Voltage Regulator issue, 24V to 12V
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In the past it the hotend would be fully on until it got close to the temperature and then PWM would kick in based on the PI'd curve.
Dc42 recently added the thermal modelling code which I have not investigated yet (it just worked! :)). I am not sure if this changes the behaviour of the PWM further out from achieving the desired temperature.
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I soo would not go with a buck regulator on the switched hot end, if it was in bang bang mode..maybe but not PID and PWM regulated, even if it's fast bang bang I wouldn't do it. The only correct way would be to have enough input capacitance as to smooth out the PWM and then you loose the LED flashing. A resistor isn't going to get all that warm especially considering it appears the indicator system already has dropper resistors in place for the 12v system. So really just need to limit the current enough so the 24v looks like 12v. A linear regulator say an 78L12 probably would do the trick better then the buck regulator.
Jeff
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Thanks, I'm tinkering with resistors now, but note that even <100 Ohm doesn't result in the LEDs lighting. I put a multimeter across the hotend wires and it showed ~-8V, not 24
I suppose this is something to do with the PWM on the hotend.I'm going to try using a resistor from the hotend 24V supply and using the ground wire for the hotend fan (which I have as not using PWM), see if that works. I have other applications in my printer for the buck regulator, so nothing will be wasted.
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Thanks, I'm tinkering with resistors now, but note that even <100 Ohm doesn't result in the LEDs lighting. I put a multimeter across the hotend wires and it showed ~-8V, not 24
I suppose this is something to do with the PWM on the hotend.I'm going to try using a resistor from the hotend 24V supply and using the ground wire for the hotend fan (which I have as not using PWM), see if that works. I have other applications in my printer for the buck regulator, so nothing will be wasted.
Wow, my apologies on being so far out on calculations. It sounds like the bed heating indicator has some good voltage drop already via the resistors onboard. If you did surface mount soldering you could just change those resistors out with higher values making it a 24v unit instead of 12v. You could try a linear regulator as well such as an LM78L12 or LM7812, They will react much better to the PWM.
Jeff
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Something isn't right. Unless they are VERY high power LEDs or long LED strips, I would expect them to light up using a 100 ohm series resistor and 24V supply. Although the resistor would quickly get hot and perhaps burn out unless it is rated for ~2W or greater power dissipation.
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Something isn't right. Unless they are VERY high power LEDs or long LED strips, I would expect them to light up using a 100 ohm series resistor and 24V supply. Although the resistor would quickly get hot and perhaps burn out unless it is rated for ~2W or greater power dissipation.
It looks to me like the device is just 3 LED's with some limiting resistors, makes no sense to me either. The PWM unless it's at a really low duty cycle should be easily lighting up the LED's.
Jeff
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Are you sure the LEDs still work if you connect them to a 12V supply?
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If you are going to apply pwm to a 12v device running from a 24v to 12v converter then run the converter input positive from the 24v positive eg the hot end heater output or pwm fan output, then the converter input negative to the psu negative. Then send the converter output positive to the 12v device and then ground the device to the 24v negative pin of the connector your using ie hot end heater or pwm fan. This way the converter gets permanent 24v but the output can be pulsed to achieve dimming for leds or temperature regulation.
For leds or multiple 12v fans wire them in series, that's the easiest option.
You need a decent sized converter for a hot end heater 5A capable.
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Are you sure the LEDs still work if you connect them to a 12V supply?
Yep, checked a couple of times, worked my way down from >8kOhm to 100Ohm, no light, but the LED array worked after, so it's not like a bunch of current got through and cooked it during my tests. I'll try again from high resistance values but using a different ground connection, maybe the hotend fan.
The hotend is working nicely as a hotend, which is the most important thing. The hotend LED array is ultimately just bling, so if things get too hard I'll put it in a box somewhere and use it for a later project.
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Try connecting it with the series resistor direct to the 24V supply while you experiment with the resistor value. I suggest you start with about 500 ohms.
