@mk-none Hey man, do you happen to have a guide/parts list for everything? I have a mark one that is so bloody finnicky, and no one seems to want to buy it even for a thou, so now I'm looking into this setup..

@ofn13 why not? ideally you throw it all in a github repository to link to.

Only the good die young.

Can you be more specific about what isn't working correctly?

Perhaps you should start with a clean config file from the online tool.

https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Start

@giuseprap said in Z AXES DOUBLE SETUP:

M584 X0.0 Y0.0 Z0.2:0.4 E0.3
"for selecting the 2 and 3 driver for the z axes".
M574 Z1 S1 P"io3.in"
"for selecting the microswitch z for the two motors"

You have used output zero twice, I suspect Y should be 0.1

For two motors with separate limits, you need two inputs?
This is what I have (on a Duet 6HC):

M574 Z1 S1 P"io3.in+io4.in" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Z via pin io3.in

@oliof One thing occurred to me, which is that with such extreme melt rates, a huge amount of part cooling air is required to prevent the part from collapsing into a semi molten blob of nastiness. Inevitably, some of that cooling air gets deflected back onto the nozzle, which is not necessarily "seen" by the thermistor. It is possible that a CHT nozzle might react differently to that deflected part cooling air (either better or worse). We'll find out in due course.......

@thedragonlord
Sorry. Had been busy the last few days.
I use Prusa Slicer. There you can cut the STL and reunute it the size you need. One segment is 11.2mm wide.

I modified mine to 10 colors these days. Including it to my upsidedown Voron.
The Idea was to grant access to a Pilamentstorage underneth the printer.

You could try this paint, but instead of the method used in the film, thin the paint with paint thinner and spray it with a paint gun on the pcb. aliexpress has complete paintgun sets complete with compressor and tank for 125 US.

@chrishamm thanks, is there a way to drop a youtube video in here or can it only be a link?

Below is a picture of a nylon 6 print, works as well as a Multi-jet fusion part, maybe better. I think FDM has a lot of future, it was on the back-foot for a while but it still has a long way to go. (plenty of good refinements coming along) our latest print heads are making a big difference.

Nylon 6.jpg

@lael they’ve been great, and I only need two sets. They are also often used in food service to connect/disconnect fluids like soda syrup, beer taps, etc.

Like you said, it allows me to quick disconnect the hotend for whatever reason without any major disassembly, or if I want to locally drain it without emptying the entire loop.

@chris94 no problem. you're welcome.

IMG_20210710_144219_171.jpg !

Got some time to work on the printer , partially completed my enclosure , moved my spool behind the machine now

@o_lampe said in Request Cartesian with cyclops system: 2 extruders and 1 hotend:

Just out of curiosity, now that the drive mapping is added, would it still be necessary to have separate jerk-, acceleration-, etc- setting for the second extruder?
Is it even possible to have different settings?

Yes. Extruders are considered as independent axis and should have all settings defined for each extruder and those settings can be different.

For other axis like XYZ you only need a single value for that axis. You must use identical motors for axis with multiple motors and you cannot have different settings for each motor.

See the notes here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M584_Set_drive_mapping

All the time is overextrusion. Think i missed something in prusaslicer, swapped to ideamaker and quality is much better!

After that I started to checking everything, and when I was printing with infill less then 20% was ok. When increas infill getting worse. I changed infill overlap to 10% and infill flowrate to proper amount and now is perfect!

@Veti thanks that seems to have done it

How do you manage the tip when removing filament? I always have troubles... I'm working on such system but with 6 filaments.

@Slzer I found them on probably the same place as you found them, on Hackaday 😃
As far as I've seen it this kinematics prevents racking very well as the two belt paths constrains it.

@tracar

you have to save it manually in the config.g as it is written in the guide (as you have not enabled the M500 command for you config)

@engikeneer said in Help with Slic3r PE 2.2:

ou tried enabling 'support on

ey....

this is, thanks @engikeneer

So I took a sliced file and randomly chose 3 different points to calculate the steps per mm. The ratio is between 7.3 to 7.5 XY steps to E steps.. Don't think they're lining up too well in terms of pulses. Still have my doubts on what's causing this, as it seems to be the result of several things lining up to create it..

Okay, found a simple solution. Changed the following settings.

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Select New Ext & Warm:

From:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Warm Same Ext:

From:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Ah right! I'm using some of the colours for different functions such as completed prints, paused prints, cancelled prints etc. I'm not currently planning on using all of the colours though, but at least they're available for future use.

Would need to see a full sliced gcode file from each slicer to actually see what's different between them. Even when the settings are largely the same, they will still be different because they use different algorithms and techniques and have different options between them. But rest assured, once tuned, both can produce prints that would be basically identical from outward appearances.