Halt or Fault state stopping print
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Hey guys hope someone has an idea what is going on here. I got the printer running good and did a few 4+ hour prints and now it will not print more than 10-20 minutes without stopping on a fault. Under heater 1 it says Fault and the whole print stops. I have checked the thermistor and it checks out around 100k at room temp.
Anyone know what else might cause this?
Is there an error log or something that gets generated?Edit: I just noticed under the G-Code console it says this. "Error: heating fault on heater 1, temperature rising much more slowly than the expected 0.7°C/sec"
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So I figured out what the problem was. It is the part cooling fan. The fan was coming on at 100% on the 5th layer and causing the hotend to cool down and was having a hard time leveling back out. I set the fan to increase slowly over 150 layers before it is on full. Now the heater is able to stabilize much easier.
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I had that problem before when the fan nozzle was hitting the print head nozzle. It should hit the print , not the bed or nozzle/hotend. Not always an easy task.
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One fix: run the auto-tuning with the part fan running at 100%.
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Not sure what happened here but I had a print running for the past 4 or so hours and it started clogging again so I paused the print to figure out what the issue was. Temps were fine so I thought it just hit a bad spot in the filament so I started to clean it out using a nozzle cleaning tool. Cleared the clog and started printing again about 5 minutes later it faults and stops printing. I reset the machine and now NONE of my thermistors are registering temps, not even the heated bed which was not even in use at the time.
I am completely at a loss as what to do now.
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If all thermistors are reading open circuit, this usually means that the VSSA fuse has blown. The normal cause is a short between a thermistor input and a heater or fan output. This is a surprisingly common occurrence, which is why we added the fuse to protect the board in general and the processor in particular.
Things to check:
- Is there a short in the hot end wiring?
- Is there a short between one of the thermistor wires and the hot end metalwork? These shorts are quite common on hot ends that use a wire-ended thermistor pushed into a hole.
- Does the cartridge heater still have a high resistance between the heater terminals and the casing? Cartridge heaters sometimes develop shorts.
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Just checked the thermistor and heaterblock and there is continuity between one line of the thermistor and the block. I pulled the thermistor out and the fiberglass sleeve is completely worn away and frayed. I be that is what has caused the problem and hope this didn't just burn up my board. =(
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@cdl1701@yahoo.com:
Just checked the thermistor and heaterblock and there is continuity between one line of the thermistor and the block. I pulled the thermistor out and the fiberglass sleeve is completely worn away and frayed. I be that is what has caused the problem and hope this didn't just burn up my board. =(
The fuse is there to prevent the board burning up, so the board should be OK if you replace the fuse. I recommend you replace the heater cartridge too because it probably has a short to the case, unless you can identify a short between the hot end wiring and the hot end metalwork.
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I just checked the F1 fuse for continuity and nothing. Got some new ones on order.
Thank you Thank you for adding this fuse. Now I think I know why my smoothieboards stopped working. =( A fuse protecting these just makes so much sense.For future revisions is it possible to replace this tiny fuse with something that is more easily replaced?
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So I got the new fuse soldered on and checked it with a multimeter for continuity and all was good. Reinstalled the board and turned everything on and still not getting temp readings just error. The thermistors check out as good.
Any other suggestions? Have only had it for a week now. -
Have you checked continuity between VSSA and ground again, in case a fault is still present andchas blown the fuse again?
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All is good now and back to printing. What Happened was when I was checking the continuity after it was on the board I was touching the top side of the fuse ends instead of just the soldered portion. The solder was not making contact with the tin surface on the fuse. These fuses are sooo small it is hard to see what I am doing but it looks like the fuse is made of glass? Or is at least transparent and the two side ends are not tinned so I was not able to get the solder to work its way up to the top and was not sticking to the contacts on the fuse.
What I did was ended up flipping the fuse over so the tinned sides are down which looks funny but maybe that is the way it is supposed to work? Anyway I bought 5 of them and they are all the same. Lost two while working.. Holy cow those things are small!
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Yes the metal contacts are supposed to be underneath. I have put some part numbers for alternative fuses on the wiki now, which have metal end caps so they are easier to solder.
