As an aside, I haven't yet thrown out those test parts because I want to devise some method of testing their relative strengths. I'd have thought the layer boundaries would be the weak points. I also suspect that higher speeds might lead to stronger parts. My reasoning is that at higher speeds the volume flow rate is higher, and layer times are lower. Therefore, the previous layer will not have cooled so much so the next layer should fuse to it better (maybe). Anyway, I'm open to suggestions as to how best to test that - given the resources I have available (like a big hammers and vices) I could crush them in a vice and measure the distance between the vice jaws at the point where they break. Not very scientific but it might provide some sort of comparative data.
@wilriker said in CoreXYUV with dynamic load\force balancing.:
@deckingman said in CoreXYUV with dynamic load\force balancing.:
Is that white Transit van parked down the road not what it seems?
Depends on what it seems to be. If it seems to be a surveillance van than everything is right.
Dunno. It's got blacked out windows and is bristling with aerials. There is a satellite dish on top too. I guess the occupants are just watching TV. That would explain the blacked out windows. Oh good, I can relax.......
We ought to end this here. Much as I like the fun, this isn't really the place...
Not much! The WorkBee is now changed to an 800W air cooled spindle bought on AliExpress and I have also added a 4th Axis that I install only when needed.
The steppers are NEMA 23 rated for 3A, 345oz*in. They are way stronger than what the WorkBee would need.
The 3A steppers are handled very well by the Duet drivers when using a 24V PSU, much better than the GRBL+DRV8825 combo I have initially used (left over from previous CNC, until the Duet had enough CNC capabilities!). Using some higher voltage capable drivers might help getting higher RPMs but the lead screws are normally limited around 300RPM to avoid melting the Delrin nuts. With the OpenBuilds "standard" lead screws that gives 2500mm/s. For my needs that is quite enough, though I consider some times beefing up the mechanics a little bit (at 8mm thickness the lead screws a little wobbly) - but I need to find enough spare time for finding a solution.
So are you saying that you want to turn all the fans off when you pause, not just the print cooling fan (which is turned on automatically when you resume the print)? If so then the simplest option is to configure the other fans for thermostatic control, then they will only be on when needed.
You could also turn the printer off completely after pausing it (wait for the hot end to cool down before you turn the hot end fan off) and then use the resurrection facility, if you configure it first. In the last several firmware versions, the resurrect.g file is created automatically whenever you pause the print. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Setting_up_to_resume_a_print_after_a_power_failure.
@bellwether said in Simplify3d firmware configuration file:
What about controlling part cooling fans?
By default, Simplify3D will use M106, which Duet accepts. So everything under the "cooling" tab "just works"
Do you need it to do something else?
File tfree1.g will be called when tool 1 is freed, tpre1.g will be called just before tool 1 is activated, and tpost1.g will be called just after tool 1 has been activated. Similarly for any other tool numbers you create.
@giuseppe said in Problema di configurazione wifi:
Grazie a tutti
Sadly I don't understand Italian (just some French and German and a few words of Dutch, Spanish and Hungarian), but I think the jist is that it is working now.
Until you have a Z probe, you can set the Z probe type to 0 in the M558 command (M558 P0). Then you can run delta calibration as normal (see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer)) and the web interface will prompt you. If you just want to establish an accurate Z=0 height before printing, position the nozzle over the centre of the bed and send G30.
There's a good case to be made for electronics at the top and PSU at the bottom. It keeps all the mains voltage wiring out of the way when you are messing around with the electronics, and saves running mains voltage wires up to the top.
Agreed, that is a nice balance.
And/or split the difference. I do have PSU on top on this particular printer, and therefore mains wiring… at the same time, this will have a heated bed, with the heater using mains wiring, and that will be via a SSR and separate mains plug, all at the bottom. So a little of each.
In any event, ALWAYS earth (ground for Yanks) the frame on an all-metal printer.
I dont use mesh bed leveling (G29), I only do the calibration (G32) because my bed is leveled (I removed the springs and replaced them with TPU feet).
M671 indicates the location of my Z leadscrews when my bed is located at 0,0 and they are slightly off-center:
M671 X-55:255 Y170:170 S1.5 // one leadscrew is located at -55,170, other leadscrew is located at 255,170
```In fact, the Y coordinates for 2 point leveling don't really matter as long as they are the same
The probing points are defined in bed.g:
G28 ; home
G30 P0 X40 Y150 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew
G30 P1 X160 Y150 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors
If anyone is looking for a Rostock Max V3 that has already been upgraded with a Duet Wifi controller and many other upgrades, you can find one right now on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/142502541362?
Anyone know where that panelduo encasing is available? Can we share the stl?
It has to be the velour. The other stuff just melted against the hot end / hot filament. Shame, as I quite fancied some of the textured leather! Mind, I wonder what real leather would be like… I think there are many other possibilities for exploring textured beds.
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