effector tilting into bed on print
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24% in. It looks like the nozzle is trenching the model. Over extrusion?
At 25% printed, height on the browser screen says it is at 5mm. Rough measurement says it might be 1mm higher for the actual model. The model is starting to rock back and forth on the tape it's printing on.
When I changed the XYZ steps /mm to 100, I did not recalibrate the filament extruder. Should I do that?
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The extruder calibration is not affected by the XYZ steps/mm, however if you haven't already calibrated the extruder then I recommend that you do.
What infill percentage did you use when you sliced the model?
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I did calibrate the extruder for 100mm and it was dead on. Print quality is set for medium.
Interior Fill Percentage = 90%
Outline Overlap = 15%
Infill Extrusion Width 100%
Minimum Infill Length 5.0 mm
Combine Infill Every = 1 layers -
Turn the interior fill percentage down a lot. 15 to 30% is commonly used. If necessary, turn down the extrusion factor.
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Hi:
I have a complete configuration cube!
Z=18.2 width x 20 height
Y=20 width x 18.2 height
X=18.2 width x 18.2 heightI want to print fan_duct_40mmv2_fixed to put on the smart effector. It loads into S3d as X160.67, Y59.62 and Z33.29
I don't think those are correct dimensions and it says the scale is 2540.00%. S3D says it is too large to auto position when I click center and arrange. I have tried changing scaling in the past which usually results in a visible model with 0 file size and therefore doesn't print and object.
I've pulled v3 off thingiverse.
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How do I fix the widths that are coming in at 18.2mm?
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Check that you have entered the correct L parameter in the M665 command in config.g. It should be the length of the errors measured between bearing centres.
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To make small corrections to the X and Y scaling use the M579 command. But I suggest you use a larger calibration object for that.
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Thanks dc42.
The L parameter has not been changed throughout all that we have done. On four of the rods, it is 360.20. The other two rods are 360.21. Would it be better to have the two rods that are 360.21 on the same carriage?, or to place them opposite each other?
I will look into the M579 command. I am printing the cooling fan holder (V1) for the heated bed and I need the accuracy for the screw holes.
Thanks,
Tim -
It's best to have those two rods on the same carriage - although with such a small difference, it probably doesn't matter.
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Thanks. That was my thought so that is what I did.
My cooling fan for the hot end stopped during a print yesterday. (I hate crimp connectors.) Fan is fine, lost power. I didn't notice until the filament extruder started clicking and then I saw that no filament was being laid down.
I would rather not drill it out because I would likely damage / destroy the plastic tube. If I put the cooling fin assembly in boiling water, would the filament melt and flow out (or push out) of the tube?
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If it's PLA then with the nozzle at 100C, the heatsink cool and the Bowden tube removed, you should be able to pull the filament out of the hot end the way it went in, if it hasn't broken off already.
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Thanks, I will file that for the future. The filament broke just inside the tube when I was trying to remove it while I still had heat on. I don't have enough space around the filament to grab it with anything.
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I'm back up and running. I had a really decent filament coil inside the hotend before it got into the tube. Obviously, one cannot run a printer without a functioning cooling fan.
The X adjustment for the M579 worked out to 1.0185. Not only did that fix the spacing for the screw holes, it improved the printer quality in the corners.
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For my purposes, I consider this thread complete with very high satifaction!
Thanks
Tim -
Thank you!
