Installing a Duet WiFi in an Anycubic Kossel Linear +
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There have been a lot of posts on the Duet3D forums about converting “Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus” printers by installing a Duet controller. The price of an AKL+, falling near $200 US probably has a lot to do with this. I have an AKL not Plus, and it has been an excellent little printer. I also happen to have a Duet WiFi available at the moment. Therefore, I decided to get an AKL+, and convert it to Duet control.
I will chronicle that journey here, with supporting detail on my blog, and at the end, place a quick "how to" summary on the Duet Wiki.
Step 1 of that conversion: Be sure it works stock out of the box. Ordered on June 24 2018 via the Anycubic store on AliExpress, delivered on Jun 28th. $221, shipped. Four days to Texas. Not bad!
Step 1, the "out of the box" experience, is continued here: http://danalspub.com/2018/07/anycubic-kossel-linear-plus-to-duet3d-part-1/
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Hows your build coming along?
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Well, goofy me, I got it printing "out of the box" and I've been printing things requested by relatives...
Time to take it apart!!! Duet here we come!!!
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There is also a somewhat legit reason for the delay: I DID run into a couple of issues, one of which that I believe would completely stump a newbie, namely the Z-Probe being "backwards" to the firmware in terms of NO v.s. NC. I won't clutter the forum here. If interested, see: http://danalspub.com/2018/07/anycubic-kossel-linear-plus-to-duet3d-part-2-stock-gotchas/
More SOON.
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good luck
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Here are the instructions for physical wiring, including details of re-usable connectors vs. connectors that must be changed, vs. connectors that should be changed:
http://danalspub.com/2018/07/anycubic-kossel-linear-plus-to-duet3d-part-3-wiring/
Summary:
- Motor connectors are reusable.
- Endstop connectors MUST change from two-pin to three-pin (outer pins)
- Fan connectors can be reused, but probably should be replaced. Polarization is important.
- Fan 0 to Duet Fan 0, Fan 2 to Duet Fan 1
- Thermistor connectors can be reused.
- 12V power supply wires must be completely replaced.
And, Anycubic supplies "soldered ends" on the power supply wires, hot-end heater, bed heater, etc. Solder in a screw terminal is BAD NEWS. The solder will creep under the tension of the screw and get loose. This leads to heat, etc, etc.
I strongly recommend cutting every soldered end off. Ideally, replace with crimp-on bootlace connectors. If you can't do that, then twist the bare wire and put that in the screw terminal.
That's the extreme summary, details and photos on the blog above.
Here is one pic of everything wired EXCEPT the bed and power supply:
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So one thing I did with my anycubic kossel was to add standoff’s to the far end of the PCB so it would stand off the ground in perfect alignement with the extrusion. Additionally I also reused the extrusion mount for one corner screw and VHB double sided tape for the other side
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@bpislife said in Installing a Duet WiFi in an Anycubic Kossel Linear +:
So one thing I did with my anycubic kossel was to add standoff’s to the far end of the PCB so it would stand off the ground in perfect alignement with the extrusion. Additionally I also reused the extrusion mount for one corner screw and VHB double sided tape for the other side
Great ideas!
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Blog now updated for final wiring, initial power up, testing switches, and initial configuration.
Sub-set here:
- Connect the final wires
This includes the power supply (polarized), bed heater (not polarized), and bed thermistor(skinny white wires, not polarized).
- Power up, BE READY TO POWER DOWN if you see/hear/smell anything you don't like!
You should see the red and blue power lights along the edge furthest from the power connector. These lights will change as the board boots.
You should see at least three, and maybe four red lights between the motor connectors.
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Test the limit switches with your fingers. You should see the red light on the Duet board, between the motor connectors, that corresponds to a given switch going OFF when you click it. The light must stay ON when you release the switch.
Also, test the switch in the z-probe. Hook it up and press it with your finger. The fourth light on the board may go on or off, and may stay on or off when the switch is released. The important part for now is that it changes.
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Follow the "Getting Connected" and "Installing and updating firmware" instructions.
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Upload and install this initial configuration. Note: This is close, but IS NOT fully "calibrated".
It should be close enough to allow you to probe, calibrate, etc. More detailed instructions for final commissioning and calibration are coming soon.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is quite likely that my Z-Probe is logically backwards from the factory default. Long story.
If, when you probe the first time, the printer throws a bunch of "Probe already triggered... " error messages, then find
M558 P4 H5 F120 T6000in config.g and change it toM558 P4 H5 F120 T6000 I1.That is an "I" (eye) "1" (one).
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Awesome instructions so far.
Oh, how are you finding the rods, acceptable? -
@juice said in Installing a Duet WiFi in an Anycubic Kossel Linear +:
Awesome instructions so far.
Thank You!
Oh, how are you finding the rods, acceptable?
The stock rods and ball joints are OK. It produces fairly good prints overall. I just got the very first print from the Duet, same G-Code file I printed with the TriGorilla. Can't really tell any difference in print quality. Bottom is TriGorilla, top is Duet, "initial config", not yet tweaked. I believe the lines that do show are infill showing through the wall, that could be tuned out in the slicer, if desired. I don't see any visible ringing going around the corner.
From past experience, magnetic ball end rods do make a visible difference in print quality. I'll be upgrading to those sometime in the near future.
First though, I'm going to tweak the Duet config a little, and up the print speed.
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Great! When you do find a nice config that works well, feel free to share.
