M307 H0 A701.1 C1651.5 D18.7 S1.00 V23.6 B0 M307 H1 A562.8 C261.0 D8.1 S1.00 V23.6 B0 ;M570 H0 P60 T10 ; Temp. of H0 deviates for 30s from setpoint throw error ;M570 H1 P30 T10 ; Temp. of H0 deviates for 30s from setpoint throw error ---------------------------------------- ; Fan ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ; Tool definitions ---------------------------------------- M563 P0 D0 H1 F0 ;tool 0 (P0), uses Extruder 0 (D0) with Heater 1 (H1) and Fan 0 as default fan (F0) G10 P0 S0 R0 M92 E204 ; Set extruder steps per mm ---------------------------------------- ; Z probe and compensation definitions ---------------------------------------- M558 P4 F100 I1 T6000 H5 ; Z Probe as NO switch, Probing speed 100 mm/min, Travel speed 6000 mm/min, Dive hight 5 mm T0 ; select first hot end -
I think the main problem is that you are printing too hot, probably by at least 10C. What material are you printing, and at what temperature? Are your M305 P1 parameters in config.g correct for the thermistor (or other temperature sensor) in your hot end?
-
Thanks for answer.
I'm printing with PLA from DAS FILAMENT. The PLA recommends a printing temp. of 215 °C ± 15 °C. The material is roughly 1,5 years old and has probably absorbed some moisture (ambient humidity 20-75%).
I’ve used the M305 to configure my hotend and I’m positive that the settings are correct as I’m using a geniuine E3D Lite 6.
But based on you suggestion I’ve reduced the temp to 190 °C and 195 °C from the previous 210 °C and have been printing some test print. It looks like this will bring me a lot closer.
I’ll now print a new benchy, which will take some time and report back with some further results. -
Did you check your hot end for clogs or if the nozzle is damaged? It looks like your extruder is not working properly. The bowden setup can be finicky if there is not enough tension or if the filament is slipping. Take a look at your hobbed gear and see if there are plastic embedded into the grooves. While it is printing, you should note if the extruder is making any noise such as gears slipping or grinding. Grinding is not too hard to determine. If you pull out the filament that has gone through the bowden, look for chunks missing or uneven notches. You should also calibrate your extruder and adjust the steps to match the extrusion rate. It looks like you are over-extruding and having jams/clogs in some spots.
There may be other mechanical issues with the printer. One thing to check is your endstops and see if the position is repeatable. Another thing to check if your effector tilt. You have a lot of weight on your effector causing issues if you are printing too fast. I would not print benchy for testing. I usually print a small 20x20x4 test block and verify the mechanics. I don't like printing the 20x20x20 test cubes since they take too long. You should be able to see most of the problems by the 4mm level and make adjustments. I would only print the 20x20x20 cubes or benchy when I am sure most of the issues are resolved.
-
Did you check your hot end for clogs or if the nozzle is damaged? It looks like your extruder is not working properly. The bowden setup can be finicky if there is not enough tension or if the filament is slipping. Take a look at your hobbed gear and see if there are plastic embedded into the grooves. While it is printing, you should note if the extruder is making any noise such as gears slipping or grinding. Grinding is not too hard to determine. If you pull out the filament that has gone through the bowden, look for chunks missing or uneven notches. You should also calibrate your extruder and adjust the steps to match the extrusion rate. It looks like you are over-extruding and having jams/clogs in some spots.
There may be other mechanical issues with the printer. One thing to check is your endstops and see if the position is repeatable. Another thing to check if your effector tilt. You have a lot of weight on your effector causing issues if you are printing too fast. I would not print benchy for testing. I usually print a small 20x20x4 test block and verify the mechanics. I don't like printing the 20x20x20 test cubes since they take too long. You should be able to see most of the problems by the 4mm level and make adjustments. I would only print the 20x20x20 cubes or benchy when I am sure most of the issues are resolved.
The nozzle seems fine and I'm not hearing and sounds related to the filament slipping (also no abrasive residue near the extruder gear). After seeing this Benchy would you still say that I might be over-extruding or having jams/clogs?
What do you look for when printing the 20x20x4 test cube?
How does your cube look like (singe wall, two walls with infill, how many base layers, top open or closed?)I really like the improvements over my last Benchy but I’m still far from satisfied.
Here are some things I would like to improve:- The blobs in the side walls
- The holes in the side walls and other parts of the print
- Some of the outline walls stick out more than others (side & chimney)
- The infill pattern is visible from the outside (see cross pattern in walls)
Based on the settings I used (see picture) and the results (see pictures) what would you guys suggest I adjust next? Retraction, temperature, extruder calibration or general calibration?
What are you favorite test objects?
I’ve been doing some test with a two tower model to check the retraction.
-https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2766430Thanks for the help.
Greetings[h]Benchy 7[/h]
-
So I've been testing to find the correct printing temperature for my filament.
I printed four models (see pictures below) with the temperature ranging from 190°C to 205°C (I did not test 210°C because many unsatisfying previous prints were printed at that temperature).Personally I found that the 200°C and 205°C print looked the best (but not by far). I had hoped that the differences would be more obvious.
This leads me to believe that another setting is more prevalent at the moment and thus I’m fixing my temperature at 200°C and will play around with other settings.
My will next try adjusting the retraction from 1mm to 5mm.I’m very interested in some input here, as I could greatly benefit from someone with more experience.
Thanks for the help.
DanielPyramids 1-4
Link to the model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21303/#made
All settings besides the temperature were held constant.
