Looks good! I like the electronics enclosure box.

@o_lampe said in Request Cartesian with cyclops system: 2 extruders and 1 hotend:

Just out of curiosity, now that the drive mapping is added, would it still be necessary to have separate jerk-, acceleration-, etc- setting for the second extruder?
Is it even possible to have different settings?

Yes. Extruders are considered as independent axis and should have all settings defined for each extruder and those settings can be different.

For other axis like XYZ you only need a single value for that axis. You must use identical motors for axis with multiple motors and you cannot have different settings for each motor.

See the notes here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode?revisionid=HEAD#Section_M584_Set_drive_mapping

All the time is overextrusion. Think i missed something in prusaslicer, swapped to ideamaker and quality is much better!

After that I started to checking everything, and when I was printing with infill less then 20% was ok. When increas infill getting worse. I changed infill overlap to 10% and infill flowrate to proper amount and now is perfect!

@Veti thanks that seems to have done it

How do you manage the tip when removing filament? I always have troubles... I'm working on such system but with 6 filaments.

@Slzer I found them on probably the same place as you found them, on Hackaday 😃
As far as I've seen it this kinematics prevents racking very well as the two belt paths constrains it.

@tracar

you have to save it manually in the config.g as it is written in the guide (as you have not enabled the M500 command for you config)

@engikeneer said in Help with Slic3r PE 2.2:

ou tried enabling 'support on

ey....

this is, thanks @engikeneer

So I took a sliced file and randomly chose 3 different points to calculate the steps per mm. The ratio is between 7.3 to 7.5 XY steps to E steps.. Don't think they're lining up too well in terms of pulses. Still have my doubts on what's causing this, as it seems to be the result of several things lining up to create it..

Okay, found a simple solution. Changed the following settings.

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Select New Ext & Warm:

From:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Head to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Under:

Profile settings - Printer G-code - Warm Same Ext:

From:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> F6000

To:
; Move to the start of the next path
G1 X<NEXTX> Y<NEXTY> Z50 F6000

Ah right! I'm using some of the colours for different functions such as completed prints, paused prints, cancelled prints etc. I'm not currently planning on using all of the colours though, but at least they're available for future use.

Would need to see a full sliced gcode file from each slicer to actually see what's different between them. Even when the settings are largely the same, they will still be different because they use different algorithms and techniques and have different options between them. But rest assured, once tuned, both can produce prints that would be basically identical from outward appearances.

Yes you could run a slicer on the pi, but it will be a bit slower than on your PC and I don't think it would solve any of your problems.

@jmjcoke Sweet!

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Using_mesh_bed_compensation

That's exactly what mesh compensation is good at.. compensating for.

the max retraction speed for the Dyze is 25mm/s , but i will try the other settings....i can always go higher than 25 but am sure will be clogging time

If you're trying to measure wall thickness for extruder calibration, try this method instead: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s165

Then if you want to measure dimensional accuracy, print a larger complete cube and measure total width on the sides and on the diagonals.

Glad you got it sorted

@Danal said in Is G Code file the same for delta and carthesian designs?:

incompatibility

alright, ill get to it then, thanks again!!

Wooo Hooo!

OP wrote 400nm, presumably 405 or 430nm. I've used 405.

I did read a blog with someone testing CO2 for stencils and his finding was basically the same as the above, lower the power and do multiple passes for good results. But CO2 lasers are just a tad more expensive than UV, and ultimately a tad more powerful for other things as well.

I didn't think much about the above image other than to say "someone got UV working" but presumaby by KERS they meant kerf, which would limit the smallest feature and not actually have much to do with cut quality as presented. (But if you're pushing UV lasers I guess its convenient).