@phaedrux I swapped the first ender last week from a probe, Was so easy . Hardest part is making the extention cable up. And we can all do them tiny crimps now lol. the Maestro and a version 3 just work so well.
@roaminginterests said in Converting Creality cr-10 s5 to Duet WiFI 24V:
. And yes the bed heating is for 12V, I would need to upgrade that part as well.
you could try limiting the duty cycle of the bed and use it as is - the downside is that in the event of a problem with the firmware the run away temperature would be unnecessarily high, but you can mitigate that by having a thermal cutoff which is a good idea anyway.
I used 40% triangle infill. I'm printing another pad for my wife's BMW and I bumped the infill up to 50%.
I'm not impressed by honeycomb or gyroid. Actually, I shouldn't say that. They are impressive to look at, and I'm sure they were quite challenging for the programmers who created them, but I don't find either very practical. If you want strong infill that prints fast, the grid and triangles patterns are the way to go. Both are composed of long, straight lines that print fast and don't shake the machine apart while they're printing.
@sungod3k I think that if you are going to make that comparison, then you need to compare the print quality using ball screws with the print quality using belts at the same speed and acceleration. With ball screws you have to slow things down, with belts you have the choice.
It's not for me to say which you should use - that is your choice. But in general terms, ball screws are used on industrial machinery which can have very large moving masses because belts would need to be too big. If you believe in the myth that timing belts stretch, then you could argue that ball screws don't suffer that problem. On the other hand, belts aren't probe to having issues with back lash which ball screws can be.
But hey, this is all part of the fun of this hobby. If you want to build a machine using ball screws, go for it. I'm sure it could be capable of producing good quality prints albeit a bit slower and noisier.
Single wall prints usually need to be printed very slowly to prevent the nozzle from dragging the plastic, especially around curves. How fast are you printing? Does 3D labs give any print recommendations?
@kostasbmw said in cura start gcode help:
ok i did that and the heater started heating nicely
but i need about 1 minute before starts printing(thats how much time i need to get noozle to 200)
is there a way to hold somehow the printing after bed heating + levelling so i have my noozle ready to desire temp???
Change the M109 command to use the first layer temperature, and remove the M104 command that is 2 lines later.
Currently its all printed (ABS/PETG)
waiting for a steel locations pins
and after finish all the beta - will cnc both plates
After that - duet per tool config offset
Currently its kind of loosy, BUT, because of that and the magnets - it fit exact the same position every time %-)
@dc42 : Ya, that was 50%, failed instantly, 60, 70... 100. Then I've realized that the problem is the same as I've had on X and Y: too much acceleration seen as stall. Didn't bother to put that back to a lower current because it works, but I've left the line there for others to tweak to their needs. On "M400", noted and added. Thanks!
@timcurtis67: I usually handle temperatures manually. Hotend is in slic3r, bed manually. This macro is done for when your hotend is already at temperature. The M302 P0 there for slow extrusion without stall detection is just as a precaution if you forgot to heat the extruder.
Maybe that part should also be under S1, I don't know. Put that on my printer today, based on a previous thread handled by @dc42.