Part 5 is now available and covers some upgrade options, including swapping the lead screw, adding a BLTouch, adding a buck converter for 12v accessories, adding LED lighting, swapping out the fans, etc.
Just out of curiosity, now that the drive mapping is added, would it still be necessary to have separate jerk-, acceleration-, etc- setting for the second extruder?
Is it even possible to have different settings?
Yes. Extruders are considered as independent axis and should have all settings defined for each extruder and those settings can be different.
For other axis like XYZ you only need a single value for that axis. You must use identical motors for axis with multiple motors and you cannot have different settings for each motor.
All the time is overextrusion. Think i missed something in prusaslicer, swapped to ideamaker and quality is much better!
After that I started to checking everything, and when I was printing with infill less then 20% was ok. When increas infill getting worse. I changed infill overlap to 10% and infill flowrate to proper amount and now is perfect!
So I took a sliced file and randomly chose 3 different points to calculate the steps per mm. The ratio is between 7.3 to 7.5 XY steps to E steps.. Don't think they're lining up too well in terms of pulses. Still have my doubts on what's causing this, as it seems to be the result of several things lining up to create it..
Ah right! I'm using some of the colours for different functions such as completed prints, paused prints, cancelled prints etc. I'm not currently planning on using all of the colours though, but at least they're available for future use.
Would need to see a full sliced gcode file from each slicer to actually see what's different between them. Even when the settings are largely the same, they will still be different because they use different algorithms and techniques and have different options between them. But rest assured, once tuned, both can produce prints that would be basically identical from outward appearances.
OP wrote 400nm, presumably 405 or 430nm. I've used 405.
I did read a blog with someone testing CO2 for stencils and his finding was basically the same as the above, lower the power and do multiple passes for good results. But CO2 lasers are just a tad more expensive than UV, and ultimately a tad more powerful for other things as well.
I didn't think much about the above image other than to say "someone got UV working" but presumaby by KERS they meant kerf, which would limit the smallest feature and not actually have much to do with cut quality as presented. (But if you're pushing UV lasers I guess its convenient).