Parts Fan won't turn on during print



  • @deckingman - Formatting error strikes again! I had BOLDED it and forgot that it doesn't work right sometimes ... like after a colon. I wrote what you wrote. Thx!

    Who knows what THAT command would do. Detach second stage or something... (Hotend flies across room ... Zing ...)

    Edit: the S parameter was configured by RRF Config Tool. I agree and will remove it.

    I'm marking this solved, will post separately about hiding the second fan control. Thanks to all!! ☺



  • @puterpro Ah yes. Seems these forums sometimes work like predictive text or auto correct and change something that is perfectly legitimate into something that isn't. I think it's some sort of artificial intelligence that gets bored and just tries to introduce typo's in order to pass the time. I have a theory that "smart phones" deliberately do things like that in order to make users look stupid. That's my excuse anyway......☺



  • @deckingman said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    The "S" parameter would normally fix the speed but I'm unsure how it would interact with the T parameters.

    If a temperature range is specified via Taaa:bbb then Snnn acts as the speed it starts with at temperature aaa, i.e. in the above configuration that means that at 45°C the fan will start at 30% speed and ramp up to 100% on its way to 250°C. is ignored.



  • @wilriker said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    If a temperature range is specified via Taaa:bbb then Snnn ................. is ignored.

    That's what I assumed and hoped would be the case.



  • @deckingman I had to check in the source code after I wrote it. 😁

    But any Lnnn parameter (default 10%) is still honored. So if you want your fan to turn on with a specific speed at the lower end of the temperature range use Lnnn to achieve that.



  • @wilriker said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    @deckingman I had to check in the source code after I wrote it. 😁

    But any Lnnn parameter (default 10%) is still honored. So if you want your fan to turn on with a specific speed at the lower end of the temperature range use Lnnn to achieve that.

    Which is in fact exactly what I do with my hot end fan.

    M106 P1 S255 I0 F250 L125 H1 T60:140

    It's mostly for when the hot end cools down which takes a lot longer than when it is heating. Without the "L" parameter, the fan runs slower and slower and slower as the temperature drops but the slower it runs, the longer it takes the hot end to cool. So it seems to take forever before the fan actually turns off completely and at low PWM values, it makes an annoying buzzing noise. With the "L" parameter, the fan speed drops to about 50% at around 100 deg C but maintains that speed until the hot end cools below 60, at which point it turns off completely. The net result is that the hot end cools faster and the (annoying) fan turns off sooner.

    It works well for me anyway.



  • @deckingman said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    The net result is that the hot end cools faster and the (annoying) fan turns off sooner.

    That's the reason why I only use the most silent fans I can find. I remember the original Anet A8 hotend cooling fan. It was always on when the machine was powered with no way to turn it off - and it was ridiculously loud and noisy. Seriously it was not possible to talk with normal voice next to it. Replaced it as soon as possible with an inaudible fan and it was so... silent. Turning at 100% all the time and I was only able to hear it with my ear about 5cm away from it. Wonderful. 🙂



  • @wilriker said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    That's the reason why I only use the most silent fans I can find.

    Unfortunately that's not possible with a Diamond hot end because it needs seriously high air flow blowing over the 3 heat sinks. It's hard enough find a fan with sufficient air flow, let alone trying to find one that's quiet. The 5 colour is even worse.

    Hence the reason that thing I'm working on (but which shall remain nameless), is water cooled. ☺



  • @deckingman

    Phones can be EVIL! I still love my Note 8 tho' ...

    M106 P1 S255 I0 F250 L125 H1 T60:140

    That's an interesting approach on the hotend. I like the thought, stealing it with a little mod. 😛

    Hence the reason that thing I'm working on (but which shall remain nameless), is water cooled

    Now you're talking SERIOUS mods. E3D's Aqua had me looking hard. But first I need to build an enclosure which isn't practical in my current location. Diamond HE, eh? Do you get a lot of clogs? That fan must sound like a 747!

    =============

    @wilriker

    That's the reason why I only use the most silent fans I can find

    I'm with you, I have 40mm Noctua on my hotend.

    On my previous CR-10S control box I pulled all the fans (they had 3) replaced the bottom panel with a 120mm Noctua. It was virtually silent with 3x the cooling.
    Still working out the mounting on my Maestro, it's currently breadboard stage ...



  • @puterpro said in Parts Fan won't turn on during print:

    @deckingman
    Diamond HE, eh? Do you get a lot of clogs? That fan must sound like a 747!

    I've done an awful lot of work on "taming" the 5 colour Diamond - see my blog https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/2017/10/23/the-diamond-5-colour-part-3-finally-tamed/

    No clogs now but that's after a lot of work re-designing fan ducts and increasing the fan size from 50mm to 60mm in order to get the requisite air flow. 27 cfm is sufficient and the current fan I use for that is rated at 39dBa so not too bad. During my experiments, I had one fan that was rated at 66dBa. That one sounded like Concord (much louder than 747) ☺


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