Heater tuning, with our without fans on?



  • So, I have a high-temp hot-end. Nickel plated copper block, E3D Nozzle X. Both of these are extremely slick and filament doesn't stick to them. I also have fantastic cooling that blows right at the nozzle. If I have my fans blowing, I can't reach 280 unless there is a silicone sock on the heater block. I can't even maintain temp if I bring it up to 280 and then turn on the fans. It can't maintain 215 if the fans turn on to full instantly. I have to baby sit it and gently raise the fans until they reach about 90%, and then it slowly, gently, tip-toes up to 215 over about 5 minutes.

    I'd prefer to not use the sock because filament does stick to it. But what is the right calibration? Sock off and without the fans? Sock off and fans on half blast? . Yet, when I tune the heater, I ironically get this warning message

    Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 470C.

    Maybe my fluid dynamic estimation has more air blowing on the block than I thought.

    0_1550976937188_IMG_20190223_185354.jpg

    I am printing some new ducts that extend further to focus more of the air below the heater block.



  • Maybe it's the angle of the photo but that looks like a worst case scenario for blowing on the heater block.

    I'd say the silicone sock is probably your best bet. Then tune it with the sock on and your fan running at the same speeds it's likely to run during printing.

    And that warning is just telling you that if the heater failed on, based on the estimates it got from tuning (which may be skewed by the air blowing on it) that's the temp it would reach.



  • @phaedrux the angle is a little misleading, regardless, I'm printing new ones that bring the outlet closer to the nozzle, below the block.

    I know what the warning is, I just thought it was funny to get that while struggling the reach temp.

    It also doesn't help that the block is copper. It's literally a heat sink.


 

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